Hey guys,
I'm a super paranoid person at times (mostly all the time) and so when I make an investment in things I want to make sure that they stay as secure as possible, and the same concept applies to my crossbow. I live in a fairly safe neighborhood, although there are little spats and break-ins that occur from time to time. I have been a victim of one such break-in before and as such I always try to have safety plans laid out and all my belongings as secure as they can be.
I own a liberty gun safe which is effective at storing the firearms my family has at home. I would try and fit my new crossbow in there but there isn't really enough space and in addition to that it's not smart to store all your goodies in one spot (IMO). I was wondering if any of you have had any issues with keeping your crossbows safe while you were at home or if there were any special measures you employed to keep your crossbows safe?
I have not found any resources that tailor specific details to crossbow storage and crossbow safety so if you guys have any tips or resources, please send them my way. I will greatly appreciate it!
Crossbow Security
Moderator: Excalibur Marketing Dude
Re: Crossbow Security
See the post below on this page:
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"Removing matrix limbs for storage"
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Matrix 355
Huskemaw and Leupold crossbow optics.
Boo Strings
SWAT BH's and TOTA heads.
Teach Your Family How To Hunt So You Don't Have To Hunt For Your Family
Re: Crossbow Security
Agreed. Take the xbow apart at the riser and put it in the safe if you have room. If not, put it in a lockable gun case (usually a two rifle plastic job) and hide that someplace i guess.
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Predator55
- Posts: 139
- Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2016 4:16 pm
Re: Crossbow Security
Why not run a cable through the thumb hole of the stock and lock it to something they can't carry off or cut. Thieves want to get in and out quick, make it as difficult as possible. A nice Rottweiler or Shepard would also help.
Re: Crossbow Security
in Australia we need to have crossbows locked up as they are unfortunately registered like firearms. As I was told on another thread just earlier, taking the riser off is the best way to fit them into regular safes.
As a security professional and if you are worried about theft some info that might help you.
Firstly mostly 'Gunsafes', including the fancy ones that cost a couple of grand, aren't, safes that is. Being 1/4" steel or less maybe with a heavier door they are actually classed as 'security cabinets' or 'low security lockable boxes' in most countries, not real safes. They will usually stop opportunistic attacks and kids, but against powertools or determined pry attacks will only survive matter of minutes. Check youtube for demonstrations of this.
Real safes are a different creature.
First level is Medium security- generally 1/2" of steel or more in the walls and door. Weight 750-1500lbs at 4-5ft height. Often you can pick these up on the used market lower price than many high price gunsafes, and several times tougher. These are what I recommend to gunowners who want more security since while it seems heavy that weight can be forklifted to a door or garage fairly easily and then rolled into place by prying a corner up and rolling the unit on broomstick or steel pipe sections to where you want it. Check with the experts first of course.
Next level is Heavy Commercial- 2-3" thick walls of steel/alloy/ concrete and many times tougher than cabinet class.Difficult for anyone but experts to beat. Takes planning to move and place weighing 1500-2500lbs for a 4ft-5ft tall unit. But still an option for some.
There are levels above this as well that jewellers and banks use, but not really practical for homeowners.
I am not knocking lighter units btw, its all some of us need or can place. Just outlining comercial safes as an option if you can accomodate them.
Some other techniques to protect any gunsafe are:
1.Alarms.
2. Keep tools and powertools locked up or out of sight, opportunistic burglars often use what is at hand.
3. Bolt safes down, a lot of thefts they remove the entire unit, even over 1000lbs. Also with pry attacks on the door, they work better if the crim can topple the safe onto its back and work on it. Bolted standing safes are much harder to pry.
4. Utilise the corner of the room as it protects two sides of the safe.
5.Utilise other heavy furniture in the room if applicable to limit access to the safe or protect its sides. Maybe have the washing machine, an old bookshelf, heavy sofa, the drinks refrigerator etc next to it , also bolted down with simple angle brackets and screws.
6.Utilise second line of defence- internal chains or rack on the firarems or bows inside. If an attacker makes a hand hole through the safe wall, he may find he cannot extract the item because its chained, give up, or restart a bigger hole to get room to attack the chains or rack bar itself, which buys time
7. Don't tell anyone you have a safe, even your buddies, or show it off. People talk about the big nice XYZ safe Bob has, then the wrong ears overhear it at work or the local bar, and you may get targeted. Even a 6ft tall 6000lb TRTL60x6 or what we in Australia call an AA/TDR Banker is easy to open if you are forced to do it at gunpoint.
8. Also hide it, disguise it or limit view to it. Some people make a wooden frame around theirs so it looks like an old cabinet. Throw a refrigerator shipping carton over the top of it so it just looks like a spare cardbox box, or a simple blanket over it. These glossy safes with gun emblems and deer paintings can attract attention...
Hope this helps!
As a security professional and if you are worried about theft some info that might help you.
Firstly mostly 'Gunsafes', including the fancy ones that cost a couple of grand, aren't, safes that is. Being 1/4" steel or less maybe with a heavier door they are actually classed as 'security cabinets' or 'low security lockable boxes' in most countries, not real safes. They will usually stop opportunistic attacks and kids, but against powertools or determined pry attacks will only survive matter of minutes. Check youtube for demonstrations of this.
Real safes are a different creature.
First level is Medium security- generally 1/2" of steel or more in the walls and door. Weight 750-1500lbs at 4-5ft height. Often you can pick these up on the used market lower price than many high price gunsafes, and several times tougher. These are what I recommend to gunowners who want more security since while it seems heavy that weight can be forklifted to a door or garage fairly easily and then rolled into place by prying a corner up and rolling the unit on broomstick or steel pipe sections to where you want it. Check with the experts first of course.
Next level is Heavy Commercial- 2-3" thick walls of steel/alloy/ concrete and many times tougher than cabinet class.Difficult for anyone but experts to beat. Takes planning to move and place weighing 1500-2500lbs for a 4ft-5ft tall unit. But still an option for some.
There are levels above this as well that jewellers and banks use, but not really practical for homeowners.
I am not knocking lighter units btw, its all some of us need or can place. Just outlining comercial safes as an option if you can accomodate them.
Some other techniques to protect any gunsafe are:
1.Alarms.
2. Keep tools and powertools locked up or out of sight, opportunistic burglars often use what is at hand.
3. Bolt safes down, a lot of thefts they remove the entire unit, even over 1000lbs. Also with pry attacks on the door, they work better if the crim can topple the safe onto its back and work on it. Bolted standing safes are much harder to pry.
4. Utilise the corner of the room as it protects two sides of the safe.
5.Utilise other heavy furniture in the room if applicable to limit access to the safe or protect its sides. Maybe have the washing machine, an old bookshelf, heavy sofa, the drinks refrigerator etc next to it , also bolted down with simple angle brackets and screws.
6.Utilise second line of defence- internal chains or rack on the firarems or bows inside. If an attacker makes a hand hole through the safe wall, he may find he cannot extract the item because its chained, give up, or restart a bigger hole to get room to attack the chains or rack bar itself, which buys time
7. Don't tell anyone you have a safe, even your buddies, or show it off. People talk about the big nice XYZ safe Bob has, then the wrong ears overhear it at work or the local bar, and you may get targeted. Even a 6ft tall 6000lb TRTL60x6 or what we in Australia call an AA/TDR Banker is easy to open if you are forced to do it at gunpoint.
8. Also hide it, disguise it or limit view to it. Some people make a wooden frame around theirs so it looks like an old cabinet. Throw a refrigerator shipping carton over the top of it so it just looks like a spare cardbox box, or a simple blanket over it. These glossy safes with gun emblems and deer paintings can attract attention...
Hope this helps!
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Michiganhunter
- Posts: 275
- Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 12:17 pm
Re: Crossbow Security
Yes to all of the above or...just call your insurance provider and insure it for $1,500 and don't worry about. If someone breaks into my house while I am home and I feel threatened I have Glock to cover the situation. If no one is home and someone breaks in,steals my firearms or God forbid my Excalibur. I have insurance to cover that situation. Anything can be replaced except for a human life. Stop the worry....
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Hawke XB 30 Compact
Easton 2216 19 " 388gr... 378fps
100gr Spitfire/Wasp Jak-Hammer
Trigger Tech trigger
Re: Crossbow Security
I use to be a worry wart, HOWEVER 99% of everything you worry about NEVER happens. Stop stressing life is too short.jeff~
Re: Crossbow Security
I built a fake wall in my closet for my guns and crossbow WHEN I am on vacation or not home for few days...I can put 16 guns in wall....I also have dog at home andtimer lights that come on at night.I tell no one when I go on vacation [public]
Re: Crossbow Security
That use to be norm here But not now..DRUGGIES will steal they have too..We even pack our guns AFTER DARK in truck or in garage now.You do not show off your guns/bows now at homeor around town Or at gun clubs etc..Most do not even talk about their things out for beer at clubs anymore...Sad isdnt it but Druggies are watching and listening ...typical10 wrote:I use to be a worry wart, HOWEVER 99% of everything you worry about NEVER happens. Stop stressing life is too short.jeff~
Re: Crossbow Security
MickB wrote:in Australia we need to have crossbows locked up as they are unfortunately registered like firearms. As I was told on another thread just earlier, taking the riser off is the best way to fit them into regular safes.
As a security professional and if you are worried about theft some info that might help you.
Firstly mostly 'Gunsafes', including the fancy ones that cost a couple of grand, aren't, safes that is. Being 1/4" steel or less maybe with a heavier door they are actually classed as 'security cabinets' or 'low security lockable boxes' in most countries, not real safes. They will usually stop opportunistic attacks and kids, but against powertools or determined pry attacks will only survive matter of minutes. Check youtube for demonstrations of this.
Real safes are a different creature.
First level is Medium security- generally 1/2" of steel or more in the walls and door. Weight 750-1500lbs at 4-5ft height. Often you can pick these up on the used market lower price than many high price gunsafes, and several times tougher. These are what I recommend to gunowners who want more security since while it seems heavy that weight can be forklifted to a door or garage fairly easily and then rolled into place by prying a corner up and rolling the unit on broomstick or steel pipe sections to where you want it. Check with the experts first of course.
Next level is Heavy Commercial- 2-3" thick walls of steel/alloy/ concrete and many times tougher than cabinet class.Difficult for anyone but experts to beat. Takes planning to move and place weighing 1500-2500lbs for a 4ft-5ft tall unit. But still an option for some.
There are levels above this as well that jewellers and banks use, but not really practical for homeowners.
I am not knocking lighter units btw, its all some of us need or can place. Just outlining comercial safes as an option if you can accomodate them.
Some other techniques to protect any gunsafe are:
1.Alarms.
2. Keep tools and powertools locked up or out of sight, opportunistic burglars often use what is at hand.
3. Bolt safes down, a lot of thefts they remove the entire unit, even over 1000lbs. Also with pry attacks on the door, they work better if the crim can topple the safe onto its back and work on it. Bolted standing safes are much harder to pry.
4. Utilise the corner of the room as it protects two sides of the safe.
5.Utilise other heavy furniture in the room if applicable to limit access to the safe or protect its sides. Maybe have the washing machine, an old bookshelf, heavy sofa, the drinks refrigerator etc next to it , also bolted down with simple angle brackets and screws.
6.Utilise second line of defence- internal chains or rack on the firarems or bows inside. If an attacker makes a hand hole through the safe wall, he may find he cannot extract the item because its chained, give up, or restart a bigger hole to get room to attack the chains or rack bar itself, which buys time
7. Don't tell anyone you have a safe, even your buddies, or show it off. People talk about the big nice XYZ safe Bob has, then the wrong ears overhear it at work or the local bar, and you may get targeted. Even a 6ft tall 6000lb TRTL60x6 or what we in Australia call an AA/TDR Banker is easy to open if you are forced to do it at gunpoint.
8. Also hide it, disguise it or limit view to it. Some people make a wooden frame around theirs so it looks like an old cabinet. Throw a refrigerator shipping carton over the top of it so it just looks like a spare cardbox box, or a simple blanket over it. These glossy safes with gun emblems and deer paintings can attract attention...
Hope this helps!
well said..DRUGGIES are watching,listening....