Beginner questions - String and Bolts

[redmasterchief]

Hey guys,

First off, complete crossbow beginner here so please keep that in mind with some of my questions.

I purchased the Matrix 380 and received it this past Wednesday (7/20). Bought a 400 FPS target to go along with it.

So one of my first observations after assembling the bow was that the string was digging heavily into my R.E.D.S. pads. I went out and bought a stringing aid and with the help of that, loosened my string up to the recommended brace height. Over the course of about 24 hours (still having not been shot), the string was again on the verge of being depressed into the pads. I readjusted the string again before finally having a chance to shoot it on Saturday. After about 10 shots or so, the string once again needed readjusted, so went ahead and did that and continued to shoot probably another 25 shots throughout the day. By the time I got home, my string once again was sitting dangerously close to my pads. Again, readjusted before I went to bed. Come Sunday morning, the string had relaxed a little bit, but not nearly as bad as it had been so I did one more minor adjustment before going out to shoot it again.

In my research over the weekend, I learned that it is normal for a new string to "creep" for a while and that shooting it will eventually correct the issue and future adjustments should be rare if ever needed at all. I was just curious as to if there is a "standard" break in period that needs to happen for each new string? Each time I had to readjust, I felt that all the sighting I just did for my scope was for naught, especially at longer distances. Surely I can't be expected to sight my bow in each time I want to use it? Maybe my naiveness is in full force here. Either way any input is appreciated.

One more thing while I'm here. Throughout the two days and ~50ish shots that I put through the Matrix, my diablo bolt fletchings are already looking like they've been through some things. Some have tears and rips in them from going too far into the target. I know for wavy vanes and whatnot you can hold them over some steam to straighten them out, but I'm just guessing that having rips and tears in them is a no-no for accurate, consistent shooting?

Which got me into researching fletching tools and techniques. When it comes to the Diablo 18'' carbon's with 2 inch vanes, is there a recommended way to fletch these? Should I stick with a straight or offset fletching over a helical? Again, I'll admit I'm only just beginning to learn about the intricacies and nuances of all that is involved with crossbow shooting/hunting. I was looking at the Arizona EZ Fletch tool, but I'm not sure if I'd be better off with the helical or straight fletch.

[GrassyKnoll]

Welcome aboard......

The Bulldog is on my want list for sure..

The short answer... Helical fletching is best for broadheads.... The Arizona EZ Fletch Bolt Fletching Jig is great for refletching your arrows...

[vixenmaster]

Brace height n string stretchin, those Factory strings do it alot then settle down. Once yer scope is sighted in at the brace ht you want, the scope should stay sighted in. The target you purchased isn't goin to hold up to close range shootin, therefore will allow yer costly arrows to go too deep n ruin yer fletchin

[redmasterchief]

Thanks for the replies.

So I do think I am going to go with the Arizona EZ Fletch Bolt Fletching Jig. You mention Helical is best for broadheads, how much are field points affected with the same fletchings? From what I can tell, I need to choose the correct tool, ie they sell one that does helical right or left and another one that does straight.

At least until I save up to buy a target that will truly stop all of my arrows before the fletchings can be ruined, I feel this is the best way for me to be able to practice short of continuously buying new, pricey arrows each time.

If anything, I'm realizing that I picked up an expensive hobby want to make sure I'm following all the best practices to save money and lengthen my enjoyment.

[vixenmaster]

Field pts can use any of the fletchin methods offset or helical. They really don't steer/guide the front of arrow not much air resistance. A fixed Broadhead will have air currents turblance as it puchs ahead n the fletcherin will be a like a ships rudder tryin to guide it as it flies thru the air. The more powerful n faster the crossbow the better yer target needs to be to handle it

[BrotherRon]

Welcome aboard, and welcome to your new addiction
1. Yes, those factory strings will stretch for a while, which is one reason some people go with custom flemish strings...
( I like all the pretty colors )
There are lots of string makers on this site and they all make quality strings.
2. Same fletching for everything.
3. Why not fill out your profile so that people know what side of which pond you live on?
4. Get a tube of blue loctite (not the permanent stuff) and remove the screws from you trigger housing and scope mount screws and apply a small dab.
5. After 6 posts messaging will be enabled for you.
6. You will find some good info here a well =
http://boocustomstrings.com/importantstuff.html

[redmasterchief]

I'm definitely interested in seeing what custom strings/bolts people are selling. Is there a custom shop on the site somewhere or are these transactions done through forums/private chats?

As for the blue loctite, I am picking some up today. I noticed after my last shooting session that the guardian anti-dry fire/scope rail is loose.. It will move up/down about 1/8'' from the front of the rail. I'm hoping the loctite will take care of it.

I really appreciate all the tips and am glad to be here. Thanks guys!

[NickBudz]

Another Brand Newbie here. Just ordered my Micro 335 should have it in 2 weeks.

Just posting on here so I can follow the replies.

Thanks,
Nick

[redmasterchief]

So finally after work I was able to get home and take a closer look at my loose rail/guardian adf.. The screws are definitely loose. I was able to unscrew them completely with my fingers.

I've never used loctite before, but based on other times and scenarios I've used some sort of glue throughout my life, there's at least some evidence left behind that the glue does indeed exist. I can't tell that there is anything that has ever been applied to these screws (again, maybe loctite is just that impressive).

I was wondering if someone could take a look at my attached picture (screw angle isn't the best, but this is immediately after I removed one sans allen wrench).

edit: I thought I attached the picture using the Upload Attachment feature, but it seems to be nowhere to be found after posting and trying again tells me I've reached my attachment quota

[Boo]

Loctite must be accompanied with enough fastener torque. A fastener that is not tight enough will come loose with or without loctite.

[NickBudz]

Sproul man sent me a Pm but apparently I need to participate in a few more Posts before I can actively use PMs.

[sproulman]

Sproul man sent me a Pm but apparently I need to participate in a few more Posts before I can actively use PMs.

I got your PM ..

[redmasterchief]

Loctite must be accompanied with enough fastener torque. A fastener that is not tight enough will come loose with or without loctite.

Yeah, makes sense. My bow never had any applied to it though I discovered. All 4 fasteners I removed from the rail last night were bare. When I was initially assembling the bow, my manual said that some loctite had already been applied prior to the rail being installed and being shipped to me which is why I was concerned that the rail was completely loose after only 2 shooting sessions.

I'll get these fasteners tightened up and I think I'll be ready to go

[paulaboutform]

Welcome to the forum. Regarding the loktight, only use a TINY amount. You simply don't need much. Regarding the strings, they will ALL appear to stretch as they settle. Even then it's more of a slowing down considerably rather than stopping. I'm not sure if you know what brace height is? It's the distance from the front of the string to the seem where the rail meets the riser/limb assembly. If you're looking for (for eexample) a 3/4" brace height, try twisting the string to a 1 1/4" brace height. This will add more preload to the limbs and speed up the process to give you a more stable string. I've found setting the brace height exactly where you want it to be very frustrating initially. The method I mentioned works well...credits to the old timers who were kind enough to pass this knowledge along to me.
Also, the Arizona Rim E-Z Fletch Bolt is my favorite fletching jig hands down.

Paul