HELP!?

[IronNoggin]

Hi Folks,

Need a little quick advise here...

Yesterday i was prepping my Matrix 380 for today's impending shoot with some Buddies. That included a new Boo String, and installing a Trigger Tech Target (Single Stage) Trigger. The bow hasn't been apart since hunting season here, so I was not surprised that a few of the bolts were a little "resistant".

Upon re-assembling the bow, the bolt that connects the barrel to the stock under the forearm would not tighten. Huh? Pulled it apart to have a look, and it appears the threaded hole where the bolt runs into (on the underside of the barrel) has become a little stripped. The bolt will engage, but is a little loose and will not tighten down...

I ran some Lock Tite into and let it sit overnight, but the problem persists. So, cancelled today's shoot (DAMMIT) and am hoping to rectify this issue so we can re-schedule tomorrow.

My thought is to simply find a replacement bolt just a smidge larger and replace the one that no longer tightens down. My Question to you is: Will that work, and is it Safe?
If not, any other ideas would be Greatly Appreciated!!

Hoping someone here might be able to enlighten...

Missing My Shooting!
Nog

[awshucks]

Had same problem once. I used a Heli-coil[same size]. Works swell........

Edited to add: Get a steel nut that size and run the screws thru it to remove the old Loc-tite if you used it. It gets hard and will eat the alum rail.....

[xcaliber]

Larger in diameter is not a good idea. I don't think it will make it's own threads that will hold up. I would get a bolt maybe 3/16" longer, and try that. Make sure it does not bottom out, first install it snug, make sure all is good, then remove it, locktite it, and give it a good snugging this last time.

Good Luck Nog.

[Pydpiper]

I slid a regular nut in to the hole, with a dab of rubber cement.
The bolt grabbed the threads and the rubber cement allowed the nut to shift in to place without losing it, it was quick, easy and permanent.

[IronNoggin]

The bolt already runs right through the hole it is intended to seat in, so extending will not solve the problem methinks.

Only ONE place in this little Backwater we call home carries Helicoils, but methinks Awshucks nailed the quickest solution. Saddling up, running down there, and HOPING they have the right size! If so, methinks I will run the inserts into both mounting holes to prevent further incidences down the road...

Good idea on the trick to get shed of the old Lock-Tite. Methinks that was exactly my original issue here...

If they don't have the right size, probably go with Pydpiper's suggestion of a nut and rubber cement.

Thanks HUGE Gentz! Kinda figured I could count on y'all for some sound advise! Very Much Appreciated!

Hopefully shooting tomorrow...

Cheers,
Nog

[Boo]

Matt, the best solution is a new riser. Your second best is a Timesert. http://www.timesert.com/
We use them when someone overheats their engines and the headbolt threads have lost their temper. Most high end shops have the set up to do the repair. It is a very good, sensible, permanent repair and it should not cost you more than $20 to $30.

[IronNoggin]

OUCH!
Way to far away from Excalibur's shop to consider a new riser! That would mean a significant down-time during what little I have left before wandering offshore, and upon my return, I simply want to focus on Black Bears, not twiddling.

Will try the Helicoil to get me through tomorrow and the next, then check into that "Timesert" with the shops in town. That looks like a REAL permanent fix alright...

Thanks Don!

Off to the store...

Cheers,
Nog

[bobcattrapper]

Had same problem once. I used a Heli-coil[same size]. Works swell........

Edited to add: Get a steel nut that size and run the screws thru it to remove the old Loc-tite if you used it. It gets hard and will eat the alum rail.....

So loc tite eats aluminum? Never heard that before.

[awshucks]

Had same problem once. I used a Heli-coil[same size]. Works swell........

Edited to add: Get a steel nut that size and run the screws thru it to remove the old Loc-tite if you used it. It gets hard and will eat the alum rail.....

So loc tite eats aluminum? Never heard that before.

It crusts up. Check a Loc-tited bolt/screw where the threads didn't make contact.

Nog, those threads are S.A.E. You may have to order a Timesert or Helicoil on line. Metrics, ya know? lol.....

[strum]

oops

[strum]

the nut trick is your fastest fix you could be shooting within mins...if you have a nut that fits. take the riser off ..tape the nut to a flat popsicle stick(or something long enough and reach in there to the spot run you screw tight and move on ..then you do the fix don suggested when time is on your side

[IronNoggin]

Nog, those threads are S.A.E. You may have to order a Timesert or Helicoil on line. Metrics, ya know? lol.....

Just back from the shop, and damn Happy to report they had the EXACT size of Helicoil I needed! We're in Canada awshucks, and they tend to stock pretty well everything in both Metric & 'Merican.

Never even seen these things before, let alone install them. But the mechanic on site was more than generous with sharing the how-to's (thus my late arrival back home). Think it may well work until I can get the more permanent thing going Boo noted... About to Attack the matter and see...

Again, THANKS! Just one of the Many Reasons this Forum feels so much like Home!

Cheers,
Nog

[Normous]

Why are a couple guys taking about risers when Nog has a stripped stock to mainframe screw?

[Limbs and Sticks]

Don't know if fixed yet or not, but I a got a cheap main frame all screws inlets messed up, I drilled taped 4 holes next size up and bought new stainless bolts to fit, done deal

[8ptbuk]

Hope you got the helicoil kit , It comes with the correct size drill bit and a tool to thread the heilicoil in with . Great way to fixed something stripped in aluminum . you got good advice !