Assembly Torque

[Ont_Excal]

A small dab of blue is not the end of the world . I have put it on my riser and stirrup screws because it prevents the steel to aluminum problem with screws .
As for torque settings . Tight not johnson bar tight though .

Same as what I do.
I let the blue Loctite dry on the bolts and then assemble.
My risers on both my bows have not moved since doing this.

As you said if the hardware is not coated then it could suffer bimetal corrosion. Although not much of an issue if you disassemble your bow once a year.
I leave mine together once I get them set up.

[shafferm]

Blue Loctite and let the hex keys determine how much torque. Tighten until the wrench just starts to flex. Seems to scale fairly well as it takes less torque the smaller the size of the bolt you are tightening.

[BigBadJohn]

Tighten down the bolts until the threads strip out, then back off 1/8 turn. Should be about perfect.

[quincyp]

OK,

Here is some free knowledge that you would be charged for at most gun/bowshops. Yeah, I might be a gunsmith!

I used the wheeler wrench on mine (cabelas). I used 25 inch pounds on most of the small bolts. I think (didn't write it down... ) I used 50 inch pounds on the main assebly bolts. I used blue lock tite on all the bolts. Nothing has come loose after 250 shots.

"Red lock tite secret" or "nightmare prevention": Use a soldering iron and stick it in the bolt head to heat it up for a few mins. This will soften the lock tite and you can back the screw out without stripping the hex. Works better than a torch for controlling the heat, and you wont "burn" your gun/bow.

What does the lock tite give you:
Blue locktight will add about 5-8 "more" inchpounds of backout force. So if you tighten a bolt to 20 inch pounds with blue loc tite, it will take about 25 to 28 inch pounds to break it loose, once it cures. Red lock tight will add about 10-12 more inch pounds of backout force (unless you heat it up... ) No reason to use red on your excal!

Scope rings (critical): use an inch pound torque wrench. for aluminum rings/components (15 inch pounds max!) for steel wrings/components (20 to 25 inch pounds max!). It takes suprisingly little torque!
Most scope adjustment problems are caused by "bubba torque" on the rings, and this causes deformation of the scope tube. A deformend or crushed tube will cause the windage and/or elevation ajustments to be sporadic, or not work at all. Many times the owner removes the scope (and therefore the excessive torque) and sends the supposed "defective" scope back to the manufacurer. Once there, the manufacurer cannot find anyting wrong with the scope!

Use blue lock tight and the screws will stay tight. The purpose of the blue lock tight is to "maintain" your proper torque settings, without you having to over torque to compensate for vibration. I used 20 inch pounds on the base screws of my shadow zone factory mounts. On the rings/scope, I used 15 inch pounds and made sure the gaps were equal on both sides. I also used blue lock tight on all the scope bolts. 250 shots in and no issues, scope is dead on and no loose screws (I rechecked with the torque wrench).

I am not an engineer, but I hate stuff coming loose on my weapons.

Hope this helps.

[blueflame]

Tighten down the bolts until the threads strip out, then back off 1/8 turn. Should be about perfect.

[blueflame]

OK,

Here is some free knowledge that you would be charged for at most gun/bowshops. Yeah, I might be a gunsmith!

I used the wheeler wrench on mine (cabelas). I used 25 inch pounds on most of the small bolts. I think (didn't write it down... ) I used 50 inch pounds on the main assebly bolts. I used blue lock tite on all the bolts. Nothing has come loose after 250 shots.

"Red lock tite secret" or "nightmare prevention": Use a soldering iron and stick it in the bolt head to heat it up for a few mins. This will soften the lock tite and you can back the screw out without stripping the hex. Works better than a torch for controlling the heat, and you wont "burn" your gun/bow.

What does the lock tite give you:
Blue locktight will add about 5-8 "more" inchpounds of backout force. So if you tighten a bolt to 20 inch pounds with blue loc tite, it will take about 25 to 28 inch pounds to break it loose, once it cures. Red lock tight will add about 10-12 more inch pounds of backout force (unless you heat it up... ) No reason to use red on your excal!

Scope rings (critical): use an inch pound torque wrench. for aluminum rings/components (15 inch pounds max!) for steel wrings/components (20 to 25 inch pounds max!). It takes suprisingly little torque!
Most scope adjustment problems are caused by "bubba torque" on the rings, and this causes deformation of the scope tube. A deformend or crushed tube will cause the windage and/or elevation ajustments to be sporadic, or not work at all. Many times the owner removes the scope (and therefore the excessive torque) and sends the supposed "defective" scope back to the manufacurer. Once there, the manufacurer cannot find anyting wrong with the scope!

Use blue lock tight and the screws will stay tight. The purpose of the blue lock tight is to "maintain" your proper torque settings, without you having to over torque to compensate for vibration. I used 20 inch pounds on the base screws of my shadow zone factory mounts. On the rings/scope, I used 15 inch pounds and made sure the gaps were equal on both sides. I also used blue lock tight on all the scope bolts. 250 shots in and no issues, scope is dead on and no loose screws (I rechecked with the torque wrench).

I am not an engineer, but I hate stuff coming loose on my weapons.

Hope this helps.

nice one, this is what i am talking about.

[Boo]

SAE and DIN set out guidelines and property class ya bunch of hillbillies! All fasteners are dry unless specified.
if I have some time I'll see if I can find the info.

http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/A_F ... Charts.pdf

http://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/torque.htm

http://www.thelenchannel.com/1torque.php