Broadhead tuning with my Phoenix

[ruttinbuck]

Enlighten me if you can on what guys hated about the 4 blade muzzys.

I'm not sure what anyone would have against any particular brand name of hunting head.

I don't care for 4 blade hunting heads of any kind including the very trendy Slick Trick. The reason is the difficulty involved with sharpening the head while it is attached to the shaft. I want a hunting arrow I can touch up in less than five minutes without taking it apart.

I shoot both reusable and disposable hunting heads. The reusable heads are made out of steel. They're almost indestructible and will last until you lose them. Disposable hunting heads that use replaceable blades are just that. Rarely have I taken two or more deer with the same head.

Replacing the blades on these disposable heads won't help.

Thanks for the input.I can see where the fixed or reusable heads would easier to maintain and durability would go without saying.These muzzys should do the trick until I get more advanced and into the game.I have a lansky sharpening setup that I think I will try with the blades apart.From what I have read today I have some homework to do.The FOC idea does'nt sound that foreign I just need to figure it out on my bolts and see if changing it will improve my accuracy.
Thanks for all the comments guys.RB

[Northern]

FOC calculator.

http://home.att.net/~sajackson/archery9.html

http://home.att.net/~sajackson/foc.html

[ruttinbuck]

I just tried the FOC calculator Northern linked up,thanks Northern.
It tells me my bolts {gold tip laser 2} and muzzy 100gr bheads have an FOC of 6.8%.I am going to shoot them more before coming to a final conclusion.It does look like I am either going to need heavier bheads,heavier front inserts or lighter rear inserts to increas that front of center.The vane change is not being considered as of now.Just don't have enough arrow time to tackle that aspect yet.RB

[ruttinbuck]

Just brain storming this FOC subject.
Would putting an O ring behind my bhead help.I would be increasing the front end weight and increasing the bolt length.I know it is not going to take alot to bring the FOC up enough.I think I am heading in the right direction.RB

[Normous]

Just brain storming this FOC subject.
Would putting an O ring behind my bhead help.I would be increasing the front end weight and increasing the bolt length.I know it is not going to take alot to bring the FOC up enough.I think I am heading in the right direction.RB

Something I do is cut the remove the rear insert and cut it in half to increase FOC. Also, I will remove the front insert and add a 20-30 gr set screw to the rear of the aluminum insert. Loctite it in. This gives me the FOC I prefer without adding a much heavier brass insert.

[ruttinbuck]

Something I do is cut the remove the rear insert and cut it in half to increase FOC. Also, I will remove the front insert and add a 20-30 gr set screw to the rear of the aluminum insert. Loctite it in. This gives me the FOC I prefer without adding a much heavier brass insert.

How does one go about removing an insert on a carbon bolt?

[Normous]

Screw in a field point and heat the point with a small portable torch or candle (slower). Use pliers to twist and pull out the insert. All glue from the insert can be removed using the torch and a rag if you are reusing them. Wear gloves to prevent burns.

[ruttinbuck]

It's important to remember F.O.C. isn't a critical value. As long as you have enough, you're all set. Insufficient F.O.C. will cause erratic arrow flight with scattered open groups. Too much F.O.C. will cause premature arrow drop but very repeatable and extremely stable arrow flight.

As long as you're in the "window" (near 15%) you're good to go.

I see that FOC is'nt the end all,rather part of the picture.However I am a accuaracy nut when it comes to any shooting tools and with the groups my phoenix is capable of at 40yds with fieldtips.I expect those kinda results with bheads as well.At 6.8% I know it won't take much for tuning to bring the FOC into line.I think the easiest most consistent change might be cutting down the rear insert to the same length{same weight}.This should move my balance point forward increasing my FOC.RB

[ruttinbuck]

Enormous when you add the set screw to the front insert,is it threaded in and glued?If so the bhead will thread in above it?RB

[Normous]

My aluminum GT II inserts are theaded all the way through. In the rear of the front insert I glue/loctite a small 8/32" allen bolt or set screw . I seat and adhere them about an 1/8" deep into the rear of the front insert. This setting still leaves plenty of room for any broadhead to thread into the front.
I can find these set screws/allen bolts at work in various lengths between 1/4"-3/4". Weights of those vary from 20gr-45gr, in 5 grain increments. So I can customize the weights of my shafts so to speak.
A small grain scale helps keep the rear inserts uniform in weight if you decide to shorten them. Some sandpaper will help do this last step. Some rear inserts I have cut down to 1/4" or so without any problem, even out of the fast moving Max/Equinox.
My preference is a lighter/faster arrow, designed with a decent FOC by removing rear weight and shifting it to the front , and then some.

[Northern]

Brass washers. 5 grains each.
http://www.3riversarchery.com/product.asp?i=5208X
Darrin

[ruttinbuck]

I just spent some time over at the Gold tip arrow site.I used their FOC calculator and the info they provide IE:weights of inserts vanes grain per inch of bolt.
Using their calculator I came up with 15.2% FOC on mu bolt set up.
So I am going to do some shooting and see just how good I can get these muzzys to fly before going any further.I just might be at the grail already with these bolts.Thanks for all the input,I might get out this weekend for a session.RB

[ruttinbuck]

I hear ya.The more I read,the more I realize you can chase perfection round and round."I read it on the internet so it must be true"
Time to do some shooting and see where I end up.thx for your input RB.