To Wrap or Not To Wrap??? That is the question..

[Nighthunter]

My apologies for the Shakespear, but another newbie question here.. I have my Arizona EZ fletcher, I have my 2" Bohning Blazer Vanes, my Bohning shaft cleaner, and enough different vane glues to keep me busy forever, but I was watching some fletching videos and noticed someone rolling adhesive wraps on their arrows before fletching. I realize that they were fletching arrows for a vertical bow, but my questions are: Do they make wraps for crossbow bolts, and if so, what size do I need. Second question: Do I really need them at all, or should I just glue the vanes directly onto the Laser GTII shafts? Thank you all for your advice and tips! This site has some really helpful and knowledgeable folks on it!!!!

[bob watkins]

just keep in mind every thing you put on the back of the arrow can change the spine some

[Ont_Excal]

My apologies for the Shakespear, but another newbie question here.. I have my Arizona EZ fletcher, I have my 2" Bohning Blazer Vanes, my Bohning shaft cleaner, and enough different vane glues to keep me busy forever, but I was watching some fletching videos and noticed someone rolling adhesive wraps on their arrows before fletching. I realize that they were fletching arrows for a vertical bow, but my questions are: Do they make wraps for crossbow bolts, and if so, what size do I need. Second question: Do I really need them at all, or should I just glue the vanes directly onto the Laser GTII shafts? Thank you all for your advice and tips! This site has some really helpful and knowledgeable folks on it!!!!

Wraps are made for arrows by diameter of the shaft.
They are not made for a type of bow.
You don't need wraps on your arrows to fletch them. They are just another way to customize your arrows.
I fletch the vanes right to the bare shaft.

[wabi]

Depending on the fletching adhesive and the arrow shaft used there is always a possibility of adhesion problems with vanes glued directly to the shaft. I have found a few combinations of arrows, adhesive, and vanes that just didn't work.
Wraps pretty much eliminate that problem!

[Ont_Excal]

Wabi, you are correct.
Early on I had some issues with carbon arrows but they seem to be all good lately.
Doesn't mean that there aren't any issues still.

I use mostly aluminum arrows and have had no issues other than I let some glue get old.

Removing just vanes for a re-fletch is a lot easier or do you have an easy method for wraps as well??

[Big John]

This is one of those debates that never ends. Wrap or not to wrap. Some will , some wont. If your using lighted nocks then recovery of expensive arrows and broadheads becomes much easier. If using florescent wraps, then recovery is a little less easy but still much easier than arrows without either of these. And if you use both with a florescent wrap, the lighted nock lights up the the whole arrow end like a flashlight. You can find your arrows under snow, in mud, under grass, etc. Without these, your odds of recovering the arrow are reduced alot. But the arrows will always work perfectly with or without any of the above. To me, its about recovery.

[houser52]

I tried wraps for awhile but took them off all of my arrows. I hated the plastic residue left on the rail after a couple shots. The plastic wrap smears all the way out the rail and is a pain to get off.

[Nighthunter]

Thank you all for the sage advice! I believe I'll start without wraps and see how it goes. I only shoot lighted nocks when hunting so recovery is easier...