polishing trigger latches ?

[L. E. Carroll]

The triger on my Matrix 355 is awesome with little if any creep and about 2 3/4 # intrigger pull.... I see very little serving wear on this string { a custom Flemish from Excalibur ) with somewhere around 200 -250 shots on it...

My newer Micro however, ( possibly due to the increased draw weight and increased string angle due to the shorter limbs ? ) is definately showing some serving wear, especially where the left trigger latch makes contact at the outside edge of the latch where the string makes it's bend around the latch while under presssure. I will say the rest of the trigger, as to trigger weight, creep, and a crip release is very nice.

I have some very fine 1500 grit finishing sand paper.... this is the finest I can find locally... if I cut this into about 1/2" strips and then fold in half and polish the latches by lightly drawing the paper strip back and forth as well as around the outside edges I'm thinking this may cure any roughness nicely where the string makes contact with the latches.... My question is does this sound reasonable and am I using fine enough grip finishing paper?

I plan on doing this with the trigger in the closed (loaded ) position with the trigger still in the rail and stock.... will this allow a decent job or would you reccommend doing it a different way?
Thank's for any advice from those familiar with polishing the trigger latches.

Gene

[longbow joe]

Thats the grit i used gene. It should be fine them micros eat strings. I had a tt on mine n had to polish it with 1500. Much better but still eats servings. A custom string with an angel majesty serving will hold up better too from one of our string gurus here .i did mine with it in the bow.put some tape on the rail to protect it

[hankenhunter]

I found it easier to roll the sandpaper into a small tight tube. Good idea about taping underneath to catch the fines.
Hank

[Doe Master]

Problem with doing it is gravity .
Your fine dust is going to go into the trigger unit .
The acute angle of the string is the biggest contributor to serving separation .

[flightattendant100]

Boo has instructions on his website, I think. Just a thought.

[monge]

I tool my trigger apart and polished them not very hard be careful of small ball bearing and spring under safety! Work on a bench and use a rag to stop parts from bounceing. My grizzly had alot of creep so I lowered the sear abit.

[sproulman]

I did notice after just 3 shots on my Micro 335 that right side of string serving opened up.Only right side ..As for polish of trigger thing it seems smooth in there and not rough..I am going to try 2000/2500 paper cut in 1/4 like boo info said..You can get it at auto stores it is wet paper you use on car finish and some stores can ORDER you higher number paper we use 2000 to sand car clear coats wet its really a very light grit....No expert but I did auto repair and i would use 2000 paper wet.KEEP IT WET...Also a real auto body repair shop should have 2000 grit wet paper and most likely give you sheet......If you just want to POLISH the trigger thing then wet that paper if you want to remove use it dry...

Gene,give me your address and i will send you a piece...

[paulaboutform]

Hey Gene, as per Boo, I start with 1200, 2200, then 3000. I first use green painters tape to tape off the trigger behind the jaws then do all the polishing with the stirrup on the ground and the bow between my legs. I use quarter inch strips....best to check out Boo's site.

Paul

[sproulman]

Hey Gene, as per Boo, I start with 1200, 2200, then 3000. I first use green painters tape to tape off the trigger behind the jaws then do all the polishing with the stirrup on the ground and the bow between my legs. I use quarter inch strips....best to check out Boo's site.

Paul

Paul, do you wet that paper or use it dry?

[paulaboutform]

Hey Gene, as per Boo, I start with 1200, 2200, then 3000. I first use green painters tape to tape off the trigger behind the jaws then do all the polishing with the stirrup on the ground and the bow between my legs. I use quarter inch strips....best to check out Boo's site.

Paul

Paul, do you wet that paper or use it dry?

I've used it dry but if a bodyman is saying to use it wet, I won't argue.

Paul

[nchunterkw]

First tape off the rail, then add some tape sticky side up to really catch all the fines...

[sproulman]

Hey Gene, as per Boo, I start with 1200, 2200, then 3000. I first use green painters tape to tape off the trigger behind the jaws then do all the polishing with the stirrup on the ground and the bow between my legs. I use quarter inch strips....best to check out Boo's site.

Paul

Paul, do you wet that paper or use it dry?

I've used it dry but if a bodyman is saying to use it wet, I won't argue.

Paul

Great.Wet paper with soap on clearcoats does not take off the coat as much as Dry using say 2000 grit wet/dry and a lot less scratchs from using it..Dry as you said just will take more off whatever you use it for and leave surface rougher..So your idea of using like 1200 dry is way I would go and wet paper on the 2200 to get real smooth surface...

[sproulman]

In my opinion only on using the auto wet/dry paper ,I used 1500 dry and it did take and smooth trigger and really shiny THEN I took 2000 with soap/water on it and its baby butt smooth..real shiny too..That was it.....Not taking away from BOO on his paper only using what paper we have available that I had in garage from doing auto body repairs years ago and it seemed to work ok.....

[Boo]

Two comments.
One is that the "Wetordry" papers don't last as long. The backing rips easily and the mylar backed abrasives last longer. While the mylar backed abrasives are more costly, you need a fraction of a sheet.
The second thing is that shiny latches is a byproduct of what you should be doing. What I mean by that is, you want to polish until there are absolutely no imperfections. The smallest pit or scratch will cut the serving. So clean the latches before you start to identify what is causing the serving damage and go at it until it is gone. You will need a loupe and a decent light.
Of course, if at anytime you have a legitimate complaint about your bow, contact Excalibur. They will look after you.

[L. E. Carroll]

Thank's everyone for all of your help.....Now I have some idea of what I'm trying to accomplish and how to go about it correctly.

Gene