Flu/Flu arrows

lp3 · Post by **lp3** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 1:20 pm

O/K,here i go again,now all you old timmers dont laugh your head off. Do they make Flu/Flu arrows for cross bows??????? Reason: iam losing to many arrows,going thur these RATS and arrow gone. Iam hunting from the ground and iam killing them:but i think my arrows are going to the great hunting ground. Thanks P/S MERRY XMAS TO ALL

ecoaster · Post by **ecoaster** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 2:51 pm

For turkeys I use an arrow arrestor on the shaft, just behind the broadhead. It's made by Swickey. Here is a link:

http://www.3riversarchery.com/Product.a ... 86&i=4205X

DMc · Post by **DMc** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 4:51 pm

I'm not laughing. I wished someone would put half as much effort into designing a flu-flu arrow that would work with a crossbow as the effort they have put into new whiz-bang broadheads.

The crossbow with its high-speed, low weight arrows should be a superb candidate for a fast deceleration gizmo. Something as accurate as the Excaliburs is just screaming to be used on small game.

Blunts by themselves without some sort of deceleration attachment just blow right through small game without even slowing down. Gets kind of pricey if you want to knock off a half dozen squirrels and it requires a half dozen arrows.

So let's everybody put their thinking caps on...we should be able to think this thing out. Crossbows have been shot for thousands of years, it's about time SOMEBODY develops a flu-flu.

Dave

ch312 · Post by **ch312** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 6:53 pm

even with zwickey judo points my exomax fires the bolts right through a squirrel and an inch into trees

id love to see a flu flu for crossbows. i want to hunt small game with my bow so much that im considering buying a compound for that purpose. new bolts would be much cheaper....

GaryL · Post by **GaryL** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 7:09 pm

ch312 wrote:even with zwickey judo points my exomax fires the bolts right through a squirrel and an inch into trees

id love to see a flu flu for crossbows. i want to hunt small game with my bow so much that im considering buying a compound for that purpose. new bolts would be much cheaper....

Yup, but shucks a new bow is handy ta have, however for the small game such as bushy tails I would get one of these:
http://excaliburcrossbow.com/demo/listi ... gory_id=74

wabi · Post by **wabi** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 7:33 pm

I've given it thought, but I can't see how it would be possible. A flu-flu depends on oversize fletching to slow the arrow rapidly. Usually either a spiral wrapped full length feather, or 6 un-cut feathers. Neither would work in the track of a crossbow.
The old traditional longbow or recurve is still the best option for small game, and even they aren't foolproof. I've shot through a squirrel with a steel blunt sticking the arrow in the tree 15' up - that leads to a lot of work to recover the squirrel & arrow!

ch312 · Post by **ch312** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 8:52 pm

what about those big rubber blunts that are about 5/8-3/4" on the end? i doubt my exomax would be able to fire that through a squirrel?

Turtleman · Post by **Turtleman** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 9:38 pm

How about the G5 head out , that looks like a eagle claw? I don't think it would bury very deep in anything. Just a thought.

GaryL · Post by **GaryL** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 9:51 pm

ch312 wrote:what about those big rubber blunts that are about 5/8-3/4" on the end? i doubt my exomax would be able to fire that through a squirrel?

The 125gr rubber blunts turn them in to mush, plus can go clear thru.. Lighter poundage xbows/recurve or long bows is the key!

flu-flu with compound or recruve is good for taking them outa the trees, flat shot the arrow slows mighty fast

DMc · Post by **DMc** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 10:00 am

I'm pretty sure a really heavy arrow would absorb so much energy from the limbs on release that it would blow entirely through the squirrel and the tree that it was sitting on even with the rubber blunt. I am thinking light arrows are more influenced by drag. I used to love the ripping sound of a flu-flu leaving my recurve or long bow.

On the crossbow how about cutting a stiff, plastic fletch into 1/2" sections, putting as much twist as will fit in the track and gluing them on the shaft in a louvered/venetian blind pattern?

It might work even better if the fletching material was full size like an uncut feather. This should create a whole bunch of turbulence.

Dave

ch312 · Post by **ch312** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 11:30 am

how about a mini parachute like they have on funny cars?

gonna get some of the rubber blunts today and try them out on my pillow case target....

wabi · Post by **wabi** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 6:08 pm

DMc wrote:It might work even better if the fletching material was full size like an uncut feather. This should create a whole bunch of turbulence.

Dave

An uncut feather would probably hit the bottom of the channel in the rail. Not sure, but it could cause the arrow to "jump" when it clears the hold-down spring clip, and if the string went under the shaft it would essentially be a dry-fire.

GaryL · Post by **GaryL** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 6:16 pm

wabi wrote:
DMc wrote:It might work even better if the fletching material was full size like an uncut feather. This should create a whole bunch of turbulence.

Dave
An uncut feather would probably hit the bottom of the channel in the rail. Not sure, but it could cause the arrow to "jump" when it clears the hold-down spring clip, and if the string went under the shaft it would essentially be a dry-fire.

Wabi, how about a full length fearher at 4deg, then cut so it should not drag the rail enough to cause jump after clearing the clip ? the length plus feather massX3 should slow the arrow down a lot, just a guess of course

wabi · Post by **wabi** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 7:41 pm

GaryL wrote:
wabi wrote:
DMc wrote:It might work even better if the fletching material was full size like an uncut feather. This should create a whole bunch of turbulence.

Dave
An uncut feather would probably hit the bottom of the channel in the rail. Not sure, but it could cause the arrow to "jump" when it clears the hold-down spring clip, and if the string went under the shaft it would essentially be a dry-fire.
Wabi, how about a full length fearher at 4deg, then cut so it should not drag the rail enough to cause jump after clearing the clip ? the length plus feather massX3 should slow the arrow down a lot, just a guess of course

Gary L.
The longest I can fletch with my fletcher is a little over 6". I doubt if 3 6" uncut feathers would slow the arrow enough to really help.
For my flu-flus for my trad bows I use 6 - 5" uncut feathers @ 4º offset. (by using 5" I can get 6 fletches from 3 full-length feathers)

DMc · Post by **DMc** » Thu Dec 25, 2008 4:52 pm

This is one of my ideas I would like to try. Hopefully, you will understand the idea I am trying to illustrate when I refer to "louvered". My thinking is increased twist produced in the same size track as a single feather, thereby making it fit within the constraints of the crossbow rail.

My coarse attempt at using Paint is trying to protray all three groups of feathers having the louvered construction.

Dave

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