Veloci speed glass; Barnett
Moderator: Excalibur Marketing Dude
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caucious clay
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Thu Dec 08, 2005 7:24 pm
Veloci speed glass; Barnett
hey you guy's. I'm new here so Ya'll Please bear with me. I just want to say I'm computer illeterite, but I love to hunt and fish,andIlove reading the post here. I have a barnett crossbow now but I think I want an excalibur. the barnett shoot's all over. veloci speed glass is all I can tell about the model. Any input from some of you guy's would be greatly appreciated. keep up the good work fellows.
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hatchet jack
- Posts: 451
- Joined: Thu May 05, 2005 12:49 pm
- Location: topeka kansas
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hatchet jack
- Posts: 451
- Joined: Thu May 05, 2005 12:49 pm
- Location: topeka kansas
Barnett sold me the same prod you have. It was used to replace the broken prod in my old originial Wildcat. 150lb. pull---kind of slow by todays xbows, but still brings me meat. Good for about 25 feet, but still takes one to disable a deer, and another shot to end it without hearing it bawl and watching it kick around. I have never had a through and through shot with the thing. Seems like when it hits a rib, it follows the rib into the backbone. Just not enough power to break through the bone.
My Wildcat calls for a 16" bolt, but I found the bolts shoot lots straighter if I use about a 22" with a couple of fletches glued straight. I discovered that the regular spin most folks have on the arrows seem to cause a wobble during flight, and a straight non spinning bolt works better, for me at least. I use 2 fletches, and not 3. That one in the groove seems to cause problems.
I used wooden wedges to insure my string was square with the deck. If your string is not square with the deck, your bolts will fly erratic. I also used wedges to get my string to center on the bolt----just a fuzz above the deck. I can slide a very thin piece of metal between the string and the deck----about the thickness of a piece of notebook paper. I suppose we all have different ideas on those thoughts, but I (after 20 years or better) have choosen to tune my xbow this way, or shall I say my xbow has tuned me.
I have also learned that I need a 2219 size bolt. The lighter arrows/bolts will bend and flex when that string pushes. When my eyes were young, I could watch the bolt bend upon take-off, and watch them wobble during flight. Lots of folks laugh at the little 150lb. pull, but it has brought in meat every year for the past 20 some seasons. I have also learned that a 3 bladed 100grain broadhead works best for me. It planes(likes to float a bit) but not nearly as much as the 4 blade or 2 blade broad head. I am sure you will recieve different thoughts on this also. I just aim a little lower than where I wish the strike.
I believe I will eventually upgrade to an Excalibur, but there are things I wish to have changed on my personal weapon. I dont like the string gliding upon the deck. I dont want alot of weight either. It has been seen since medieval times that the shorter snap, the quicker the bolt flies. If your very carefull, you can cut an inch off both ends of that prod, tie a couple of knots in each end of your string to take up the slack, and you will increase your bolt speed from 220fps to nearly 300. I dont recommend you do that. Dont follow me, I will lead you astray.
Good luck with your toy, or tool. Depends on how you use it, and what you use it for. Even with my modifications, my Barnett has never had a pass through shot. I would not hunt a bear with it. Im thinking Excalibur has better ideas. Then again, so did Ford.
The car leaf spring off your truck makes a very nice prod. Very difficult to cock.
My Wildcat calls for a 16" bolt, but I found the bolts shoot lots straighter if I use about a 22" with a couple of fletches glued straight. I discovered that the regular spin most folks have on the arrows seem to cause a wobble during flight, and a straight non spinning bolt works better, for me at least. I use 2 fletches, and not 3. That one in the groove seems to cause problems.
I used wooden wedges to insure my string was square with the deck. If your string is not square with the deck, your bolts will fly erratic. I also used wedges to get my string to center on the bolt----just a fuzz above the deck. I can slide a very thin piece of metal between the string and the deck----about the thickness of a piece of notebook paper. I suppose we all have different ideas on those thoughts, but I (after 20 years or better) have choosen to tune my xbow this way, or shall I say my xbow has tuned me.
I have also learned that I need a 2219 size bolt. The lighter arrows/bolts will bend and flex when that string pushes. When my eyes were young, I could watch the bolt bend upon take-off, and watch them wobble during flight. Lots of folks laugh at the little 150lb. pull, but it has brought in meat every year for the past 20 some seasons. I have also learned that a 3 bladed 100grain broadhead works best for me. It planes(likes to float a bit) but not nearly as much as the 4 blade or 2 blade broad head. I am sure you will recieve different thoughts on this also. I just aim a little lower than where I wish the strike.
I believe I will eventually upgrade to an Excalibur, but there are things I wish to have changed on my personal weapon. I dont like the string gliding upon the deck. I dont want alot of weight either. It has been seen since medieval times that the shorter snap, the quicker the bolt flies. If your very carefull, you can cut an inch off both ends of that prod, tie a couple of knots in each end of your string to take up the slack, and you will increase your bolt speed from 220fps to nearly 300. I dont recommend you do that. Dont follow me, I will lead you astray.
Good luck with your toy, or tool. Depends on how you use it, and what you use it for. Even with my modifications, my Barnett has never had a pass through shot. I would not hunt a bear with it. Im thinking Excalibur has better ideas. Then again, so did Ford.
The car leaf spring off your truck makes a very nice prod. Very difficult to cock.