Brace height adjustment then check zero?

[FORVOLS]

Well I finally shot my EXCAL 355 w/Hawke XB1 1.5-5 X 32 SR Scope, shooting 20" BEE all purchased from Wyvern creations. That thing is a beast, although it is my first crossbow(shot plenty of vertical bows). Trigger is OK, somewhat gritty on creep, break is pretty crisp but somewhat heavy. Will leave as is for now, as I am learning. Cocking not bad at all, I probably shot 30 times overall(had to plink alittle at 20/30yds after getting on target. I may shorten the cocking aid a few inches though(Im 6'2/240lbs) of course I will test more as is to get my best method for cocking. But I didnt make any additional scope adjustments after zero in shots, still learning the scope, eye relief, cheek weld etc with the bow.

I used 4 arrows for site in, target is a yellow jacket field point target:
1. Shot 2arrows at 10yds-- a little High and Left---made adjustments next 2arrows in the black bull. Shot 4 more and nicked 2 nocks...
2. Backed up to 20yds 2arrows 1.5" high made adjustments -- 2arrows in the black bull.
3. Backed up to 30yds set speed dial at 340fps--2 arrows alittle high(cant remember how much)--UPPED the speed dial .25in or so 2 arrows in the black bull. Shot 4 arrows, all in the black bull (the small ones on a yellow jacket target) so close was the group I WILL NOT be shooting the same bull anymore with multiple arrows.

Now my question: My brace height is now about 1/8" off the string bumpers(string is actually setting right at the rail BH line). If I adjust the BH to 1/4 off the bumpers. After adjustment should I check zero at just 20yds or 10/20/30? I want to do the BH adjustment before trying any more shooting or 40yd testing. I may shoot 50yds or 60yds(just to say I did and see what happens). But my hunting shots will be kept 40yds and in.

[GrassyKnoll]

Congrats on your new bow... The Micro series are sweet bows for sure... I like to keep my brace height on my Micro's just behind the scribed line in the rail.. The reason for me is that I feel that that line can be a bit abrasive on the serving if left to over travel on the shot too much..


For me, I like peace of mind in knowing where I'm hitting, so I do verify my marks after a BH adjustment just so I know for myself... Especially the farther I shoot for distance. I don't think you would see much of a change in POI at 20-30 yards with a 1/8" adjustment..

[sproulman]

I saw some at range monday that filled in that brace height groove with that gray welders stuff[ J B WELD ] that you mix with hardener you get at wal-mart..It was very hard and they had it smoothed ...

[GrassyKnoll]

I saw some at range monday that filled in that brace height groove with that gray welders stuff[ J B WELD ] that you mix with hardener you get at wal-mart..It was very hard and they had it smoothed ...

Hmm... not a bad idea...

[L. E. Carroll]

Did you mean that you used your main crosshair for ten yards and then went down from there in 10 yard incurments? If that's the case, I would reccomend you sight in where the main cross hair is your 20 yard referance... You can actually use the bottom of the top post ( the bottom of the heavy verticle line above your main crosshair or the top of the small circle surrounding your cross hair if your XB has that recticle ? as a decent referance point for ten yards ).

The yardage referance points ( small crosses or chevrons ) will then be dead on after using 20 yards as a main referance, that is of course once you have your speed diaded in on your great choice of a Hawke XB1 SR scope.

Do not rely entirely on the speeds marked on the scope as they are usually only good in getting you close. Depending on your arrow weight, which should be right at 400 gn assuming your using the factory arrows and 150 field tips Excal provided in the package?

Get your scope "Dead On" at 20 yards using a bench rest and good rest. I would then adjust your speed in the 335-340 range and move target back to 40 yards. ( I don't use 30 as I feel it's too close for accurate speed adjustment.) Placing the second referance point ( the one used for 40 yards ) below the main crosshair, on the point your aming at, "Shoot". Then re-adjust your elevation by using the speed ring ONLY. If you hit higher than the aiming point slightly turn your scope ring up speed wise, if low then turn it down a bit... Once elevation is "ON" your scope is adjusted speed wise.

I think your XB1 has a small set screw on the speed ring ? If so, tighten it slightly, but only to the point you can not move the speed adjustment ring. If not, I put a piece of black electricans tape around the speed dial and eye piece to keep it from moving. Make no further elevation corrections.

You may however, have to make a slight windage adjustent with that turret as 40 yards will better show a slight need for adjustment than you were given at only 20 yards. Before making this adjustment make sure your shooing on a very calm day breeze or wind wise.

One more thing I would like to mention is... If your nocks have been hit by other arrows as you mentioned ? Check them to assure the outer edges are smooth. A nicked on the edge can very easily cut a string upon firing causing all sorts of problems... I have had some success with using one of my wifes emory boards to help smooth it to origional contour. It's even better to slightly bevel the back of your nocks all the way around edge where the flat surface and edge meet, be they aluminum or plastic, to ensure smoothness where the string is concerned.

If you can not get it smooth or have any doubts at all ... then REMOVE and REPLACE those dammaged nocks ! They are way cheaper than a new bow or an injury to you or those nearby should a string break causing even more problems.

I hope this helps.
Gene

[GrassyKnoll]

L. E. Carroll,

Great post and good info ....

[FORVOLS]

Gene,

Thanks alot

Yes main crosshair was used for 20yd zero. The 2nd reference point (+) below the main was used for 30yd speed adjustment. I am shooting 150grn factory field pt on 20in BEE supplied with the xbow package I got from Wyvern Creations. At 30yds I started with speed dial at 340 (using the 2nd reference point (+) below main crosshair) 2 arrows were dead on windage wise but alittle high. I turned speed dial up maybe .25in or less. Next 2 arrows were in the black bull. I shot 4 more times and was really happy with the group at 30yds all 4arrows packed in the black bull fletchings touching (like I said I wont be shooting multiple arrows at the same bull anymore, that could/will get expensive as I get more comfortable with the xbow).

No circle around my XB1 main crosshair. Speed dial does have a set screw and I was going to snug it down after 40yd shoot in. Roger your advice on 40yd shooting and possible windage adjustment.

I smoothed out the dinged nock(s). But I will probably retire those 2 arrows until I can get some replacement aluminum nocks.

Thank you
Tony

[paulaboutform]

Just another little tidbit if you're using aluminum nocks. When replacing them or building shafts, DO NOT epoxy your nocks in the shafts. Rather, use a small spot of a low temperature glue stick (any archery dealer should have them) to secure the nocks. They won't move and should you need to replace them, a field tip screwed in and heated lightly with a lighter will allow for easy removal.
Also, when sighting in and adjusting your speed dial your center crosshairs do not move. All the other chevrons do move getting closer together or further apart. If you can set your bow on a solid rest you can speed the process by simply aiming at the spot at whichever range, hold your mark for that Rangoon the bullseye and adjust your speed dial to land on the arrow you just shot.

Paul