Loose trigger

rattlerun · Post by **rattlerun** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 4:33 pm

I installed a Trigger Tech trigger into my new M380 about 2 months ago. And have shot it maybe 50 times. Today I was looking things over and discovered that the whole trigger box could be moved. Took stock off and found the 2 Allen screws that hold trigger assembly to rail were loose. When I traded out stock trigger for the Trigger Tech I did not notice if there was locktite on the treads. I used the new ones they supplied along with lock washers. All the directions say is to snug them down. I tightened them both, but I am afraid if I go much farther, I will strip them. Short of just shooting more to find out if all is well. Does anyone have suggestions. Blue locktite ? Fingernail polish? This is not my first install. I have put 3 other Trigger Techs in other bows with no problems.
Thanks in advance.

robertyb · Post by **robertyb** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 4:36 pm

Pretty sure they should have had blue loctite on them. Put a dab on them and tighten back down and let it sit at least 24 hours before shooting.

8ptbuk · Post by **8ptbuk** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 5:44 pm

robertyb wrote:Pretty sure they should have had blue loctite on them. Put a dab on them and tighten back down and let it sit at least 24 hours before shooting.

X2 ! Be careful when you tighten the stock screws down . These are very easily stripped .

Boo · Post by **Boo** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 6:02 pm

A new Trigger Tech unit comes with pre-applied loctite (a faint yellowish colour) on the supplied fasteners. If it is somehow missing, clean the threads with alcohol and apply blue or green Loctite.
You should apply more torque than just snug. I never use Loctite and have never had one come loose. I use the stretch/elasticity of the fastener to hold the trigger unit down. If you do not apply enough torque, Loctite will prevent the fasteners from coming loose.
If you are not using a T-handle allen, you will need to use a pair of vice grips to grab the short end of the little allen tool to apply enough torque.

L. E. Carroll · Post by **L. E. Carroll** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 6:45 pm

I just installed a used TT 2 stage in the 380 Marix I built up.... It did not come with the new screws... I did not apply loctite as I did on all the other screws while building the bow, as I reasoned that the use of lock washers would ensure they stay tight... I torqued them down very securely and have over 50 shots so far with no issues. I will continue to moniter but so far so good.

Gene

foofoo · Post by **foofoo** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 6:59 pm

i stripped out as Trigger Tech. had to tap to bigger size.be careful!~

Boo · Post by **Boo** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 7:09 pm

Not a comment about your abilities Foofoo, but during the development stage, I worked with TT very closely, installing and testing various versions, going as far as modifying a stock to be able to install and remove the trigger units without removal of the stock. So I can attest that stripping threads will be an anomaly. Maybe my advantage is being an auto mechanic for the last 29 years, but then who knows, it's not like I haven't made a whack of mistakes in my life.

foofoo · Post by **foofoo** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:14 pm

problem is whenever your screwin steel screws into aluminum things can happen. im not a big fan of loctite. you have to strip and clean up the threads or you can run into trouble with proper torque.after speaking with the techs at Leupold im a firm believer in using a drop of oil and proper torque over loctite. i always use a torque wrench. when i spoke with Danny M he said hes done it a bunch .to tap up o 10-32. is a much bigger bite.wish Excalibur would go bigger and countersink.wasnt trying to say Trigger techs were prone to stripping. just to be careful that it can happen.

Boo · Post by **Boo** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:31 pm

foofoo wrote:problem is whenever your screwin steel screws into aluminum things can happen. im not a big fan of loctite. you have to strip and clean up the threads or you can run into trouble with proper torque.after speaking with the techs at Leupold im a firm believer in using a drop of oil and proper torque over loctite. i always use a torque wrench. when i spoke with Danny M he said hes done it a bunch .to tap up o 10-32. is a much bigger bite.wish Excalibur would go bigger and countersink.wasnt trying to say Trigger techs were prone to stripping. just to be careful that it can happen.

No question, tapping it one size up is the best thing.
I had no intention of saying anything about you. I really meant it when I used the word anomaly. It can happen, but it's an oddity. All sorts of things can happen during the manufacturing process of drilling and tapping hundreds of thousands of holes, which makes your statement more poignant, "be careful".
When using oil on threads, you have to be really, really careful not to strip threads or stretch fasteners. I've seen tons of wheel bolts stretched because someone put a lubricant on the threads. SAE rules are that all torque spec are dry unless otherwise specified. If you torque a fastener with a no oil spec'd torque with oil, you will be effectively over torquing the fastener. Normally, we see oil associated with angle torguing.
Just a hint. I do not use a tap to clean loctite from threads in aluminum. I take another fastener and cut a groove or two and drive it in . The grooves are not sharp enough to dimensionally change the threads, but do collect the dried loctite.
Again Foofoo, I am not saying you said anything wrong, I'm just adding my 2 Canadian cents

Carnivorous · Post by **Carnivorous** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:43 pm

I am getting really good @ removing fasterners from my crossbows (lot's of practise & good tools). In fact I just removed 2 sets of limb strap bolts from Micro 335 & 355 bows & not one problem. I should apply to work for Excalibur...

sproulman · Post by **sproulman** » Tue Mar 08, 2016 11:35 am

rattlerun wrote:I installed a Trigger Tech trigger into my new M380 about 2 months ago. And have shot it maybe 50 times. Today I was looking things over and discovered that the whole trigger box could be moved. Took stock off and found the 2 Allen screws that hold trigger assembly to rail were loose. When I traded out stock trigger for the Trigger Tech I did not notice if there was locktite on the treads. I used the new ones they supplied along with lock washers. All the directions say is to snug them down. I tightened them both, but I am afraid if I go much farther, I will strip them. Short of just shooting more to find out if all is well. Does anyone have suggestions. Blue locktite ? Fingernail polish? This is not my first install. I have put 3 other Trigger Techs in other bows with no problems.
Thanks in advance.

In my opinion use FINGERNAIL POLISH..

sproulman · Post by **sproulman** » Tue Mar 08, 2016 11:37 am

foofoo wrote:problem is whenever your screwin steel screws into aluminum things can happen. im not a big fan of loctite. you have to strip and clean up the threads or you can run into trouble with proper torque.after speaking with the techs at Leupold im a firm believer in using a drop of oil and proper torque over loctite. i always use a torque wrench. when i spoke with Danny M he said hes done it a bunch .to tap up o 10-32. is a much bigger bite.wish Excalibur would go bigger and countersink.wasnt trying to say Trigger techs were prone to stripping. just to be careful that it can happen.

Gun shops in my area only use FINGERNAIL polish on scope screw never Loctite..

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