set screws in the nocks?

[W.Miguire]

I read about some one putting set screws In the knocks to take up the weight of the lumenoks so you don't have to practice with them. thought it to be worth a try. so of I went to the local hardware store with my gram scale and my knocks . what the heck are you doing now Bill? the clerk ask. I don't know yet , show me your set screws . so I got out my scale and found a screw that fit in the knock end . yep this is the one 10/24just fit and did not changed the structure of the knock at all . took them home and installed them with a drop of glue . and it worked. don't know who posted it , but want to thank you for the idea.
W.M.

[racking up points]

I read about some one putting set screws In the knocks to take up the weight of the lumenoks so you don't have to practice with them. thought it to be worth a try. so of I went to the local hardware store with my gram scale and my knocks . what the heck are you doing now Bill? the clerk ask. I don't know yet , show me your set screws . so I got out my scale and found a screw that fit in the knock end . yep this is the one 10/24just fit and did not changed the structure of the knock at all . took them home and installed them with a drop of glue . and it worked. don't know who posted it , but want to thank you for the idea.
W.M.

Normous posted about this a while ago. It works great. A drop of glue, then thread that set screw in and voila...weight-matched for a lumenock.

On a side note, BassPro had a sale on the Lumenock batteries and I bought a lifetime supply. If anyone needs a pack, let me know.

[StormDragon]

Being the brain dead individual I am at the moment, could someone please post a few pics of the process and how everything looks etc.

Thanks in advance

George

[W.Miguire]

no big deal. just screw a 1/2"- 10/32 set screw into the back end of a plastic nock. with a drop of glue. take your scale to the store to be sure. good luck.
W.M.

[paulaboutform]

Hey Bill. I think that was me as i recently posted that but as racking up points mentioned, that is Normous' idea as that's where I heard it. That Norman is certainly a wealth of knowledge and full of helpful tidbits of great information. I'm glad the screw in nock technique worked out for you.

Paul

[awshucks]

Might have started by me trying to change the FOC. Didn't do much, same size groups at 50 yds but they hit lower on the target. A 1" threaded steel rod weighs 25 gr. I got them at Ace Hdwe.

p.sp they sold me 6" long rods, I cut them to whatever length I needed and then cut a slot in the end for a screwdriver..........put loc-tite on them.

[Hawkeyemd]

For Your Info.: Cam-X makes aluminum nocks that weigh the same as the Lumenocks weigh!! The ones I got are for .300 i.d. They have the threads just like Excal's. do, so you don't have to glue them in. This lets you use the same arrows that you hunt with!! Good Idea!! Regards, Hawkeyemd

[Normous]

Here is a Lumenok on the left, middle photo- is a Black Eagle plastic rear nock with a 8/32" 20 grain aluminum insert glued in and right is a 20 grain aluminum insert.
I have since switched to a 8/32" 20 grain steel insert that does not protrude the BE plastic nock.

[W.Miguire]

I tried the 8/32 and was a little sloppy for me so I went with 10 /24 the tread was courser and grabbed the side of the nock . did not need any glue but used it for safety . do whatever works for you.
thanks Norm for the tip it what makes this place so special
W.M.

[Normous]

I tried the 8/32 and was a little sloppy for me so I went with 10 /24 the tread was courser and grabbed the side of the nock . did not need any glue but used it for safety . do whatever works for you.
W.M.

The 10/24 is a good idea as well. Thanks.

[john g]

I'd like to add my thanks here also, to Anthony for posting the "Micro Arrow Soup" post and Racking up Points for his answer to that post. That's where this discussion started for me. Racking Up's description of his arrow setup "turned the light on" for me. I knew I had to balance the nock to compensate for the lighted nock. I'm new to this crossbow world and appreciate the help you folks give me.

Garry

[paulaboutform]

I tried the 8/32 and was a little sloppy for me so I went with 10 /24 the tread was courser and grabbed the side of the nock . did not need any glue but used it for safety . do whatever works for you.
W.M.

The 10/24 is a good idea as well. Thanks.

Norm, that's excellent! Simplicity and genius. I'll be doing a changeover to all my plastic nocks and going to 125 grain points to give my arrows the same balance but 45 grains more hitting power total weight. Thanks.

[racking up points]

I tried the 8/32 and was a little sloppy for me so I went with 10 /24 the tread was courser and grabbed the side of the nock . did not need any glue but used it for safety . do whatever works for you.
W.M.

The 10/24 is a good idea as well. Thanks.

Norm, that's excellent! Simplicity and genius. I'll be doing a changeover to all my plastic nocks and going to 125 grain points to give my arrows the same balance but 40 grains more hitting power total weight. Thanks.

Sorry to be OT...but Paul, when you make a change like this in your arrow setup, do you need to take off your old HHA tape and make another?

[Bullzeye]

We need a sticky with just great ideas like this one.

[paulaboutform]

Hey Derrick, I'm making some 'changes' to my setup so I'll have to see what my speed is with the extra 45gr.. I'm guessing it will be a tape change.