colouredchameleon wrote:Also note that there is a right way to align / install ( contact wires) with your arrow shaft / vanes on a crossbow. Or else they could affect accuracy and or damage the inside edges of rail / track .
See previous thread on the subject below for details. Nov 5th 2015
So, you have to turn the contact wires in the right position. After that you can only use one (cock)vane.
I really don't like this. One of the advances of Excalibur is that you don't have to watch to your cockvane (flat nock). Now i have a cockvane again and have to mark it.
Is it an idea to 'shave' the contact wires, so that they can't make damages anymore?
DO NOT MODIFY THE WIRES OF THE LUMINOK! They're there for a reason...to make a connection and light up the nock. You'll find you can change the point of impact of your arrows by using a different cock vane each shot. I suggest getting your zero with one arrow. Use a pen to put one dot on the vane you used for the cock vane. Now, put a dot on your next arrow and use that as your cock vane. If it hits the same hole as your first arrow, great. If it doesn't, put two dots on the next vane and use that as your cock vane. If it now hits the same hole, great. If not use the next vane as your cock vane. Even though it's not imperative to do this I think you'll find that this helps you achieve the greatest accuracy....unless you're happy with 'close enough'.
Paul
PAUL, good info.so once you find the vane that shoots closest to first arrow hole then mark
that vane with dot..We used to do this with our cedar arrows turn the points until they swirled with no wobble sort of same idea you have with vanes getting best balance..
I'm new to bow hunting, I bought a micro 335 and I put some Knockturnal lighted nocks on my quill arrows. The weight of the lighted knocks was 28 grains. I removed the aluminum nocks that came with the quill arrows and weighed it on a very precise scale at work. It 's weight was 1.17 grams which equals 18 grains. Hope this helps you.
By the way I am a Hoisting Engineer. Something that may surprise some, a cubic foot of steel 490lbs, a cubic foot of cement 150lbs, a cubic foot of aluminum 165lbs.
colouredchameleon wrote:Also note that there is a right way to align / install ( contact wires) with your arrow shaft / vanes on a crossbow. Or else they could affect accuracy and or damage the inside edges of rail / track .
See previous thread on the subject below for details. Nov 5th 2015
So, you have to turn the contact wires in the right position. After that you can only use one (cock)vane.
I really don't like this. One of the advances of Excalibur is that you don't have to watch to your cockvane (flat nock). Now i have a cockvane again and have to mark it.
Is it an idea to 'shave' the contact wires, so that they can't make damages anymore?
DO NOT MODIFY THE WIRES OF THE LUMINOK! They're there for a reason...to make a connection and light up the nock. You'll find you can change the point of impact of your arrows by using a different cock vane each shot. I suggest getting your zero with one arrow. Use a pen to put one dot on the vane you used for the cock vane. Now, put a dot on your next arrow and use that as your cock vane. If it hits the same hole as your first arrow, great. If it doesn't, put two dots on the next vane and use that as your cock vane. If it now hits the same hole, great. If not use the next vane as your cock vane. Even though it's not imperative to do this I think you'll find that this helps you achieve the greatest accuracy....unless you're happy with 'close enough'.
Paul
Great tip - thank you! I like targetshooting at distances above 100 yards, so this will help me shooting better!
What i don't understand: these arrows beïng made with machines - should be making arrows the same at all sides. Why are there differences or are they made by hand...