Crossbow Shooting Form

[Boo]

Thank you for your input everyone, I truly appreciate it.

One last question, since follow through is so very important due to the slower reaction of the string and arra than in a firearm, is there any remedy to the jump or jolt of the crossbow as it fires?

If you are talking about recoil, yes. You can slow down your string with cat whiskers or add weight to your bow. But truly, your best option is to ignore the recoil and concentrate on watching your arrow hit its mark through your scope.

Yes, I'm sorry, I was talking about the recoil. I do have string whiskers on my string. Ok, so now I know to watch the arrow through the scope instead of lifting my head.

If you watch your arrow, you won't notice a thang

[TheBig1]

One last question, since follow through is so very important due to the slower reaction of the string and arra than in a firearm, is there any remedy to the jump or jolt of the crossbow as it fires?[/quote]
If you are talking about recoil, yes. You can slow down your string with cat whiskers or add weight to your bow. But truly, your best option is to ignore the recoil and concentrate on watching your arrow hit its mark through your scope.[/quote]

Yes, I'm sorry, I was talking about the recoil. I do have string whiskers on my string. Ok, so now I know to watch the arrow through the scope instead of lifting my head.[/quote]
If you watch your arrow, you won't notice a thang [/quote]

Thanks as always Don!

[drkeenan]

I'm no expert on shooting form, but I quickly figured out it's not wise to get a finger above the rail.

One time and I have never made that mistake again.

(6 stitches & 2 broken bones)

^^^ THIS LOL!! Lost a 1/4 inch off the top of my thumb. right thru the nail. Can laugh about it no but not so funny at the time!!

[No One]

Thank you for your input everyone, I truly appreciate it.

One last question, since follow through is so very important due to the slower reaction of the string and arra than in a firearm, is there any remedy to the jump or jolt of the crossbow as it fires?

If you are talking about recoil, yes. You can slow down your string with cat whiskers or add weight to your bow. But truly, your best option is to ignore the recoil and concentrate on watching your arrow hit its mark through your scope.

Yes, I'm sorry, I was talking about the recoil. I do have string whiskers on my string. Ok, so now I know to watch the arrow through the scope instead of lifting my head.

Its one hard habit to break I have been working on it for a while now.


As to form I do better when I hold the fore armed grip loosely in the palm of my hand with a left arm tuck in my side.

[wabi]

I've been shooting a crossbow for so many years now "follow through" is so automatic to my shooting form I don't even think about it. But it is very important. By "follow through" I mean watching the arrow's flight through the scope until it impacts the target. Even if the arrow is traveling so fast it's hard to see in flight, hold that bow steady until the arrow hits the target!

[Sam, just Sam...]

Thank you for your input everyone, I truly appreciate it.

One last question, since follow through is so very important due to the slower reaction of the string and arra than in a firearm, is there any remedy to the jump or jolt of the crossbow as it fires?

On a rifle I like to hold it loose and let it "surprise" me, I get great groupings like that. With my crossbow I find that if I "cram" it into my shoulder and know exactly when it will fire helps me a lot! I can get a great grouping at 40 yards, pretty good at 50, and haven't tried at 60. I would say get it sighted perfectly from a bench, but then practice what you will do when hunting, if you have a rest, practice it! If you will be standing free-handing in a tree stand, practice that too! Sorry, nothing mind-blowing, but just basics of shooting, at least for my style.

[paulaboutform]

After years of competitive 3D shooting on a national level with compounds, as well as coaching I've transferred some of the principles to shooting my crossbow. The main premise being that we try to duplicate the exact same shot every time. This shot process is usually broken down into ten steps following each step exactly the same every time. Something like :
1. Cock the bow
2. Load the arrow
3. Target acquisition
4. Shoulder the bow
5. Target acquisition through scope
6. Float the crosshairs on the x ring
7. Take up on trigger
8. Settle breathing, aim aim aim
9. Squeeze trigger subconsciously while aiming
10. Shot conclusion = sound of arrow hitting the target and the visual through the scope.
Bow can now be lowered. At least that's what I've done.

Paul

[j.krug]

I don't see why it should be different from a rifle but the lock time is much longer on a crossbow so form is more critical.You pretty much need a level to shoot consistently off hand.
I'm right handed and shoot with my left elbow tucked against my left side and my left hand a head of the trigger guard.
It's pretty much like the pic below. Everyone's skeletal and muscle structure is different so, whatever works for you. I don't normally us a sling to stabilize the bow.

Don, thanks for posting the pic of your shooting form. Did not know you were into X-country skiing...but the tights look great!!

[Bullzeye]

I do the same as Boo explained except for offhand shots I use my sling as stability the same as I do with my rifles, this way I can hold the crosshairs on my target without moving much longer than I could without the sling.

[wildcatter]

I have one thing I call form, that is follow thru watching my arrow all the way to the mark.

I practice every contorted position I think I may ever get in when hunting, dodging limbs trees rails you name it, twisted crouched sitting or standing. When hunting perfect form aint usually happening. I don't shoot 3D on a stage so to me the form we see the little blonde is has absolutely nothing to do with hunting accuracy.

Setting up a scope properly is done one way, I have a 20# plumb bob I hang at 25 yards, and a bench with my target rifle rest set up, I have bow set in the rest with a level on the riser, (the rail should be level with the riser) then make sure my aiming point stay on my plumb line, with the entire vertical hair matched to it. Once the rings are tightened, everything is square with the limbs. JTWIDI

But I have never found anything but keeping the limbs level, and following the arrow all the way to the target, the only things that apply in hunting form.

[TheBig1]

Setting up a scope properly is done one way, I have a 20# plumb bob I hang at 25 yards, and a bench with my target rifle rest set up, I have bow set in the rest with a level on the riser, (the rail should be level with the riser) then make sure my aiming point stay on my plumb line, with the entire vertical hair matched to it. Once the rings are tightened, everything is square with the limbs. JTWIDI

That is really great information, thank you for that. I was wondering how everyone made sure their scopes were completely level. I just eyeballed it and switched it back and forth for about 15 minutes until I felt that things were right. I did place a level on the rail as I was doing it though, so I've got that covered. I just couldn't think of anything to do such as a plumb bob.

[8ptbuk]

Setting up a scope properly is done one way, I have a 20# plumb bob I hang at 25 yards, and a bench with my target rifle rest set up, I have bow set in the rest with a level on the riser, (the rail should be level with the riser) then make sure my aiming point stay on my plumb line, with the entire vertical hair matched to it. Once the rings are tightened, everything is square with the limbs. JTWIDI

That is really great information, thank you for that. I was wondering how everyone made sure their scopes were completely level. I just eyeballed it and switched it back and forth for about 15 minutes until I felt that things were right. I did place a level on the rail as I was doing it though, so I've got that covered. I just couldn't think of anything to do such as a plumb bob.

Good info in this thread ! I might also add how to check your scope after squaring it up on the bow , Sight in dead on at 20yds ( vertical piece of black tape ) then go to 40/50yds (vertical piece of black tape ) and shoot using your 40/50 yds aiming point . Your arrows should still hit in the tape at 40/50yds also . If it hits left or right your scope isn't square yet . Shooting should be done off a rock solid rest and bow not canted . If your scopes not squared you'll constantly be adjusting left/right settings on the scope ! If you want to hit small objects at long range your scope has to be squared perfectly ! JMO

[wildcatter]

Setting up a scope properly is done one way, I have a 20# plumb bob I hang at 25 yards, and a bench with my target rifle rest set up, I have bow set in the rest with a level on the riser, (the rail should be level with the riser) then make sure my aiming point stay on my plumb line, with the entire vertical hair matched to it. Once the rings are tightened, everything is square with the limbs. JTWIDI

That is really great information, thank you for that. I was wondering how everyone made sure their scopes were completely level. I just eyeballed it and switched it back and forth for about 15 minutes until I felt that things were right. I did place a level on the rail as I was doing it though, so I've got that covered. I just couldn't think of anything to do such as a plumb bob.

Good info in this thread ! I might also add how to check your scope after squaring it up on the bow , Sight in dead on at 20yds ( vertical piece of black tape ) then go to 40/50yds (vertical piece of black tape ) and shoot . Your arrows should still hit in the tape at 40/50yds also . If it hits left or right your scope isn't square yet . Shooting should be done off a rock solid rest and bow not canted . If your scopes not squared you'll constantly be adjusting left/right settings on the scope ! If you want to hit small objects at long range your scope has to be squared perfectly ! JMO

This does not have anything to do with the scope being level, If you have a 10 mph wind at 90*, you should hit left or right, with any arrow out to 40 yards in that condition will be blown off approx 1.5" in that side wind. Any wind at all can cause a miss left or right this will not show the scope reticle is level, and should never twist the scope in the rings this happens.

If tested in dead calm and the arrow hits left or right, it is not because the reticle needs rotated, it only means the scope base is not centered over the rail or square with it. But has nothing to do with setting the scope level with the the limbs, rail, and riser. This would only indicate the need to shim the scope mount, or rail, again, not to rotate the scope in the rings.

[paulaboutform]

Wildcatter, I'm sorry but I'm just not following what you're saying. Level, not level, shimmying, ??? Maybe you can just simplify it for me please. My experience is that your bow and scope need to be level, period. If you're in flat calm with no wind and you're punching nickels at 60yards but three inches left at twenty, I'd say your level is something you should certainly look at.

Paul

[wildcatter]

Wildcatter, I'm sorry but I'm just not following what you're saying. Level, not level, shimmying, ??? Maybe you can just simplify it for me please. My experience is that your bow and scope need to be level, period. If you're in flat calm with no wind and you're punching nickels at 60yards but three inches left at twenty, I'd say your level is something you should certainly look at.

Paul

I said it has to be level, and there are ways to test any level for correct readings, once it is perfectly level, it can still be off center, I have seen many rifles that had scope mounts or mounting holes out of square with the barrel. Same with a Crossbow. Once the reticle is level with the limbs string rail and riser, which if it is made properly will be all on the same plane. If there is any left right after that it is not because the scope it out of level.

Now if conditions and arrows are not causing it, only the scope being out of square with the rail can be the problem, it could mean the front or rear needs shifted left or right, or the entire scope rail could be setting left or right of the center of the rail. But placing the crosshair out of level to compensate for this fixes nothing,,,,,, like you said, once you are level,,, and perfectly aligned vertically with a plumb line at 25 yards your perfectly level system is established, if you shoot right or left at longer range,,,,, the problem lies somewhere else, and shifting the scope out of level with the limbs and rail isn't going to fix it!!