O/T Gun Blueing

diesel · Post by **diesel** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 8:31 pm

Anyone ever do any gun blueing ?
I've got a Savage Model 24, 22/410 . My Dad bought it new back in 1960.
We were all ( 11 kids ) taught to hunt with this gun. Most of us shot our first rabbit and squirrel with this gun.
I've found and bought some new sights for it and soon will pick up a new stock. The guns a little rough looking due to lack of care.
I want to make it look nice with out spending a lot of money.
Also anyone know where they put the serial number on these ?
Thanks

BigTiny · Post by **BigTiny** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 10:48 pm

I have heard good things about Blue Wonder, but have never used it myself.

hawg hunter · Post by **hawg hunter** » Thu Apr 19, 2007 5:40 am

Blue Wonder. Some guns that old did not have no's.

Kenton · Post by **Kenton** » Thu Apr 19, 2007 6:07 am

Ive heard of very few people getting good results from gun blueing themselves.

TPM · Post by **TPM** » Thu Apr 19, 2007 7:42 am

If it was made before 1968 it won't have a serial number.

Ive heard of very few people getting good results from gun blueing themselves.

I've got acceptable results but any cold blueing I've tried never lasted. It tends to wear off very easy so you'll find yourself constantly touching it up.
BTW, those Savage 24's are great guns. I've got one in 30/30 over 20ga..

xeon · Post by **xeon** » Thu Apr 19, 2007 6:17 pm

If I were you I would try to get a sample swatch of the metal they used in that model year gun, and try it first. Hate to ruin a decent gun on a DIY project youve never done before. Better yet, ask the local gunsmith if he does it or know of any companies that do.

wabi · Post by **wabi** » Thu Apr 19, 2007 8:31 pm

Not sure of the product name or details of how it works, but I read an article some time ago on a product Brownell's has that you spray on like paint and then bake it in the oven. According to the writer it was good looking and very durable.
I've done small parts by sandblasting them, then cold bluing and they held up well. Just be sure to follow directions for the blueing. The biggest problem with most cold blue jobs not working well comes from not getting all the grease & oil off the metal. I like to boil the parts in a couple changes of water before bluing. Boil it, then slowly pour the water off so the oil stays on top & pours off with the water.

Sean.D · Post by **Sean.D** » Fri Apr 20, 2007 12:13 pm

I used Blue Wonder on a Lee Enfield 303.I think it is a mark 3.Anyhow
it's old.I did the complete rifle.Its been three years now.I use it Moose hunting.
I did alot of research before I decided on this product.I actually used their new product Gun black.
I would recommend this product.

Sean.

A.W · Post by **A.W** » Fri Apr 20, 2007 12:44 pm

Sean.D wrote:I used Blue Wonder on a Lee Enfield 303.I think it is a mark 3.Anyhow
it's old.I did the complete rifle.Its been three years now.I use it Moose hunting.
I did alot of research before I decided on this product.I actually used their new product Gun black.
I would recommend this product.

Sean.

Wher did you buy the Gun Black?

Grizzly Adam · Post by **Grizzly Adam** » Fri Apr 20, 2007 2:52 pm

Would you consider browning it instead of bluing it?

TPM's point is well taken. You can get excellent-looking, inky-blue-black results with cold bluing processes ... if you polish properly and degrease properly and apply properly and kill the action properly and set the bluing properly ... but alas, cold bluing seldom lasts long or bears any abuse. It's just too shallow and delicate.

Also, some gun-steels are nearly impossible to cold-blue without streaking and spotting, particularly in shotgun barrels.

Cold-rust browning, as was and is commonly found on blackpowder replicas and firearms, is tough indeed, and wears very well. In fact, while bluing tends toward brown with age, browning establishes and fixes the natural process "right off the bat."

Looks good, too, if properly done. Again, prep, polish, degreasing, application, setting and finishing is key.

It is a very viable option, if you're interested ... and can look almost charcoal-black, if you want it that dark. Browning is a natural matte finish that doesn't shine and spook game, as well ... another advantage.

Up to you. Just thought I'd offer the idea.

diesel · Post by **diesel** » Fri Apr 20, 2007 4:30 pm

I've not herd of browning. Where can I find out more ? Have you done this ?
Thanks

Grizzly Adam · Post by **Grizzly Adam** » Fri Apr 20, 2007 6:43 pm

Yes, I know about browning. I am familiar with most aspects of building blackpowder guns ... strictly amateur ... haven't done anything for money.

Here are a couple of links for you. One is from the American Longrifles site and is a simple explanation of a typical browning procedure using a commercially available reageant (solution):

http://www.americanlongrifles.com/WorkS ... owning.htm

The other link is from the Track of the Wolf website and is the sale description of a nicely browned boxlock percussion rifle. I chose the boxlock because it shows a little more browned area than other styles:

http://www.trackofthewolf.com

If you can't get that link to work, just Google Track of the Wolf, scroll down to the Guns for Sale category, click on Percussion, then Percussion Rifles. On Page 1, find the Boxlock Percussion Rifle by Rich Dillon.

Browning is easy, if you follow solid steps and do it well.

diesel · Post by **diesel** » Sat Apr 21, 2007 9:52 pm

Thanks for all your help guys. I will let you know how things turn out.
Larry

Sean.D · Post by **Sean.D** » Mon Apr 23, 2007 3:36 pm

I ordered it from a store in Concord.

http://www.greatnorthernprostore.com/

Through the web address http://www.bluewonder.us/default.asp

it lists all supporting retail outlets.

O/T Gun Blueing

O/T Gun Blueing

blueing

A.W