I have asked this in the past and never got a real good idea...how many out there would be intrested in a readily avaialble hard wood stock or a laminated one. I did some figures in the winter...and it would be hard to get the price down below $400 for an entry level stock (compariable to what comes on a Relayer25) but if I get a firm idea on the number of units this could change. I am starting to slow down in the shop (I build custom SPAM!, furniture, built in's and baths) www.premiercustomwoodworks.com
If I could get 10 comfirmed orders I would probably be willing to do a batch. Once I get my pro type done (I have the blank done for a while now...just got to put it in the milling machine to do the fitting of the mechanism and stuff)
Anyone possible interested please drop me a pm or email me thru my website. As well if anyone has any ideas or "wants" please let me know.
Ryan
Wood Stock
Moderator: Excalibur Marketing Dude
Found it in the baltic birch aka russian birch. Will be starting the project in a couple weeks after my return from vacation.bucont wrote:Update .... Still looking for a supplier for the wood. I have checked out a couple online and by the time it arrives at my door it is out of reach price wise.
Checked a couple of local guys out, needless to say I am still looking.
What are the preferences you would like to see?
My plan was to duplicate the excal stock in wood with some minor differneces.
Possibly a higher cheek plate for both LH and RH.
Still thinking about the thumb hole grip.
Perhaps a steel trigger guard.
Axiom SMF
Munch mount
MeadowBrooke Game Calls
LCCA
Munch mount
MeadowBrooke Game Calls
LCCA
Here is my current stock project for my .223. The H&R guns have a bolt coming right off te back of the receiver. Most thumbholes for these guns have the bolt head right in the palm of the pistol grip. I made this stock with the grip underneath the bolt, which is now hidden in the stock. The bolt head is just above the cutout and runs through where you can see my hanging chord for staining.
The wood is baltic birch. The stain is Minwax Ebony and the the finish is Bear Tung Oil. The tung oil causes the knots in the wood to get an almost rust color to them. I think the stock has a rustic look and plan on building one for me Exocet. I can't decide if I want a thumbhole or a McMillan or Thompson pro hunter type grip with thumbhole feel but easy access to the safety.
Another 3 coats of tung oil to shine it up nicely, install the buttpad and it's shooting.
The wood is baltic birch. The stain is Minwax Ebony and the the finish is Bear Tung Oil. The tung oil causes the knots in the wood to get an almost rust color to them. I think the stock has a rustic look and plan on building one for me Exocet. I can't decide if I want a thumbhole or a McMillan or Thompson pro hunter type grip with thumbhole feel but easy access to the safety.
Another 3 coats of tung oil to shine it up nicely, install the buttpad and it's shooting.
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Limbs and Sticks
- Posts: 3206
- Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:13 pm
- Location: Colonial Beach, Virginia, US
post sub
That really looks good, I like the color for sure, good job.
Wes
Wes
"Maxine"
1.75x5 Burris scope
Boo string
STS
Feathered easton 2020's
Magnus stingers
1.75x5 Burris scope
Boo string
STS
Feathered easton 2020's
Magnus stingers
i like the look of the relayer stockbucont wrote: Found it in the baltic birch aka russian birch. Will be starting the project in a couple weeks after my return from vacation.
What are the preferences you would like to see?
My plan was to duplicate the excal stock in wood with some minor differneces.
Possibly a higher cheek plate for both LH and RH.
Still thinking about the thumb hole grip.
Perhaps a steel trigger guard.
If guns cause crime, all of mine are defective
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randy rickmon
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:54 pm
Stock material
What are the dimensions for the blanks? I work in the hardwood lumber business as a dry kiln manager. Occasionally I'll see figured piece of hard or soft maple (curly or tiger stripe). I'd be glad to pm anyone who is interested. Straight grained material such as cherry and walnut are also done occasionally. All material is dried to 6-8% and stress relieved. I had black powder rifle stock made from curly soft maple and it's too pretty to hunt with.
Spent the evening drawing the stock up on the tube.
I have a representation of what it will look like roughed out.
Only one issue, the length is about 6" longer than my equiptment will handle.
It may be back to the drawing board. Two set ups would really not be good or would a new machine
I have a representation of what it will look like roughed out.
Only one issue, the length is about 6" longer than my equiptment will handle.
It may be back to the drawing board. Two set ups would really not be good or would a new machine
Axiom SMF
Munch mount
MeadowBrooke Game Calls
LCCA
Munch mount
MeadowBrooke Game Calls
LCCA
what are you using to cut it out (machine).
One thing I was thinking about over the weekend is the use of the baltic birch like mentioned above. I use alot of it for my drawer boxes and although they claim it to be void free I still see alot of voids in the inner plys.
Also, when laminating say 3/4" together are you changing the grain direction of the lamination or keeping the two meeting plys having the same grain direction? also, the baltic birch and most ofther plywoods of this caliber are glued together with urea formalihied (I can't spell) and a heat press....I would think you should be using the same glue if possible to limit any movements in the stock as most common wood glues have quite a bit of flex to them making them less stable.
RyanB
One thing I was thinking about over the weekend is the use of the baltic birch like mentioned above. I use alot of it for my drawer boxes and although they claim it to be void free I still see alot of voids in the inner plys.
Also, when laminating say 3/4" together are you changing the grain direction of the lamination or keeping the two meeting plys having the same grain direction? also, the baltic birch and most ofther plywoods of this caliber are glued together with urea formalihied (I can't spell) and a heat press....I would think you should be using the same glue if possible to limit any movements in the stock as most common wood glues have quite a bit of flex to them making them less stable.
RyanB
Ryan,
Eevery now and then I hve come across an inside blank spot. The only ooption is to sand/carve through it and hope it is not a big one.
For glue, Gorrilla Glue is best I find. It takes the weather better than any others.
When I mate my boards, I make sure there is a 90 deg difference in the grain and never match up grains to avoid them having a tendancey to twist.
My first crossbow stock is now 6 years old. Now twist, no cracks and shoots straight.
Eevery now and then I hve come across an inside blank spot. The only ooption is to sand/carve through it and hope it is not a big one.
For glue, Gorrilla Glue is best I find. It takes the weather better than any others.
When I mate my boards, I make sure there is a 90 deg difference in the grain and never match up grains to avoid them having a tendancey to twist.
My first crossbow stock is now 6 years old. Now twist, no cracks and shoots straight.
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"When I mate my boards, I make sure there is a 90 deg difference in the grain and never match up grains to avoid them having a tendancey to twist."
so from the way I see you doing this is your cutting a strip cross grain from the sheet of 5x5 at say 6" wide by 40" long for instance. Then on the mating piece you will cut a piece the same size with the grain running the normal way.
Just curious...I work with wood 7 days a week and probably a good 12+ hours a day (I own my own wood shop) but I have never got into laminating actual baltic birch like that.
I have delt with profesional laminated birch stocks already and I guess I am just used to the thinner plys of those types of stocks...they are more of a true birch venner ply at a maximum of 1/16" of an inch thick.
I think I might sit down and play with some baltic birch.
What are you doing for finishing....I have some alcohol dyes that I am curious to see if I can get more of a finish you would see in a pro built laminte stock...won`t look exactly like it though because those plys are dyied before lamination.
Ryan
so from the way I see you doing this is your cutting a strip cross grain from the sheet of 5x5 at say 6" wide by 40" long for instance. Then on the mating piece you will cut a piece the same size with the grain running the normal way.
Just curious...I work with wood 7 days a week and probably a good 12+ hours a day (I own my own wood shop) but I have never got into laminating actual baltic birch like that.
I have delt with profesional laminated birch stocks already and I guess I am just used to the thinner plys of those types of stocks...they are more of a true birch venner ply at a maximum of 1/16" of an inch thick.
I think I might sit down and play with some baltic birch.
What are you doing for finishing....I have some alcohol dyes that I am curious to see if I can get more of a finish you would see in a pro built laminte stock...won`t look exactly like it though because those plys are dyied before lamination.
Ryan
Ryan, you're knowledge of wood exceeds mine by like 1000 times. The first one I did, I had a woodworker such as yourself guide my through it. In fact, he glued and cut the blank for my crossbow.
With my gun stocks, I buy the BB in 15x15 pieces. The last stock was 4x 3/4 inch thicknesses wide. I cut my basic shapes out witha jiggsaw. When I drew the pattern onthe wood, I made sure that I I turned the grain on each one and was careful to align each part with it's mate at 90 deg. The jigsaw cutting is not precise at this point, just getting the shape. Once glued together, I shaped them with an angle grinder fitted with a coarse sanding pad. Then the real work started. Since my method of shaping is very crude, it took a fair amount of sanding to get rid of the ridges, bumps, valleys etc left by the grinder.
My gun stocks have been finished with ebony stain and a tung oil. I apply the tung oil, let it sit for 20 minutes, and wipe the piece clean (almost buffing it). Then I let it sit for 48 hours, give it a gentle steal wool treatment and repeat the process. 6 or 7 coats later, you end up with a liquid smooth surface. As you know, the more coats,, the shinier it gets. Since this is my coyote gun, I have left it in a semi-gloss state as I don't want prying eyes to know I am there until the BANG!
One problem I have found with the birch is the stainning. In my case, I am looking for a rustic/worn look so it wasn't an issue. If a person was looking for a perfectly even stain, birch can be a bitch (LOL). As you probably alreay know but I will mention it, you may need a pre-stain conidtioner if you want the stain to be even. In my case, it wasn't an issue but you can see some areas on my stoc where the lighter stripes have some darker stain in them.
Would this process be good for a high quality benchrest rifle? I wouldn't stake my life on it. For an crossbow? I think it works great. Mine still slides off the bow with almost no effort which tells me the contact is still fairly even and no noticeable pressure points have developed. The most important thing is, the bow is still a tac driver. I wouldn't sacrifice accuracuy for any mod. My objective with the crossbow is to kill em fast and ethically. If my wood stock affected the shooting by 1/2 inch, it would be gone.
This is a picture of my .223 stock with 2 coats of tung oil. Not much shine yet and you can see where there were knots, the oil stains them a rusty color. Strapped on the gun, this stock has a great rustic look. I am on coat 5 now and will be putting the buttpad on it soon. The design of this stock is kind of top heavy. that is due to the fact that the gun it goes on has a bolt coming out right where a traditional thumbhole stock has your thumb. I wanted to avoid that so I made a pistol type grip a little lower and forward giving the gun a very comfortable feel, especially laying prone. The bolt, is now in a recessed cavity above the thumbhole.
I have been wanting to build a new stock for shits and giggles, but my summer is pretty packed already. If I did, I would probably open the rail cavaity a bit more, and insert a thin foam layer to dampen the noise a little bit. The wood stocks are quieter and less shockey than the plastic but I think a thin layer of foam or bedding compound would make it even a touch better.
Anyhow, probably not telling you anything you don't already know. I guess if you are buying your wood in long narrow strip like 48x12, then you would have to simply do a 180 deg grain mate.
cheers
Paul
With my gun stocks, I buy the BB in 15x15 pieces. The last stock was 4x 3/4 inch thicknesses wide. I cut my basic shapes out witha jiggsaw. When I drew the pattern onthe wood, I made sure that I I turned the grain on each one and was careful to align each part with it's mate at 90 deg. The jigsaw cutting is not precise at this point, just getting the shape. Once glued together, I shaped them with an angle grinder fitted with a coarse sanding pad. Then the real work started. Since my method of shaping is very crude, it took a fair amount of sanding to get rid of the ridges, bumps, valleys etc left by the grinder.
My gun stocks have been finished with ebony stain and a tung oil. I apply the tung oil, let it sit for 20 minutes, and wipe the piece clean (almost buffing it). Then I let it sit for 48 hours, give it a gentle steal wool treatment and repeat the process. 6 or 7 coats later, you end up with a liquid smooth surface. As you know, the more coats,, the shinier it gets. Since this is my coyote gun, I have left it in a semi-gloss state as I don't want prying eyes to know I am there until the BANG!
One problem I have found with the birch is the stainning. In my case, I am looking for a rustic/worn look so it wasn't an issue. If a person was looking for a perfectly even stain, birch can be a bitch (LOL). As you probably alreay know but I will mention it, you may need a pre-stain conidtioner if you want the stain to be even. In my case, it wasn't an issue but you can see some areas on my stoc where the lighter stripes have some darker stain in them.
Would this process be good for a high quality benchrest rifle? I wouldn't stake my life on it. For an crossbow? I think it works great. Mine still slides off the bow with almost no effort which tells me the contact is still fairly even and no noticeable pressure points have developed. The most important thing is, the bow is still a tac driver. I wouldn't sacrifice accuracuy for any mod. My objective with the crossbow is to kill em fast and ethically. If my wood stock affected the shooting by 1/2 inch, it would be gone.
This is a picture of my .223 stock with 2 coats of tung oil. Not much shine yet and you can see where there were knots, the oil stains them a rusty color. Strapped on the gun, this stock has a great rustic look. I am on coat 5 now and will be putting the buttpad on it soon. The design of this stock is kind of top heavy. that is due to the fact that the gun it goes on has a bolt coming out right where a traditional thumbhole stock has your thumb. I wanted to avoid that so I made a pistol type grip a little lower and forward giving the gun a very comfortable feel, especially laying prone. The bolt, is now in a recessed cavity above the thumbhole.
I have been wanting to build a new stock for shits and giggles, but my summer is pretty packed already. If I did, I would probably open the rail cavaity a bit more, and insert a thin foam layer to dampen the noise a little bit. The wood stocks are quieter and less shockey than the plastic but I think a thin layer of foam or bedding compound would make it even a touch better.
Anyhow, probably not telling you anything you don't already know. I guess if you are buying your wood in long narrow strip like 48x12, then you would have to simply do a 180 deg grain mate.
cheers
Paul
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