broadhead alignment

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equipmentman
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Joined: Tue Dec 29, 2009 5:07 pm

broadhead alignment

Post by equipmentman »

I have just purchased a new exomax.(don't like thumbholes)
Target tips hit the mark, three blade broadheads fly right & high. The broadheads are replacement type weighing 150 grains w/a 2 1/2 inch cutting diameter.

Do I align one blade with the cockfeather or line one up with the string?

If the condition persists can I trouble someone for a mechanical (ugh!) broadhead recommendation.
Pydpiper
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Re: broadhead alignment

Post by Pydpiper »

I don't like the thumbholes either..

There is no need to align the heads to the fletching, it will get you absolutly nowhere. Matter of fact, there are quite a few of us who shoot 4 blade broadheads.

Getting a broadhead to hit where a feildpoint hits wont always happen, what you need to focus on is if your broadheads are consistant. I mean, if they are all high right or if it is just the odd one.
First thing I would do is number my arrows with a pen, keep track of which ones are "consistant", if they all hit high right then everything is functioning perfectly, if it is just the odd one then you need to look deeper.
One technique is to "spin" the arrow and watch for wobble, with a bit of experience you can do this in the palm of your hand but to get started you can whip up one of these, compliments of awshucks (photo at bottom). It is a 2X4 with marbles glued at each end, this will insure the arrow is held straight as you spin it with your fingers. Place some small print or other stationary mark for reference and watch the very tip as you rotate the arrow, the tip should stay true to the center of the shaft, no wobble.
If it does have wobble it is fixed 9 times out of 10 by loosening the broadhead, turing the washer between the broadhead and insert a bit, and retightening.
Consistant does not mean it will have the same point of impact as a feild point, it just means it will be consistant to the arrow shot before it, as well as the one after it.

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Boo
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Re: broadhead alignment

Post by Boo »

Look for the plastic under the limbs that sometimes extend towards the center of the riser. Fletchings may touch them especially when Blazers are used. Spin test the arrow/broadhead assembly. Number the arrows to see if it is bow related or arrow related. Do a nut and bolt check.
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Rich
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Re: broadhead alignment

Post by Rich »

Welcome!!!! Just as Pydpiper and Boo said.

Rich
equipmentman
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Re: broadhead alignment

Post by equipmentman »

Thanx for the welcome and the info.
Will post results
equipmentman
gerald strine
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Re: broadhead alignment

Post by gerald strine »

That is a huge cut head mite want a smaller head .
1st do the spin thing that advise is good stuff.
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bob1961
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Re: broadhead alignment

Post by bob1961 »

i found that using a small blade broadhead works best from xbows....in small i mean the blade itself, the bigger the hole in the blade and the smaller/narrower the edge itself is the better airflow through the blade hole or punch out made at the factory....i use slick trick 125 mag's with the 1 1/8" cut and it blows over a 2" hole in the deer i've shot to date....with the arrow tuning i did with brass inserts and weight taken off the rear of my arrows, i'm getting the tricks hitting out to 50 yards where the target tips hit....i'm using XX75"s in 2117 with 110 gr brass inserts with two 25 gr weights screwed in the back of them, 2" blazer's and trimmed downed to 7 gr alum inserts as nocks....my arrows weigh 550 gr with 21.4% FOC and fly from my exocet 200 at bout 295 fps with 102 pounds of KE that drops to bout 96 lbs at 50 yards....plus i spin test all my arrows with the BH's, any point wobble i chage to a different BH till i get no wobble on that arrow........bob

....
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sumner4991
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Re: broadhead alignment

Post by sumner4991 »

Welcome!

I do not like the small heads . . .simply because there is less cutting surface and we kill by cutting.

"No wobble" should be in bold type because that's the key. You get no wobble and you will likely get a accurate broadhead. Otherwise, if you can not get rid of the wobble, then get rid of the arrow and or broadhead . . .it will never fly correctly. I had some broadheads that the tip was cut slightly off center, not a good thing. We've all have had imperfect arrows. Poor fletching. If all these things are good and you have no wobble, then you should have an accurate broadhead.

If you go with a small blade, then at least use a four blade model . . .more cutting surface. Well, unless you enjoy long tracking jobs and lost deer.
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Re: broadhead alignment

Post by Hi5 »

equipmentman wrote:....................... The broadheads are replacement type weighing 150 grains w/a 2 1/2 inch cutting diameter............................

.
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equipmentman
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Re: broadhead alignment

Post by equipmentman »

I am using Rocky Mountain. The older ones with the longer insert threaded shaft. There is a lot of "air" between the blades.

I made a "spinner" to check "wobble" and it worked like a dream on 3 of 4 arrows. 1 arrow will not fly consistently with a broadhead attached.

My sincere thanks to all who have assisted me.
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