Building Arrows

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dewy
Posts: 80
Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2011 9:47 pm
Location: Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia

Building Arrows

Post by dewy »

I've spent the last few hours here, and a few other sites, doing some research regarding building arrows. I believe that I have the basic info figured out but wanted to run it by you guys to make sure. So if you have a moment......

Start by cleaning inside of the shaft with acetone to remove any residue. Heat up insert, apply Bohning Ferr-L-Tite glue and push in. Wipe off residue and allow to cool. Repeat for nock. For the vanes wipe down shaft with alcohol, place blazers in EZ Fletch Bolt, apply Gorilla Glue Blue Top, and tighten up the EZ Fletch. Allow to sit a few minutes and remove the arrow.

Did I miss anything or would you recommend using different adhesives? I'll be using BEE's and either 92 or 100 inserts for my arrows.

Thanks!
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xcaliber
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Re: Building Arrows

Post by xcaliber »

Dewy, it sounds like you have a good place to start. I like the G5 Blu-Glu, works great, and easy to see. Is it the best, I don't know. There have been some inserts coming out of the Black Eagles, it happened to me too. I called them to get their skinny on what might be going on. I used to be a Gold Tip user, and never had this happen, so I thought it might be me, or their arrows. They recommend to use a .030 caliber brush to clean the bore, and use no cleaners!!! No alcohol, no acetone. Just clean out the residue carbon dust with a gun bore patch, or Q-Tip dry!!
I use Bohning Insert Iron, it takes 72 hours to cure, and I also found Gorilla Super Glue works great too. Black Eagle recommends their glue, and it is top shelf as well.
I don't use all the things I did when I started, and I'm sure you too will switch this, or that as you get into it!
Good luck, and have fun!!
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strum
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Re: Building Arrows

Post by strum »

don't forget to square your shafts and inserts
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Boo
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Re: Building Arrows

Post by Boo »

I will add;
I stick my shafts into a can of acetone and shake it side to side, hitting the mouth of the can. Then I take it out and whip the shaft in the air to get rid of the acetone and carbon dust that might still be hanging in the shaft. I do that 3 times.
I knurl the insert between 2 coarse files and wash them with acetone.
I set the two components aside for a few hours until there is no smell of acetone. After using acetone, I no longer touch the glue surfaces with my fingers.
Regardless of which glue I use ( I use blue top Gorilla glue), I put a bead on the the inside edge of the shaft as well as the small end of the insert. I also twist when inserting the insert, watching that I see a bead glue preceding the edge of the insert, which tells you that there is enough glue. BTW, I find 24 hr epoxy marginally better than the cyanoacrylate glues. The slower the glue, the better it penetrates the pore of the shaft.
For years, I thought acetone would compromise the shaft until I put the wrong inserts in a shaft and had to cut the end off the shaft to start over again. I put the ends with the glued inserts into a container. The inserts would not come out the next day. In fact it took a week in the container to soften the glue but it did not seem to harm the shaft.

Dan, I had a small percentage or so of my BEA that had the inserts factory glued come lose. Enough to pee me off! I do not hear of any inserts coming out of my arrows when I use Gorilla glue. A few came out when I used Bohning's Insert Iron, but in fairness I had to use 2 feet on my Reinhart, pulling a Toxic and another time a large mechanical that accidentally deployed.
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dewy
Posts: 80
Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2011 9:47 pm
Location: Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia

Re: Building Arrows

Post by dewy »

Good stuff! Thanks for the insight guys.
Micro 335
15" BEE's
125gr Shwackers
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