Leveling a Scope

[racking up points]

This has probably been discussed before, but I stumbled upon a good way to level a scope while installing my Trigger Tech.

Since I had the stock and trigger off, I realized I could get the mainframe nice and level if I removed the front sling stud, (mainframe-riser bolts already removed).

Using a granite counter top, and I verified it to be level, I laid the mainframe down. I checked to ensure the rail was now level, and aimed the scope at some mini blinds, about 10y away. They acted as a perfect plumb line and the horizontal slats matched up perfectly with the horizontal line of my crosshairs. It was very simple because I already had the bow disassembled. Once assembled, I verified level again.

This is a good method for someone that doesn't have a gun rest/vice or has their bow disassembled for tinkering.

[wheelie]

Your idea is good.

I just level mine looking through the scope and lining the twenty yard crosshair with both limbs.

[ComfyBear]

I do something similiar to 'rup", without having to disassemble anything. In my basement I have a table, which I use as my bench-rest. I place my plastic archery box/toolbox on the table, upon which I rest my crossbow. Using a bubble level, I level the box and crossbow so the limbs are level. Twelve yards away I hang a rope/plumb line. Since the limbs are level, all that's left to do is rotate the scope until the vertical reticle lines up with the plumb line. Tighten my rings and I'm done.

[bobcattrapper]

I just close my eyes and bring it up open eyes looking at a object.When everything looks level to my eyes I tighten the rings a little then recheck a few more times the same way.We all cant a rifle or bow to some degree so all this high tech leveling stuff is a moot point to me.But if its sells and you like it buy into it.Only exception is if I was shooting really long distances like 500 yds or more.Then the margin of error can show up.Been doing my way for years when a Top gunsmith I went to used this method.I think he had too many problems with customers saying the crossears were crooked to them when they picked there gun up.So he quit all the plum level high tech way.When you do my way with a variable power turn it up to highest power too.I think we can make something so simple too complex at times.

[newbie]

I do something similiar to 'rup", without having to disassemble anything. In my basement I have a table, which I use as my bench-rest. I place my plastic archery box/toolbox on the table, upon which I rest my crossbow. Using a bubble level, I level the box and crossbow so the limbs are level. Twelve yards away I hang a rope/plumb line. Since the limbs are level, all that's left to do is rotate the scope until the vertical reticle lines up with the plumb line. Tighten my rings and I'm done.

yatzee x2

[strum]

I agree with the guy who said he sets his by eye..i can look through mine and know if its off...but I still check it with either a 4' level line on the wall or the plumb line.
I think the plumb line is the best, after all the vertical line in the scope is what we are trying to get right.

[racking up points]

I just close my eyes and bring it up open eyes looking at a object.When everything looks level to my eyes I tighten the rings a little then recheck a few more times the same way.We all cant a rifle or bow to some degree so all this high tech leveling stuff is a moot point to me.But if its sells and you like it buy into it.Only exception is if I was shooting really long distances like 500 yds or more.Then the margin of error can show up.Been doing my way for years when a Top gunsmith I went to used this method.I think he had too many problems with customers saying the crossears were crooked to them when they picked there gun up.So he quit all the plum level high tech way.When you do my way with a variable power turn it up to highest power too.I think we can make something so simple too complex at times.

To each his own. I only did this because the bow was in pieces. I'm not suggesting you strip down the bow to do this.

Using a plumb line isn't really high tech but if your scope does in fact have crossears then its way more advanced than mine!

[strum]

I just close my eyes and bring it up open eyes looking at a object.When everything looks level to my eyes I tighten the rings a little then recheck a few more times the same way.We all cant a rifle or bow to some degree so all this high tech leveling stuff is a moot point to me.But if its sells and you like it buy into it.Only exception is if I was shooting really long distances like 500 yds or more.Then the margin of error can show up.Been doing my way for years when a Top gunsmith I went to used this method.I think he had too many problems with customers saying the crossears were crooked to them when they picked there gun up.So he quit all the plum level high tech way.When you do my way with a variable power turn it up to highest power too.I think we can make something so simple too complex at times.

To each his own. I only did this because the bow was in pieces. I'm not suggesting you strip down the bow to do this.

Using a plumb line isn't really high tech but if your scope does in fact have crossears then its way more advanced than mine!

[antler fool]

Here's what I do,
First you need a good size mirror and a rest somewhere in front of it that you can set the crossbow on while looking thru the scope at the reflection of your crossbow. Turn the power down on your scope and just line up the tips of your crossbows limbs with your scope's horizontal crosshair, then tighten down your rings and recheck everything you should be dead level. Works perfect every time. Hope this helps.

[ComfyBear]

We all cant a rifle or bow to some degree so all this high tech leveling stuff is a moot point to me.

Bobcattrapper, I agree that we all cant a rifle or bow. With a rifle which uses a single reticle scope and doesn't have a "rainbow" trajectory, I agree that it's a moot point.

However with a crossbow, when using a multi-reticle scope, it is paramount that the horizontal axis is parallel to the limbs, since it guarantees that the vertical reticle is perpendicular to them.

Why is it necessary, well like you state, 'we all cant a rifle or bow', and the human eye when looking through the scope will automatically level the horizontal reticle. Therefore if the reticle is level to the limbs, it assures that the limbs are level, and the vertical reticle plumb.

Since a crossbow has a "rainbow trajectory, when using a multi-reticle scope it is very important that the scope is plumb. When using the 20yd crosshair/aimpoint, it doesn't make as much of a difference since the point of aim (POI) isn't affected as much if the crossbow/scope is canted.

However, when using the other aiming points, it's be more crucial. The reason is that if the scope is canted (either to the left or right) then the POI will move in that direction. The further the distance to the target, the greater the margin of error will be, to either the left or right of the target.

Hopefully made it clear and you understand what I'm saying. If you don't, I ask that you trust me, since I've been shooting Excalibur with scopes for over 24 years, and when I first started I've been there and done that, and learned the hard way.

Luckily it was only on targets and not live game.

[bobcattrapper]

We all cant a rifle or bow to some degree so all this high tech leveling stuff is a moot point to me.

Bobcattrapper, I agree that we all cant a rifle or bow. With a rifle which uses a single reticle scope and doesn't have a "rainbow" trajectory, I agree that it's a moot point.

However with a crossbow, when using a multi-reticle scope, it is paramount that the horizontal axis is parallel to the limbs, since it guarantees that the horizontal reticle is paralell to them. I'll tell you why.

Llike you state, 'we all cant a rifle or bow'. Well, the human eye when looking through the scope will automatically level the horizontal reticle. Therefore if the reticle is level to the limbs, it assures that the limbs are level, and the vertical reticle plumb.

With a crossbow using a multi-reticle scope it is very important that the scope is plumb. When using the 20yd crosshair/aimpoint, it doesn't make a difference since the point of aim (POI) isn't affected and doesn't change if the crossbow/scope is canted.

However, when using the other aiming points, it does matter and it is critical. The reason is that if the scope is canted (either to the left or right) then the POI will move in that direction. The further the distance to the target, the greater the margin of error will be, to either the left or right of the target.

Hopefully made it clear and you understand what I'm saying. If you don't, I ask that you trust me, since I've been shooting Excalibur with scopes for over 24 years, and when I first started I've been there and done that, and learned the hard way.

Luckily it was only on targets and not live game.

Thats good to know as I'm still learning this crossbow stuff.Thanks for your reply.

[JPjunkie]

Thats the reason this forum is so popular is because of the knowledge people like Comfy are so willing to share and thats the tip of the iceberg as far as knowledge this forum is chock full Saves us newbies the mistakes and shows the short cuts I myself appreciate all the wisdom these guys share its like the commercial its priceless Thanks Comfy

[racking up points]

When I first set up my wife's Vixen I tried to just eye it up when determining the correct scope level.

At 20y, no issues. But at 30-50y, the left-right was off by inches.

I checked the scope's level with a plumb line and I was out of level by a few degrees. Shoots like it should now.

I don't ever pretend to be an expert, I'm still learning and this forum is THE place for guys like me to gain some insight from those who've been shooting these bows for years.