Final Prep: Sighting In W/Bolts & Broadheads?

[TheBig1]

Ok fellas, for some reason I just want to know EXACTLY what you do.

So everything's ready and all I have to do is shoot all of my arrows and broadheads to make sure that I don't have any fliers.

1. How do you do it? Do you actually shoot EVERY arrow that you're taking with you in the quiver?

2. Do you shoot each different broadhead attached to those arrows?

I only ask because I think that the broadheads would become dull because of you possibly having to shoot multiple shots with at least one broadhead. So how do you do it?

Chad

[xcaliber]

Chad, I shoot every arrow in my quiver through the ranges I plan to hunt with field points. I then do this with a broadhead on one arrow to see if any changes are noticed. I then tweak the scope if necessary to the Broadhead flight.

[TheBig1]

Chad, I shoot every arrow in my quiver through the ranges I plan to hunt with field points. I then do this with a broadhead on one arrow to see if any changes are noticed. I then tweak the scope if necessary to the Broadhead flight.

Ok, so if you're shooting 4 arrows in your quiver, after you've sighted it in with your field points, you then switch to only 1 broadhead to shoot all 4 arrows with? You don't shoot all 4 broadheads?

I'm assuming that the 1 broadhead that you do use is then kept as a target broadhead, is this correct?

[Sparkey]

I shoot all my arrows and put together the three that seem to group the best with a field point.

I am going to shoot QAD Exodus 125grain broad heads for turkey, so making the assumption that QC for them is good, I have one that I use as a target head and make sure that the three arrows from above all fly and group relatively similar.

If so, then two arrows get a broadhead and one gets a field point for those moments when a red squirrel is pissing me off! lol

[xcaliber]

Chad, I shoot every arrow in my quiver through the ranges I plan to hunt with field points. I then do this with a broadhead on one arrow to see if any changes are noticed. I then tweak the scope if necessary to the Broadhead flight.

Ok, so if you're shooting 4 arrows in your quiver, after you've sighted it in with your field points, you then switch to only 1 broadhead to shoot all 4 arrows with? You don't shoot all 4 broadheads?

I'm assuming that the 1 broadhead that you do use is then kept as a target broadhead, is this correct?

That is correct. Once I verify all arrows fly the same, or nearly the same, i then use a broadhead that will be used just for practice with the arrows i plan to hunt with. i do the 20 / 30 / 40 / 50 yard exercise with one arrow only, then just shoot others at 30 yards. If you are dead on after tweaking the scope, and then at 30 yards, you're in great shape.

[elknut]

What's a good broadhed target?

[Hunt it]

Let's say I am starting out with 1 dozen new arrows. First step is to number each, I use a sharpie and number cock vanes. All 12 arrows are then shot with field points same weight as broadheads to be used. I do this at 20 yards first, then all 12 again at 30 yards and all 12 again at 40 yards. I set aside any arrow that does not fly like the others. When all done above I then take the reject pile and shoot them all again at 20 yards but using different cock feather to see if that changes anything. Rejects get an X if they don't fly well - these culls then get checked over at home and then refleched with larger 3" fletch to see if I can't get them to fly.

All the good flyers then make it to the broadheads stage, here the above process is repeated exactly. The good ones become my hunting shafts. 99% of the time I can get the culls to fly good after trouble shooting.

This all takes some time but if I want accurate arrows this is the way to do it.

[TheBig1]

Let's say I am starting out with 1 dozen new arrows. First step is to number each, I use a sharpie and number cock vanes. All 12 arrows are then shot with field points same weight as broadheads to be used. I do this at 20 yards first, then all 12 again at 30 yards and all 12 again at 40 yards. I set aside any arrow that does not fly like the others. When all done above I then take the reject pile and shoot them all again at 20 yards but using different cock feather to see if that changes anything. Rejects get an X if they don't fly well - these culls then get checked over at home and then refleched with larger 3" fletch to see if I can't get them to fly.

All the good flyers then make it to the broadheads stage, here the above process is repeated exactly. The good ones become my hunting shafts. 99% of the time I can get the culls to fly good after trouble shooting.

This all takes some time but if I want accurate arrows this is the way to do it.

That's a great process Hunt, I like that. Thanks for the explanation.

[Sparkey]

Reinhart has some great broad head targets.

[nchunterkw]

#1 Each arrow is numbered.

I first sight in with 1 or 2 arrows at 20 yds to set zero. Then shoot at 40 to set the speed dial. Then I check 30 to make sure it is on. This is all done with field points.

I then assemble BHs on every hunting arrow and test them all starting at 40. Vertical drop is OK but any that hit left or right get set aside for troubleshooting. If necessary to adjust for vertical drop I go back to 20 to do that and then re-check at 40. I shoot every BH on their arrow because it does not take much on a fixed BH to cause erratic flight. By shooting into a Rinehart, I have not seen it adversely affect sharpness. I'm still getting pass thrus on about every animal and good blood.

For troubleshooting...................since I make and shoot 3 colored strings, I usually fletch my arrows to match with 3 different colored vanes - so numbering the cock vane is not necessary. I also make my own arrows... so I find the spine of each and pick a color and fletch that color on the spine and use that as a cock vane color to start. "Troubleshooting" most times only involves putting a different vane in the channel. When I am finally done, I use a silver sharpie and mark the arrow from the vane to the nock in line with the cock vane. The silver is easier to see in low light in the mornings so I can make sure to have the right vanes in the channel.

That's how I do it. FMMV.
Keith

[TheBig1]

I like that Keith, thank you for your input.

[Kegbelly]

Ok fellas, for some reason I just want to know EXACTLY what you do.

So everything's ready and all I have to do is shoot all of my arrows and broadheads to make sure that I don't have any fliers.

1. How do you do it? Do you actually shoot EVERY arrow that you're taking with you in the quiver?

Yep. I shoot them many times to know how each one flies. I carry 4 arrows in my quiver and number each arrow on a vane from 1 to 4.

2. Do you shoot each different broadhead attached to those arrows?

Yep. I don't want any guesswork in the field. You work too hard and spend too much time, energy, and coin to be guessing when it's time to pull the trigger.

I only ask because I think that the broadheads would become dull because of you possibly having to shoot multiple shots with at least one broadhead. So how do you do it?

Everyone has different choices in broadheads. I shoot fixed blades so I hunt with the same heads I practice with. I sharpen them and I'm good to go and know exactly how each arrow flies if I do my part. My buddy shoots mechanicals and has had excellent results with the practice head that comes with them. He practices with the practice heads and then just changes to the real head and hunts.
Best of luck to you whichever way you go.

[TheBig1]

Kegbelly, how do you sharpen your broadheads? I am shooting Ramcats.

[xcaliber]

All good advice.

[racking up points]

This year I have a new process. I started with spine sorted/indexed, weight-matched shafts and fletched them. I made 8 arrows for practice and made 6 for hunting.

The 8 practice arrows are identical to the 6 I will hunt with, (only a grain separates them), except I weight-match my plastic nocks to my Lumenocks on my hunting arrow.

The practice arrows get shot with field points all spring and summer. Getting my BHs to fly well has gotten easier since I moved to an expandable. About a month before the season starts, I will test each of the 6 hunting arrows which I have not shot, with a broadhead that is epoxied shut, (NAP FOC). If history holds true, there is almost no scope adjustment needed between my field tips and the FOC BH. Each arrow gets tested and if I have a flier, it never makes it to the quiver. But I have found all of the FOCs I have shot to fly as true as the next, so I don't feel the need to test each individual one. Besides, that's not recommended for these heads anyhow.