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Yesterday I took out the aluminum flat nocks in 4 of my Executioners to replace them with Luminoks. To remove the old nocks, I screwed in a target point, heated it with a torch for 25 - 30 seconds, and then pulled the point/nock out with pliers. Inspecting the arrows where I had just removed the nocks, I noticed a hairline crack running for about 1/2 inch down the shaft of 3 of the 4! Well that’s not good. I know the Luminoks can be a little tight and you might need to shave a tiny bit off to get a good fit but this was before I put them in.
Did I do something wrong here? What could have caused this? These nocks had not been removed before and were the ones in the arrows I bought from Wyvern several months ago. They arrows in question had been shot a good bit - a few hundred times maybe - but I wouldn’t expect this. I didn’t inspect the arrows before removing the nocks so I don’t know if the cracks were already there but I kinda doubt it.
Any help is appreciated.
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Excalibur Assassin w/ Boo Force 10 string
If you always do what you always did, you’ll always get what you always got.
You may have damaged your arrow when you heated them up . You want the lighted nock to fit snug but not to tight that it cracks your arrow. some time you will have to shave one of the knobs off of the nock , just take a little at a time.. if you heat up the field point take a wet paper towel and wrap it around the arrow tip this will help.
W.M.
By heating them sometimes they will crack, I don't use glue anymore on my aluminum nocks, I order them with the nocks loose. The reasoning behind this is because s I don't glue the nocks I use a plastic sandwich baggie and push the aluminum nock over the baggie and into the back of the arrow. The nock doesn't come out and you can remove them for luminocks anytime you want. Hope this helps.
Stryker Katana 360
Black Eagle Zombie Slayers
TruGlo Titanium X Hybrid Broadheads
All my BEEs came with press fit nocks installed. No glue on them so no heat is necessary. Just screw in a point and pull them out. You will probably need to cut off a tad of the shaft and refletch before using them again.
Anytime an insert is heated, you run a risk of damaging a shaft. I never try to remove inserts that have been glued in by Cyanoacrylate glues. Methods of removal are not controlled enough for my liking. The pleasure just doesn't outweigh the possible pain.
If someone could figure out the actual amount of heat you can safely apply to a carbon shaft and what amount of heat it takes to compromise the bond of Cyanoacrylate glues, I might change my mind but in the mean time, I'll stick with the known and avoid the unknown.