Not real happy, just picked up the Equinox

[Athena1]

I spent a good deal of money today on an new Equinox. It came with shadow scope etc.. but the bolts were Gold Tip Laser III. I got six bolts and it seems as though two of them are flyers. They shoot high left every shot. The other bolts are not grouping even at 20 yards. I have the scope set at 325 and when I try to zero it at 20 (which I can shoot all 6 bolts at 20 and not touch another bolt) I am about 5 inches high at 50 yards. So I moved the scope to 350, which with the bolt I am shooting there is no way in hell I am shooting 350. But anyway, when I did do that it brought the so called group down closer anyway. However, I am still all over the place and this is off of bags. I had an Exomag before and it was far and away a better weapon. I don't know what is going on here, but I know I am not happy with it as is. I checked the brace height and that is not it, nothing is lose. I just cant group with it.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

[Xbowkiller]

I am great also thank you. Nice to meet you and welcome to the forum.

[Boo]

I spent a good deal of money today on an new Equinox. It came with shadow scope etc.. but the bolts were Gold Tip Laser III. I got six bolts and it seems as though two of them are flyers. They shoot high left every shot. The other bolts are not grouping even at 20 yards. I have the scope set at 325 and when I try to zero it at 20 (which I can shoot all 6 bolts at 20 and not touch another bolt) I am about 5 inches high at 50 yards. So I moved the scope to 350, which with the bolt I am shooting there is no way in hell I am shooting 350. But anyway, when I did do that it brought the so called group down closer anyway. However, I am still all over the place and this is off of bags. I had an Exomag before and it was far and away a better weapon. I don't know what is going on here, but I know I am not happy with it as is. I checked the brace height and that is not it, nothing is lose. I just cant group with it.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

What is your location?
Where did you buy the bow?
What fletchings are you using?
Are you using a rope cocker?
Have you tried shooting just one arrow several times to see if it has the same point of impact with every shot?
Are the rear nocks perfect?

Here are some instuctions on how to set up your scope past 20 yards. If you think about it different weights of arrows, tips and inserts will not work the same so those markings are relative.

First is to shoot from 20 yards and zero in your center crosshairs on the bullseye of your target. Once you have done this you never move the crosshair adjustment again.
Second, you step back to 40 yards. Place your center crosshairs on the bulleye and shoot a group of arrows while holding the center crosshairs on the bullseye. Your group will be several inches below the bullseye. Now while holding the center crosshairs on the bullseye adjust the speed ring so that the second cheveron down is on the group of arrows you just shot. Tape the speed ring so it will not move. Now double check your 10, 20, 30 and 40 yard groups at the respective ranges.

[Athena1]

I am in Perryopolis PA.
I bought it at Louie D's Archery.
The fletchings are 4".
I am using a rope cocker.

I was using just one bolt for the longest time and just had to say something was wrong with that bolt and started using a different one.

I weighed them all at the shop and all but one weighed in at 423 or 432 (not sure now) the other was slightly heavier.

As far as the nocks, they are not glued in they have the tape that you wrap around thread so you don't have a leak.

While zeroing it at 20 yds (if I can, haven't been able to yet) where should I place the speed ring, 350 or lower?

Thank you very much for your help!!

[Boo]

I am in Perryopolis PA.
I bought it at Louie D's Archery.
The fletchings are 4".
I am using a rope cocker.

I was using just one bolt for the longest time and just had to say something was wrong with that bolt and started using a different one.

I weighed them all at the shop and all but one weighed in at 423 or 432 (not sure now) the other was slightly heavier.

As far as the nocks, they are not glued in they have the tape that you wrap around thread so you don't have a leak.

While zeroing it at 20 yds (if I can, haven't been able to yet) where should I place the speed ring, 350 or lower?

Thank you very much for your help!!

It does not matter where you have the speed ring when zeroing your center crosshairs.
A nut and bolt check should be done with the bow not strung. If the bow is strung you can't tell if it is tight. There are black plastic rectangular shims under the limbs and if they extend in towards each other into the broadhead pocket of the riser they can be hit by the fletchings (usually a problem with Blazer vanes).
It's unusual that you have erratic flight with target points and if all else checks out then a close look should be had at the scope. I assume everything is new? If everything above is right try another scope.
If all else fails call Danny Miller in Sardis Ohio 740 483 2312.

[one shot scott]

There is teflon tape on the inserts?? Front, rear or both?

[Boo]

One more thing. When checking consistency with one arrow mark one vane and put it in the slot of the rail every time. Do this check with all of your arrows in unthinkable case that all the arrows are culls. Not likely but if it is the arrows and you don't do the above you'll go crazy!
Make sure your serving is perfect.

[awshucks]

Welcome to the forum if these guys can't solve your problem, Danny will.

Not that this is related to your problem, but those GT weights seem strange to me. Do you have 125 gr points on them?

[Athena1]

Before I even fired it once I went around to every bolt on the crossbow and tried snugging it up a bit. After that I put a very slight mark on every bolt with red paint so I would be able to tell if one of the bolt were getting lose on me.

The teflon tape is only on the nocks.

I have 100gr points, should I have 125gr points?

I put my white fletching in the slot every time.

I have not checked to see if the fletching were hitting anything. I will be doing this asap.

Thank you all so much!!

[robertyb]

I can't help but wonder if that teflon tape has your nocks out of square with the arrows. It could easily make a good arrow into a flyer.

[Athena1]

Not sure if the tape would have anything to do with it or not. But I did check all of my fletchings and there are no rub marks on any of them.

I am going to number each bolt 1-6 on one of the fletchings and write down were it hits every shot. Don't know why I am gonna do this, but maybe it will tell me something.

[robertyb]

If those two fliers persist try using a different vane as the cock vane and see if that makes any difference.

[Onetimeonly x-->]

Bottom line is your asking the right questions you'll figure it out.
These are the folks who will help you out. Their time and knowledge
is free! Best deal on the web! Welcome to the show!

[nchunterkw]

Check the tiller of the bow....it is how square the string crosses the rail. Either measure back from the limb where it comes out of the riser, or use a carpenters square. If the string is not square, it means the limbs are of different weights slightly.
Another thing you might try is to unstring it, and remove and replace all the screws using the Blue Loctite threadlocker.
How about brace height? If everything is new, the string could be creeping. I would not expect erractic flight from that, but rather a slow change in POI.
One other thing...sounds dumb but hey.......are you holding the front of the bow during the shot or just resting it on the bags? Hold the front slightly and watch the arrow hit the target through the scope (follow through).

Don't worry. You will get it. These are awesome bows. There is an explanation.

[Horizontal Hunter]

Welcome to the forum. You had an Exomag and and said that you checked the fasteners so you know that at 20 yards your biggest problem is breaking arrows with other arrows.

The first thing that I would do is number the arrows.

Second thing I would do is take the two flyers and swap out the field points on them. I know it sounds stupid but I have has Saunders field points that were not concentric cause the problem. I am assuming that you are shooting field points.

The other thing I would do is take the arrows that are producing the flyers and put a different fletching (not the cock fletching in the channel on the rail and see how they shoot with a different fletching in the rail. Sometimes this makes a difference on the GT Laser II's.

Bob