Practice vs. Hunting Arrows

[racking up points]

Im new on this site and wanted to ask if anybody notice a difference shooting out at distance with capturenocks ..Im shooting a matrix 380 20 inch black excutioner 3 inch bohing vanes ..Just was wondering if anybody on here has tested them out

Send Vixenmaster a PM, (I think I remember reading that he was using them out of on of his bows), or start a new thread with your question for more replies. Personally, I see no benefit from using them but then again I never tried!

[venison]

Ive been shooting my matrix 380 and 350 se I bought 2 brand new hawke xb30 scopes for my girls and my big girl the 380 will not stay dialed in on the up and down turret .. this has been going on for 3 weeks im loosing my mind.. : Ive checked every nut and bolt on the bow after checking i lock tight all the bolts that are mounted on my 380 ..Went back out dialed it in at 60 yds shooting tacks put the caps on ..keep shooting out at 60 70 80 yds all of a sudden my arrows are in the dirt whats up with that any ideas im confused my 350 has no issues out to a hundred yds stack my arrows in a 3 inch bull any thoughts what could be wrong

[xcaliber]

Let's start with the basics, then go deeper. You have to completely rule things out of the equation to find the root cause.
1. Brace height. Is it set correctly, and staying there?
2. Fasteners again, trigger screws, etc. You can grab the scope mount, and try to move it up & down forcibly, it should not move. Being that you are having issues on the vertical plane, my bet would be this area.
3. Scope failure, highly unlikely but possible.
4. Limb issues which would be noticeable.
5. Your bench rest, again way down the list for a reason. Most folks know a solid rest from a wobbly one.

There is no magic, or Voodoo to affect accuracy, take the simple approach to one element at a time, you'll figure it out.

[venison]

I have recently had new limbs put on my matrix 380 and also installed a trigger techtrigger..its not my first time having a issue but this one has me baffled i guess i will have to lose my mind some more before i say the scope is a defect which it is possible i should not be adjusting the up and down turret all the time at every shooting session you agree

[xcaliber]

Totally. These are multi purpose bows, but designed for hunting with accuracy being the main objective. Don't let it drive you nuts, eliminate one issue at a time.

[L. E. Carroll]

I also shoot bows with shoot XB 30's.......

Like every other scope, Dial it in right on the money at 20 yards then replace the elevation adjustment cap and Leave It there. I would then adjust your speed ring somewhere between 350 and 360 fps. At this point you will no longer touch the elevation knob. Now set your target at exactly 40 yards. Use a bench and a good solid rest to assure your solid on target.

Shoot an arrow... if it hits low, turn your speed ring "Down'" to say 340 fps and shoot again... if hitting high. "Raise" the speed on the speed ring to 365-370 fps and shoot again... continue adjusting THE SPEED RING only, to adjust elevation.

If you have a very calm day with no wind and notice that at this longer range you perhaps hit left or right a bit, Remove the side cap on your scope and make fine adjustments left or right until you hit your aiming point.

Since your point seems to move after sighting in, I would immediately after hitting the "Sweet Spot", wrap electricl black tape around the speed ring where it meets the tube. This should elliminate any shift due to the speed ring moving..

If after previously tightening all screws prior to attempting to sight your scope in and applying blue locktite and letting it set over night to cure. ...and assuring the tape is still in place on the speed ring and that it has not moved, you should now be "on" and adjusted for any range you would reasonably wish within the limits of your bow with that particular bow and the arrows you are shooting...

You can confirm your settings by shooting with the "Correct" crosshair , being the 2 one down, at 30 yards, and then the 4 th one down at 50 yards..... If it does not work out, or the point has shifted considerably, I would suspect a faulty scope and return it for repair or replacement.

I hope this method helps you out.
Gene

[Xbowkiller]

I went out and lined up my scope on my big hunting bow (345fps). I shot the arrows in 3D for a couple years on a Vixen crossbow and last year they sat. Broke two of the four arrows just shooting a rag bag filled with cloths. I was shocked they broke. I take new arrows and shoot them once and make sure they hit the mark.

[wildcatter]

I shoot Tapps, and first thing is acetone the labels off, never used a wrap, then I shoot all 12 at 30 yards, one each at the same bull twice. I pick 4 that hit the same hole in the same place on the 1/2" bulls, these get Firenock battery containment installed and re-shot to assure they are still perfect. These are my hunting arrows, and that don't hit the 1/2" squares are scrap.

The rest are practice and get used batteries and containment to duplicate what I hunt with, with the same style broad heads a month before season, the rest of the year I use field points. But I find my Slick Trick Standards shoot right where my field points do, on a couple bows the speed ring needs a slight tweaking at 50 yrds to be on,, and I sight all bows main aiming point in at 30 yards, from 335 fps Bows to 375 fps bows. This year I am hoping to have the same results but going to try and switch to Viper Tricks?

I only shoot full capture firenocks in every bow I own,, the most secure nocks on the planet, and the finest lighted nocks available.

[vixenmaster]

I shoot capture nocks out of my Matrix 360, Firenok Q's. They do fine shootin practice, i only shoot it about 10 shots a month. Its strickly a Huntin model fer me n at this time i can only rope cock it. Can't use a C2 as the wood stock isn't made fer one