Today my scope shook lose. I suddenly notices that I had to tilt the bow to get the crosshair strait and then I noticed that the entire scope was movable. The screws on the scope rings had been loosened up by vibrations (the A screws according to the picture).
I think I have asked this before, but what screws do you recommend to lock with locktite? All of A, B & C? None? Any other screws to loctite?
One more question. Is it normal that you have to tighten the 2 screws holding the riser after about every 20 shots? I usually start to feel (not hear) a small "click" in the cocking air while cocking the bow after about 20 shots. It goes away if I tighten the riser screw closest to the trigger.
I used loctite only on the screws you have marked "C" in the picture.
It wouldn't hurt to use it on all of them, though.
The screws that hold the limbs to the riser and the riser to the rail I simply used a long (high quality) hex wrench to really torque down, and they have never loosened.
One tip Bill T gave me was to tighten the screws that hold the riser to the rail firmly, but not too tight, then cock the crossbow - flip the safety ON - and then really tighten the screws down! This seats the riser tightly against the rail.
Just be careful not to over tighten the screws that hold the rail in the stock! They go into thin aluminum and could easily be stripped!
One caution - if you use thread lock in the "C" screws, you will have trouble if you ever do need to remove them. The hex key is very small (3/16") and easily rounds out the hole. You might want to consider replacing these small screws with bigger headed screws - I believe they are available in a 9/32" head.
I know that Excalibur recommends using lock tightener on these holes, but in my opinion you'd be better off not using it, but checking and tightening all the screws periodically as part of your regular bow maintenance.
I use a little nail polish (colour optional ) on the screws that I dont want coming loose and it works great....Found loc-tite a little hard to remove sometimes.
Thread locker on C and degrease A and B before tightening. Some heat on C will facilitate future removal of those 4 if needed.
EXCALFFLICTION 1991 ->>----------> 2024
Matrix 355
Huskemaw and Leupold crossbow optics.
Boo Strings
SWAT BH's and TOTA heads.
Teach Your Family How To Hunt So You Don't Have To Hunt For Your Family
a torque wrench is a great investment. takes a little worry out of things.aluminum rings need only like 15 lbs. and are easy to strip out. i use the wheeler engineering fat wrench. i call the mounts that come with bows cheapos. have had many similar mounts on guns in the past and had a few fail. im not gonna say they wont work or even last several lifetimes but i would upgrade when you get a chance. for 30-40$ it will be a great investment in not having worry.i like warne steel or leupold prw steels mounts. i use to like the weaver grand slam 20$ steel rings you get from walmart but i had problems with a set.
If you are not willing to learn, nobody can help you, if you are willing, nobody can stop you.
A bowhunter with a passion for shooting firearms.
WMU 91
Boo string
I use silicone seal(household 100% silicone caulk) on all screws that may vibrate out. Just clean and degrease them and the internal threads as well,apply the silicone with a toothpick or some other small tool to the male threads on the screws. Mount as normal.Tomorrow your scope will not come loose,yet removal is easy.I have done this for over 25 yrs and have not ever had one come loose,even on some hard kicking pistols,which are much harder to keep optics on than most rifles.Give it a try.At worst you can peel it off after it drys
Normally I do not use loctite on any fasteners. If I do put anything on it is normally clear lacquer like the stuff for touching up car paint. The exception is my Maxpoint, everything likes to come loose!
) on the screws that I dont want coming loose and it works great....Found loc-tite a little hard to remove sometimes.
