arrow rise or drop

[littlekitch]

on the arrow drop chart it says a 1.38 rise for a 10 yard shot at 300fps like my phoenix.thus i use th 10 yard mark on my scope.i was told by a local archer who also shoots in 3d tournaments that inside of 10 yards you should use your 20 yard mark[ which is my bow setting ] for say a 5 yard shot.can anbody verify this? i have used the 10 yard mark succesfully on turkeys but didn't take a shot on one about 10 or 12 feet which is about 3 to 4 yards because i wasn't comfortable with making it and it happened so fast though i was pinned and ready.

[wheelie]

I know with my compound shooting 3D I use my 20 pin for 10 yards and it is right on.

[blackjack]

G'DAY I USE THE TEN YARD MARK FOR A 10 YARD OR UNDER SHOT 20 YARD MARK FOR A 20 YARD SHOT & SO ON...FRANK

[CDN Taxman]

Nobody's answered his question yet though?

I'm curious too. If your arrow jumps up coming off the rail and then begins to drop, what do you use for a marker for a 5 yard shot???

I wouldn't use the 20 yard marker because you now have raised your bow higher.....how does that get the arrow to drop more?

Mike

[crazyfarmer]

i shot some 5 yard shots for fun and used the center crosshair I use for 20 yards and it was dead on at 5-7 yards:)

the arrow is normally takes a FLAT line out to 20 yards

[vixenmaster]

Yes i have used to 20 yds at 5 yds during 3-D's. Worked ok fer me, to rest yer mind try it & see!

[ComfyBear]

Since the scope is mounted approx. 2" above the rail, the arrow has to initially rise. So if you use the 20 yd marker, at 10 yds the POI will be slightly high. At an arrow speed of 300fps it's about 1" high.

However, you'll find, with an arrow speed of 300fps, that at 5yds, the POI will be identical to the one at 20yds. An arrow at that speed crosses the line of sight at 5yds (going up), reaches the top of it's trajectory at approx. 12.5 yds and the POI is about 1.4" high and then crosses the line of sight again at 20 yds (coming down).

Hope that helps.

[Ibex]

What I do is actually shoot an arrow at the different yardages and then make up a small chart which I tape to the bow. That will take into account every single variable and give you exact information.

Fran

[awshucks]

All of this over a 9" paper plate sized target [lungs]? Cfybear hit it closest, scope line of sight is about 2" above rail [arrow] and you 'Zoners know where yer at w/ 10 and 20 yd shots.

Most you can be off at any range less than 20 is 2" on a 9" sized target!!! 9" - 2" = lots of meat.

This is coming from an anal type bench rest [rifle] shooter, so gimme a break! Give yourselves one too.

[gerald strine]

On the Excalibur scopes zero the cross at 20 yards then use the area where the double wide reticule narrows to a single wide as the aiming point for ten yards and under shots and you will be eating well.

[SkOrPn]

Not to bring a very old thread back to life but it is the exact topic I want to start, so I feel it best to revive one that already has some information within it.

Last year I tried and tried to get the perfect sighting of my new Nikon, but I never felt satisfied with it. This year I have changed all my arrows to a completely different setup. I also got myself a Aim Point Arrow sighting tool to better help myself see a true visual of where the arrow should be in ideal conditions.

However, according to Excalibur and their Drop chart, a 300fps crossbow such as my Axiom with stock string should have zero drop at 20 yards. My scope is the Nikon Bolt XR with multiple aim dots out to 60 yards. The Aim Point tool manual says all I do is setup a target at 35 yards and zero in the crosshairs to the laser dot, and then go test. However Excalibur states that arrow drop on my crossbow at 20 yards is zero (0). So, wouldn't it be best I just setup the target at 20 yards, and then zero in the scope at the 20 yard crosshair to that laser dot? And then test fire at the 20 yard target for accuracy?

Any help with zeroing with this laser to the prefered distances would be greatly appreciated. Last year, no matter how hard I tried I can not seem to keep myself steady enough to feel confident about my zeroing. Thank You!

[paulaboutform]

I think I understand your question. What you're referring to is called archer's paralax.The same prprinciple that applies in vertical archery applies to horizontal archery. The faster the bow the more pronounced this will be. It involves your line of sight and the trajectory of the arrow. I'm not talking about hunting situations where if your marks all fit in the kill zone it doesn't really matter. If you're shooting 3D it will matter. There's a point where the closer you get to the target the HIGHER you'll need to aim. For example, shooting my M380, with my HHA Optimizer, at 370 fps I use my 90yard mark. At 2 yards I use my 80yard mark. You'll get to a point where you're back to your regular marks. The best thing to do is shoot your 20yard mark at one yard and see where your arrow hits. It will be low. If you're using hash marks, hold your 20yard mark on the bullseye and see which of your hash marks is on the arrow you just shot. That's your one yard mark. Move back to two yards and do the same procedure. I've shot 3D National Championships where they had a 1 1/2 yard strutting tom that my top flighted group shot fives (except me-10X ) I've taped a small card under my cheek piece with my close range yardages. Give it a try.

[nchunterkw]

Since the scope is mounted approx. 2" above the rail, the arrow has to initially rise. So if you use the 20 yd marker, at 10 yds the POI will be slightly high. At an arrow speed of 300fps it's about 1" high.

However, you'll find, with an arrow speed of 300fps, that at 5yds, the POI will be identical to the one at 20yds. An arrow at that speed crosses the line of sight at 5yds (going up), reaches the top of it's trajectory at approx. 12.5 yds and the POI is about 1.4" high and then crosses the line of sight again at 20 yds (coming down).

Hope that helps.

This is exactly right. All of our bows start the arrow at an upward angle. If you have the Hawke Ballistics App for your phone it shows this. The data for my current setup according to that is below.

Range (yds) , POI (in)
0 , -2
5 , -0.07
10 , 0.94
15 , 0.99
20 , 0.00
25 , -2.08
30 , -5.31

and so on.

[nchunterkw]

When shooting an arrow horizontal to the earth, the gravitational pull is on the whole length of the shaft causing it to be pulled to the earth sooner.

When shooting straight up or down, gravity can only pull on the end of the shaft which will cause no trajectory.

This is not correct. Gravity acts on the whole mass of the arrow at all times, pulling it in a direction perpendicular to the surface of the earth. If you actually shot "straight up" or "straight down" - meaning exactly perpendicular to the earth - gravity would still impose the same force on the arrow but it would be exactly in line with the direction of travel either adding to or subtracting from the arrow's speed.