Questions re: Strings and Arrows

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mmecrossbow
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Questions re: Strings and Arrows

Post by mmecrossbow »

I just got a new Vortex Red Dot Package. I will be using it solely for target shooting and eventually maybe competition. It comes standard with Excel Strings and the Series 22 Carbon Arrows.

A couple of questions:

1. How do the Series 22 Carbon Arrows differ from the Aluminum Arrows, and how do the three Aluminum Arrows differ from each other (#s 2213, 2216, and 2219)? Which is preferable for use with the Vortex strictly for target shooting and maybe competition? Also, how would the choice differ for hunting?

2. How do the Excel Strings differ from the Flemish Dyna Flight Strings? Which is better in terms of durability, reliability, and performance?

Thank you!
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Peted
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Re: Questions re: Strings and Arrows

Post by Peted »

The carbon arrows are lighter and won't bend, they explode instead. The aluminium arrows the 22 is the diameter of the arrow and the 13,16,19 is the wall thickness in thousandths of an inch. The flemish string will give you 10-15 feet per second faster than the stock string but if you dry fire it you can cause damage to your bow. The speed on the sticker on the stock of your bow is with the flemish string and carcon arrows. Pete
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mmecrossbow
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Re: Questions re: Strings and Arrows

Post by mmecrossbow »

Thank you for such prompt and helpful reply. So, when you're really only doing target practice into a crossbow target or doing competition, which do people tend to prefer and why? Bent arrows don't work, nor do shattered ones. And, that would get expensive to have to replace. And, why would anyone not pick the 19 over the 16 and 13 if thickness presumably makes the arrow less prone to bending? As for string, other than speed, they are both as durable? How do you ensure you never enable a dry fire? I know these are basic questions, but I'm new. Thank you!
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Re: Questions re: Strings and Arrows

Post by Limbs and Sticks »

Welcome aboard, the setup you have will do fine, learn your bow what feels good and what don't, all the add on's and bell's and whistles will come later,have fun learning, ps always make sure there is a arrow loaded before you squeezzzz the trigger and never shoot the same dot twice in a row

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mmecrossbow
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Re: Questions re: Strings and Arrows

Post by mmecrossbow »

Thank you, I'm delighted to be here. When you say not to ever shoot the same dot twice in a row, how do you avoid that? I've never used a red dot before. I certainly can understand how to not squeeze the trigger until the arrow is secure. As to the other questions, any personal thoughts?: Carbon v. Aluminum: "which do people tend to prefer and why? Bent arrows don't work, nor do shattered ones. And, that would get expensive to have to replace. And, why would anyone not pick the 19 over the 16 and 13 if thickness presumably makes the arrow less prone to bending?" Thanks again!
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Re: Questions re: Strings and Arrows

Post by wabi »

So, when you're really only doing target practice into a crossbow target or doing competition, which do people tend to prefer and why?
I'd have to say carbons are probably the best pick for target work. My reasoning is that most damage to the arrows will come not from impact with the target, but from removing the arrow from the target. A little carelessness in pulling the arrow less than perfectly straight out of the target can result in a bent arrow.
And, why would anyone not pick the 19 over the 16 and 13 if thickness presumably makes the arrow less prone to bending?
The 2213s will weigh less and give higher velocites when shot from the same bow.
The 2216s are somewhere in the middle as far as velocity & durability.
The 2219 is the most rugged of the 3 and has more kinetic energy, but is slower.
The choice is strictly individual - do you want higher velocity, or more durability & KE?
(I use 2215s myself, but I make my own arrows and have picked the 2215 as it is more durable than a 2213, but still reasonably light weight)
As for string, other than speed, they are both as durable?
Both are similar as far as durability, but the "Excel" string is furnished with a new bow for a reason! The dacron is much more "forgiving" in the event of a dry-fire and less likely to damage your limbs. Excalibur recommends using the Excel string for your first year of shooting for this reason. By the time you've had a year's worth of experience your chances of a dry-fire are much less.
How do you ensure you never enable a dry fire?
Always be 100% certain an arrow is loaded and seated firmly against the string!
Sounds easy, but it isn't always that easy. :wink:
My own experiences with dry-fires have been a result of being distracted while in the process of cocking - loading - shooting. My procedure today is never cock the bow until I'm ready to shoot (1 exception is when getting ready to climb into a tree stand). Cock the bow - flip the safety ON - IMMEDIATELY load the arrow.
If someone is watching you shoot and you have a conversation going on - don't cock the bow until you finish talking!
For the tree stand - I cock the bow, set the safety ON, then attach it to the pull-up rope. As soon as I haul it aloft I load an arrow!
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mmecrossbow
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Re: Questions re: Strings and Arrows

Post by mmecrossbow »

Excellent advice and help, thank you! This has been so helpful. :D
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jackleg
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Re: Questions re: Strings and Arrows

Post by jackleg »

When you say not to ever shoot the same dot twice in a row, how do you avoid that?


Same dot on the target. You will destroy your arrows. :D :D :D
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Re: Questions re: Strings and Arrows

Post by Chuck Gravel »

put a piece of masking tape on each of your limbs, one that says safety and the other that says arrow. put them in the middle of ther limb, every time you load, engage/disengage the safety, or look through the scope you will see these reminders. i learned this from another member here after i dry fired my equinox and still has never failed. also good luck with the bow, if you looking for a really nice bag target for field tips try the morrels yellow jacket target. it cost about $50 and i always get two finger put out with my equinox, and it holds up great.
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mmecrossbow
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Re: Questions re: Strings and Arrows

Post by mmecrossbow »

Very good, jackleg! :lol: Well, is that a problem when you're using a foam style target meant for crossbows (both broadheads and points?), don't the holes fill back in fairly well? I don't think you could very easily shoot the same hole twice on that style target. What do most people use? Thank you!

Chuck, thank you for the advice on the bag, I was going to venture into that subject next! :) And, the reminders are a very good idea, one can get distracted, especially without enough practice or experience. Thank you!
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jackleg
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Re: Questions re: Strings and Arrows

Post by jackleg »

Very good, jackleg! Well, is that a problem when you're using a foam style target meant for crossbows (both broadheads and points?), don't the holes fill back in fairly well? I don't think you could very easily shoot the same hole twice on that style target. What do most people use? Thank you!
It's a problem when you are shooting an excalibur, no matter what the target. :lol:
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mmecrossbow
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Re: Questions re: Strings and Arrows

Post by mmecrossbow »

I'm definitely starting to gather that! :lol: Looks like I made the right choice! :D Thanks again!
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Peted
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Re: Questions re: Strings and Arrows

Post by Peted »

I prefer carbons for hunting and 3D. I need lube on them for 3D or they are a bugger to get out of the targets. I think he means don't shoot at the same dot twice to avoid robin-hooding your arrows. P{ete
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Re: Questions re: Strings and Arrows

Post by mmecrossbow »

Thank you, that's very helpful, you're right, he meant not to shoot into the same place on the target, I think. I think I would pull out the arrow each time to avoid that problem and keep the target in good shape (one of those foam ones I just ordered).
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