Broadhead problems

[Legnip]

I've been trying to sight in my Equinox for awhile. Something isn't clicking. I've been getting good patterns with field points, but my broadheads have all been flyers. I've tried Rage 2 blade 100 grain, Muzzy 4-blade 125 grain, Fixed 3 blade @ 150 grain. My shafts are 2219. Any suggestions out there?

[MarkMarine]

Are those 2219s straight? Have you checked them for straightness?

Are you shooting from a benchrest or fixed rest to reduce variables?

Are you using a cocking aid to cock your bow or are you doing it by hand?

The above, and several other questions spring to mind. Begin by addressing the obvious: Check your bow thoroughly for loose screws/bolts etc. (including scope); examine your string for wear; and so forth.

[Legnip]

They should be straight. They have been shot very little.

Benchrest. The forearm is supported on a rail in the front. My elbow & shoulder are locked in and resting on another rail.

I use the cocking string w/ pulleys & T-handles.

I've checked the nuts, bolts, and everything else that I can think of that might be loose.

I may try a new string, but I'm not sure if that will help. I may try different bolts. Something a little lighter to improve the FOC.

[sumner4991]

Is it possible the vanes are hitting this plastic on the way out? If so, then trim it with box cutters.



Your riser should be clear of anything, like this . .


Otherwise, I'd start with the shafts. The field tips are flying well? How well? You should be hitting a one inch dot out to 50 yards with that rest. . .or darn close with the field tips.

[MarkMarine]

Personally, I use GT Laser II. But, I have fired your arrows before and had no issues. I know you tried all those different broadheads, but allow me to ask: even though your point of impact was different than the field points, did each broadhead group amongst themselves (where your Rage patterned a group and your Muzzy patterned a different one) or were they all just fliers?

BTW, is your string tight within the rail indicators? Too tight? Too loose?

Are your arrows seated back against the string completely before firing?

Is the string riding above the rail or against it?

One thing for certain, Bill stands behind his bows. The guarantee that comes with the bows about firing such-n-such a group at so many yards with particular arrow/broadhead combinations is etched in stone. Try the original combinations and if your bow is STILL performing as you described, send it back and have the lads at Excal take a gander at it. The reason I say this is because when you (as you know) begin chasing down problems by switching this and that around, it tends to get expensive quick LOL The warranty is Bill's word...and if you know Bill, then you know his word is his true product

[MarkMarine]

[quote="sumner4991"]Is it possible the vanes are hitting this plastic on the way out? If so, then trim it with box cutters.

Good point Sumner, I forgot to mention that. I was reading elsewhere too about some costum vanes which drug the bottom of the rail channel in another person's bow that impacted his arrow flight.

[Legnip]

I think the string is OK. Everything seems to be in the right place, not too tight or loose. The arrows are seated.

I'll check for obstructions. I haven't seen any. A 1" group at 50 yards would be unbelievable. I haven't stepped it back that far yet. I'm working things out at 30 yards. I'll put arrows about a finger width between shafts with an a flyer now and then. I'll put that up to operator error. I've numbered the shafts to look for a pattern.

[Legnip]

I see that you bow has the stops. Do they help with the noise?

[sumner4991]

The stoppers were put on to keep the string from slapping the riser. At least that was the reason I wanted them on there. This is a home made system, it worked just fine. There is some noise reduction and a few less vibes.

Spin testing is the key to good arrow flight. Broadheads will bring out the bad in an arrow . . .especially large ferrule fixed blades. Any imperfection will show up . . .even a very small one at high speeds.

You can get decent groups using a field tip with a "not so good" arrow because the vanes can control the arrow and keep it on course. However, the vanes have no chance when it comes to planing of a fixed blade broadhead at high speeds.

You do see the difference in the two pictures, right? The black plastic should be trimmed with box cutters to make it look like picture #2.

[Cossack]

If field tips fly but 'heads don't it's likely one of two issues.1) Heads are planing the arrow. 2) Arrow's FOC too low. Personally, I prefer carbons-the don't bend-GT Lazar II with 110 gr brass inserts, aluminum nocks and 2" Blazers or Fusion vanes set at righ helical, with 100 gr Slick Tricks (fixed) or Spitfire (mechanical). Of the fixed bladed type, finding that 4-bladed, low profile (short) heads fly best from my Excals. The above arrows weigh 405 grs, with +18% FOC. Works for me.

[Limbs and Sticks]

If field tips fly but 'heads don't it's likely one of two issues.1) Heads are planing the arrow. 2) Arrow's FOC too low. Personally, I prefer carbons-the don't bend-GT Lazar II with 110 gr brass inserts, aluminum nocks and 2" Blazers or Fusion vanes set at righ helical, with 100 gr Slick Tricks (fixed) or Spitfire (mechanical). Of the fixed bladed type, finding that 4-bladed, low profile (short) heads fly best from my Excals. The above arrows weigh 405 grs, with +18% FOC. Works for me.

There's a few I've found that will fly from my max, 352gr stick total weight with 2blade magnus stinger or 3blade snuffer, no prob at 350fps with 95 KE AND FOC AT 15%, there are some BH'S that won't fly if you put them in a 747, If you can build a arrow you can make most fly for you, most look for BH'S to hit same as field pts. I don't hunt with field pts. I tune my bow to where BH'S are grouping This is just what I do, to each their own.

Wes

[Legnip]

Spin check your arrows also to make sure your ferrul is alligned with the shaft so that your broadheads have no out of center movement at the point.

They spin tested great. No wobble or dance.

[Legnip]

Personally, I use GT Laser II.

I looked into these. Have you had any issues with the diameter being too small?
I think the OD for these are .337" or 21.57/64th. Excalibur recommends 22/64th OD as the minimum. I can't imagine that small of a difference making an impact, but????

[sumner4991]

Personally, I use GT Laser II.

I looked into these. Have you had any issues with the diameter being too small?
I think the OD for these are .337" or 21.57/64th. Excalibur recommends 22/64th OD as the minimum. I can't imagine that small of a difference making an impact, but????

When the diamenter gets too small, then the nock sits too low on the string. This can result in the string jumping the nock . . .or a partial dryfire.

I suppose they need to draw a line in the sand somewhere. But, I use these "lines" as guidelines.

Personally, I like the serving/string to be sitting as close to center of the nock as possible. The thickness of the string and the thickness of the serving material will offset a smaller diamenter arrow a little.

If you are shooting a small diamenter arrow and a thin string(low number of strands), then you better have a real thick serving.

The nock/serving area is the last point of contact before the arrow is launched into the air . . .it's important for that to be solid.

[vixenmaster]

Whats the fletching angle ? Straight 4degree offset or helical ? Whats the vane length ? These also play a big part in the accuracy with fixed bladed BH's.I have some 100 gr Rage 2 bladed BH's a friend sent me to try out this Fall. I have been looking at the huge dia. of these things, meaning you had better have plenty of speed & or weight to push these things through a deer if'en you hit anywhere but the ribs!