I recently put together my first dozen zombie slayers using the Arizona EZ fletch. The first couple turned out ok but the fetching tool marred the wrap due to the tight fitting of the arms and my not rotating in the direction of the wrap. The other bit of the learning curve was placing the end cap of the fletcher on too tight which left marks in the wrap. I add this bit as an FYI to any beginners using the AEZ.
The subject of the tittle arises due to after shooting my new arrows and having a brass insert come loose in my big shot ballistic bag . (Any suggestions for getting that sucker out would be appreciated) I used fletch tight platinum on both the vanes and insert and to be fair I probably used it too sparingly. I applied it by placing drops in a straight line in each channel and evening it out w/ a business card. What are you using & suggestions.....
Fletch tite is not ideal for inserts and not really the best for vanes either in my experience. You insert will likely stay where it is at the way I see it, unless you want to try some home made surgery and cut it out.
Cleaning and prep is as important and the glue that you use. Try Gorilla Blue top to increase adherence qualities.
EXCALFFLICTION 1991 ->>----------> 2024
Matrix 355
Huskemaw and Leupold crossbow optics.
Boo Strings
SWAT BH's and TOTA heads.
Teach Your Family How To Hunt So You Don't Have To Hunt For Your Family
I have seen a lot of positive posts regarding Gorilla blue cap glue, and purchased some. Being the is is a vollitale I notice "flashing" or white film on gather at glue points. Suggestions or tips for using super glue type adhesives.
X2 what Normous said. Proper cleaning of vanes, shafts and inserts is imperative....I use G5 blue glue for vanes and inserts and it's the best I've tried in MANY years of arrow building.
Paul
You're only paranoid if everyone isn't out to get you.
Keep your friends close and your enemies closer.
My enemy's friend is also my enemy.
Paul, I saw a you tube of a fella who tested various glues on fetching. His setup was a bracket that held the arrow, a pair of vise grips attached to the vane followed by a digital scale hooked to a hand winch. The G5 was one of top performers. However when I went to the bow shop the gut dissuaded me from the purchase and suggested the ft. Should have stuck to my research.
I use the same Gorilla glue with no issues.
ThW white residue means you used a little too much. The inserts coming out means you either didn't use enough glue or more likely, didn't prep well enough. You only need the thinnest bead of glue along the center groove of the fletching.
To install the inserts, I knurl them between two axe files and then dump them into a container of acetone. I shake the container then pour out the acetone and lay the inserts onto a paper towel to dry completely. Any surfaces prepped with acetone does not get touched with my hands after wards.
I run a 30 Cal bore brush into the shaft and twist. Then it gets dunked and shaken in the acetone. I pull out the shaft and whip the shaft in the air to get rid of the acetone and any remaining dust from inside the shaft. Then the shaft gets dunked and shaken in the acetone again, then whipped in the air again.
All prepped components sit until completely void of the smell of acetone.
The insert gets picked up by a field tip and layer down on a paper towel. I then roll a thin bead of glue into the mouth of the shaft and lay it down. The insert gets a bead of glue on the corner/edge the goes into the shaft. The grooves of the insert get glue and I use the nozzle of the bottle to drag the glue around the surface.
The insert gets pushed and turned into the shaft all the way. At this point watch that you see a bead of glue preceeding the shaft which tells you that you have enough glue for complete coverage. Once all the way in, I slam the assembly into a piece of wood the ensure that the insert is all the way home.
I leave the assembled arrow for 24 hrs before shooting.
I've taught quite a few people who now successfully make arrows and I always stress that if you get all the glue surfaces clean and do not touch them once prepped, you'll have no glue failures.
chadgrow wrote:Paul, I saw a you tube of a fella who tested various glues on fetching. His setup was a bracket that held the arrow, a pair of vise grips attached to the vane followed by a digital scale hooked to a hand winch. The G5 was one of top performers. However when I went to the bow shop the gut dissuaded me from the purchase and suggested the ft. Should have stuck to my research.
Do you happen to recall what the results of using wraps was?
Boo wrote:I use the same Gorilla glue with no issues.
ThW white residue means you used a little too much. The inserts coming out means you either didn't use enough glue or more likely, didn't prep well enough. You only need the thinnest bead of glue along the center groove of the fletching.
To install the inserts, I knurl them between two axe files and then dump them into a container of acetone. I shake the container then pour out the acetone and lay the inserts onto a paper towel to dry completely. Any surfaces prepped with acetone does not get touched with my hands after wards.
I run a 30 Cal bore brush into the shaft and twist. Then it gets dunked and shaken in the acetone. I pull out the shaft and whip the shaft in the air to get rid of the acetone and any remaining dust from inside the shaft. Then the shaft gets dunked and shaken in the acetone again, then whipped in the air again.
All prepped components sit until completely void of the smell of acetone.
The insert gets picked up by a field tip and layer down on a paper towel. I then roll a thin bead of glue into the mouth of the shaft and lay it down. The insert gets a bead of glue on the corner/edge the goes into the shaft. The grooves of the insert get glue and I use the nozzle of the bottle to drag the glue around the surface.
The insert gets pushed and turned into the shaft all the way. At this point watch that you see a bead of glue preceeding the shaft which tells you that you have enough glue for complete coverage. Once all the way in, I slam the assembly into a piece of wood the ensure that the insert is all the way home.
I leave the assembled arrow for 24 hrs before shooting.
I've taught quite a few people who now successfully make arrows and I always stress that if you get all the glue surfaces clean and do not touch them once prepped, you'll have no glue failures.
This x 2.
Having said that i use a 2 part slow set epoxy on my inserts, for the reason you stated. Once in i do not want them coming out.
Kandy-a.k.a Raid
Midge- a.k.a Micro 335
SSAS Spynal Tapps-Original
100 Grn 2" Shwacker
Boo threads
Don't wreck the fun house!
Hey Boo,
Thank you for the thorough and detailed response it was extremely helpful. The wraps on this experiment were not evaluated however all shafts were wrapped and the better performing glues failed at the wrap and not the glue joint.
My apologies Boo,
I looked at that you tube videos again and there was a wrap no wrap evaluation. The wraps were definitely weaker than the attachment directly to the shafts. The video was put out by a fellow with Bad Lands.
chadgrow wrote:My apologies Boo,
I looked at that you tube videos again and there was a wrap no wrap evaluation. The wraps were definitely weaker than the attachment directly to the shafts. The video was put out by a fellow with Bad Lands.
Cheers, Chad
Keep in mind as well, if you damage one vane, you have to replace the wrap and the other two vanes. Appearance wise, wraps are very cool looking! Bling bling for your bow and blind
I feel every time I'm in the woods is a memory I pine over all year and could very well be my biggest bucks. It's what keeps us starring at motionless bushes and rod tips for hours on end for the chance that big one is on the way. So considering the aforementioned I feel the cost & time of vanes wraps or any component of the joy and potential adventure to come to be nominal. As for the wraps, I do subscribe to the blind factor but allso the fact that I can add bright colors for easy retrieval.
blu glue for both and clean all surfaces with acetone.
IN GOD WE TRUST
Jeff
animals are killed, crops are harvesteD
REVX
matrix 355
BE executioners and zombies, w/110 brass
SWAT BROADHEADS
Boo string
Dagriz knife
If buying Gorilla Blue top, make sure you're getting it from a big box retailer that turns over their stock frequently enough. I bought some old stock that was frustrating as hell to work with. Other than that it's a great adhesive. I am now using Fletch Flex's Zing! adhesive because I like how it pays out from the bottle in a super fine bead, so there is no need to spread it with a toothpick.
. (Any suggestions for getting that sucker out would be appreciated) I used fletch tight platinum on both the vanes and insert and to be fair I probably used it too sparingly. I applied it by placing drops in a straight line in each channel and evening it out w/ a business card. What are you using & suggestions.....
