Broadhead planning?

[Cossack]

I had planing problems with the original Thunderheads when I started 8 yrs ago. The big heads would fly on a particular arrow but shoot to a differenht point of impact on the next. Found the answer after considerable experimentation: 1)Low profile (short), 4-bladed heads.2) High FOC, like 18-20%. 3) Short vanes (2" Blazer, Fusion, Hunter, etc) set at helical. Works for me

[sumner4991]

I had planing problems with the original Thunderheads when I started 8 yrs ago. The big heads would fly on a particular arrow but shoot to a differenht point of impact on the next. Found the answer after considerable experimentation: 1(Low profile (short), 4-bladed heads.2) High FOC, like 18-20%. 3) Short vanes (2" Blazer, Fusion, Hunter, etc) set at helical. Works for me

Cossack . . .I can see where that set-up would be very good. Not sure about the four bladed being better at reducing plannning(more surface area should result in a greater chance of planning), however, I perfer the four blades for cutting. The more cutting surface, the more bleeding and I like that.

[rej]

I had planing problems with the original Thunderheads when I started 8 yrs ago. The big heads would fly on a particular arrow but shoot to a differenht point of impact on the next. Found the answer after considerable experimentation: 1(Low profile (short), 4-bladed heads.2) High FOC, like 18-20%. 3) Short vanes (2" Blazer, Fusion, Hunter, etc) set at helical. Works for me

Cossack . . .I can see where that set-up would be very good. Not sure about the four bladed being better at reducing plannning(more surface area should result in a greater chance of planning), however, I perfer the four blades for cutting. The more cutting surface, the more bleeding and I like that.

My experience so far follows what Cossack has posted. I use 2" Blazers with lots of helical. The BH is SlickTrick 175 gr. xbow magnum, a short style 4 blade. I don't think it catches much air as it groups extremely well out to 50 yd. I do this using Firebolts as they have worked well for me.

[nchunterkw]

Sumner...just curious....if you put the arrow with the bent blade on a spinner it would look fine - meaning the ferrule is not bent at all?

Correct . . .I couldn't figure out why the broadhead flew off like that . . .perfect one shot, eight inches then off the next. I looked it over, shot it again and way off. Spun it . . didn't notice a thing(but, I wasn't looking at the blades specifically during the spin, so, I could have missed that). I finally decided to put in new blades and it flew perfect again . . .it was a Wasp Boss, but, there are several on the market built in a similar manner. Those thin replaceable blades are made to bend so a hit on bone will not stop the penetration and will keep cutting muscle tissue. But, at the same time, this makes it impossible to test them before hunting with them. About all the mechanical blades are made that way, but, since they are folded, the broadhead still flies straight even if the blades aren't exactly perfect.

I switched broadheads immediately because, at the time, I was testing all my broadheads before I hunted with them . . .well, I couldn't be guaranteed that it would shoot perfectly after the test . . .see what I mean.

Anyway, I found the big cut mechanicals to be easier and just as deadly. The added bonus, I don't test them. I make sure they pass the spinner test and I'm ready to go. I just make sure the arrows are straight and the broadhead is seated correctly. If I can give them a fast spin and there's no wobble, then , it's good.

Took a LOT of testing for me to be comfortable with that.

My fixed blades . . .I still test them. I like the Slick Tricks . . .very well built, strong blades, and lots of cutting surface. But, you got to shoot them before you know for sure if those blades are perfect. . .and I might add, I've never found a bad Slick Trick. But, I have only tested a couple of dozen.

Be sure to take a good look at the tip of the broadhead . . .the tip must be dead center, otherwise, it will push the arrow. I had that happen . . .don't assume they are perfect.

Lots of great stuff here...thanks. I have experienced many of the things you speak of. Sometimes you figure them out but sometimes not. Had a lot of trouble yesterday with a buddy's Horton Hunter. I think more of the trouble was with the bow than the arrows though. it's pretty old and I figure the tiller is not good.

I am a fixed blade guy now, although I think with all I have learned on here I could make a good arrow and use mechs like you. In the past I was using mechs to compensate for poor BH flight. I got better flight but still had a pretty unstable arrow and it showed at impact. I know now that if my BH tipped arrow is true at 20 and 40 yds that it's probably flying pretty well. And to your point about blade strength, I shoot Magnus Stingers, Montecs or Slick tricks. I also test everyone before I go out. I get them shaving sharp, and then 1 shot into a Rhinehart. I figure that doesn't hurt sharpness too much.