20" Wyvern custom arrows for Matrix 380

[Boo]

You will also need acetone.

[wildcatter]

And not just any glue! I have found over the years after going to the glue from Jerry that he uses,,, or the glue from Dorge @ Firenock and the fletching glue he sells, I no longer have to refletch. I don't care how many targets I blow thru!

The only time I ever have to replace a vane is if I cut one off with another arrow, bone in an animal, whatever, but you will have a glue flange come loose properly fletched with those two glues from either one. Everything else else I tried over the years was useable to good,,, but nothing compares to how great these to products are.

I will say I have heard other say what they use is just as good,,,,,,, but never heard that from anyone who used the glue I referred to, after trying it!

[paulaboutform]

Well this is very important advice I am thinking. Thanks Paul and Boo!
I got Jerry from Southshore to suggest a custom arrow configuration a while back using the 18" zombie slayers as follows..


Flat Aluminum Nock, 1 1/8th to 1 1/4 setback
Sk 300 vanes set offset
110 insert
Shaft weight 162 grains
Insert 110
Point 125
Vanes 20.4
Total 417 grains

So I just order the shafts, vanes, inserts, nocks above and the Jig you mentioned Paul + some glue and I am ready to rock and roll?

Yes, and the acetone as Boo mentioned. To keep things simple I would stick with 2" vanes. That's the maximum length you can use in the Arizona Rim E-Z Fletch Bolt fletching jig. You can use the SK200's but for the additional cost to Australia I would stick with the Blazer Vanes. I would also stick with the plastic nocks. If you decide to go to the aluminum nocks I recommend buying the low temperature (archery) glue stick and use a tiny amount to bond the nock to the shaft. This will make replacement of damaged nocks easy by just screwing a field point into the nock and heating the point enough to remove the damaged nock. Also, use a fine grit painter's sanding foam block to sand the edges of the aluminum nock in the shaft. Finish by polishing with a dremel tool polishing wheel and jewellers rouge......OR, as I mentioned, just stick with plastic nocks and buy plenty of extras.

Paul

[Karl]

Thanks fellas. Paul the plastic nocks sound substantially less complicated. Would I lose much weight with the shorter vanes and plastic nocks? part of my aim was to have a bolt around 410-425grains. Jerry mentioned he could add some further weight to the insert as well so it wouldn't be a problem either way I guess.

[paulaboutform]

Karl, losing weight on the nock end is a good thing as it increases your FOC. With the recipe you mentioned, which is 110 grain brass inserts, plastic nocks (weighing 8 grains instead of 28 grains) 100gr points and blazers you'll be just over 400gr I believe. If you were to go to 125gr points you'd be around 430 grains. Either will be tack drivers and work great!

Paul

[Karl]

Thanks Paul. I have emailed Jerry to change my order to the configurations you guys suggest, and also ask about his glue.

So, apart from the stock 380 blackout package I have the following on the go.

Danny's puller pliers and stringing aid from Boo
Custom strings from Vixen Master
The arrows above from Jerry, also enquired about glue
I will get the Jig as well

Still chasing a 125 grain broadhead/blunts and decent target. That will just come down to finding good deals. Targets bit costly to ship individually, so our dealers hit us even harder being the ''good businessmen'' they are. We pay double to triple US prices in local stores despite the US dollar only being 25% higher .. That's my problem though not anyone elses, just have to keep an eye out for deals and bite the bullet.

[paulaboutform]

Hi Karl, in regards to targets, I recommend buying a Third Hand Archery 'Rag Bag Target'.Jerry could put it in your package and the cost would be minimal as it's just a heavy duty target shell that you stuff with old clothes and sheets,towels, etc...no buttons or zippers though. You have to remove them. It's better than any burlap sack or home job I could make myself. If you're willing to sacrifice a broadhead for practice you can actually shoot into a couple of sandbags. This wouldn't be for target practice but checking or confirming zero. My first choice for broadheads would be the Rhinehart 18 in 1 target.

Paul

[Karl]

Thanks Paul I will ask Jerry about the bag. So I take it this type of bag is not much good at stopping or surviving broadheads then?

[paulaboutform]

Thanks Paul I will ask Jerry about the bag. So I take it this type of bag is not much good at stopping or surviving broadheads then?

It's for field points only. Broadheads would quickly destroy it, field points will take literally thousands of shots. I think it's about $30 -35 USD..

Paul

[Karl]

Thanks Paul. I wondered if anyone can suggest the breakup for spares/ components. I'd like to get some arrows from jerry fully made up, as a guide. Also some spare shafts and components. Just wondered what the ratio of spares would be. I assume I only need 1 insert per arrow for example. How many nocks and vanes is a good plan to have on hand?

[paulaboutform]

Thanks Paul. I wondered if anyone can suggest the breakup for spares/ components. I'd like to get some arrows from jerry fully made up, as a guide. Also some spare shafts and components. Just wondered what the ratio of spares would be. I assume I only need 1 insert per arrow for example. How many nocks and vanes is a good plan to have on hand?

Hi Karl, personally, I'd order an extra dozen brass inserts and a couple dozen extra nocks. For vanes I'd order an extra three dozen above what you need to build your arrows. Something I do is use all the same color vanes. Pink is great because it's bright and isn't a color duplicated in nature. I orient the cock vane, which is still the same color as the hen vanes, with the lettering '20"/.001'. Then when I shoot the arrows I can turn them using each vane as the cock vane until they're all hitting the same spot. I then mark the vane to use as the cock vane with a spot in felt pen or whatever you choose. If you have Jerry make up some arrows for you make sure you ask him to make them this way and use the Arizona Rim E-Z Fletch Bolt so you can repair any vanes you damage....and have him cut and square all arrows or shafts to 18".

Paul

[hankenhunter]

Thanks Paul. I wondered if anyone can suggest the breakup for spares/ components. I'd like to get some arrows from jerry fully made up, as a guide. Also some spare shafts and components. Just wondered what the ratio of spares would be. I assume I only need 1 insert per arrow for example. How many nocks and vanes is a good plan to have on hand?

Hi Karl, personally, I'd order an extra dozen brass inserts and a couple dozen extra nocks. For vanes I'd order an extra three dozen above what you need to build your arrows. Something I do is use all the same color vanes. Pink is great because it's bright and isn't a color duplicated in nature. I orient the cock vane, which is still the same color as the hen vanes, with the lettering '20"/.001'. Then when I shoot the arrows I can turn them using each vane as the cock vane until they're all hitting the same spot. I then mark the vane to use as the cock vane with a spot in felt pen or whatever you choose. If you have Jerry make up some arrows for you make sure you ask him to make them this way and use the Arizona Rim E-Z Fletch Bolt so you can repair any vanes you damage....and have him cut and square all arrows or shafts to 18".

Paul

Cept for wild roses.
Hank

[Karl]

Thanks again!