New X-Bow Set Up Help Requested

[BRASF0311]

Hey Guys,
My new Grizzly Cub is in the mail on the way to my house, and when I get it, I'd like to set it up as close to perfect the first time around, so I don't have to dump a lot of money into trial and error.

What I ordered- Just the Cub, and not the package deal. So no quiver, bolts, or scope is included. Starting fresh here.

The goal- Produce the smallest, lightest, and quietest package that the Cub can be.

Intended Use- Hunt deer mainly and possible black bear within 40 yards.

Boundaries- Not really looking to dump a small fortune into the accessories, but would rather buy quality once than keep replacing junk.

Preferences- Prefer all black for colors, short, small, and light weight. My shoulders are shot, so I'm thinking of short bolts (like 15") and an exterior carry option for the bolts (like a belt mounted quiver).

So what's your thoughts?

My initial thoughts are to call Danny Miller and order a couple flemish strings with whisker silencers, custom aluminum 15" bolts with heavy inserts, so I can use 100gr broad heads (I all ready have plenty of broad heads), and a simple multi-plex scope.

I appreciate any recommendations with links and pricing as where to place the order. Thanks.

[nyexhunter]

You will need a stringer to adjust brace height. Also, bumpers if you do not have them already. A rope cocking device as well. A good scope as well and solid mounts are a must. Also, the Excalibur quiver works for me, but some may suggest others. The correct arrows and length will be provided by the 2 dealers I mention below.
D Miller or Wyvern Creations are good dealers for getting these things as well as great advice.
I have the C2 crank device as well, which for me is a necessity, making easier to cock the bow as well as to use on the stringer to set the brace height. This is an item that you may not need.

[Normous]

The lightest quiver on the market is the Kwik 3 by Kwikee Quiver, 5.5 oz.

[MTBighorn]

My Thoughts.. The Excalibur quiver is the best
.....shoot 18" BEE's...carbons ...and don't look back!! Whitney's has Executioners for $32 for 6 shipped!!... Your grizzly will thank me and you will be able to mount and shoot just about any.. head/nock available....

I added a 39grain Ignitor Nocks to my BEE & Zombie arrows.. so I had to "re-fletch" my 18" arrows with the A-Z Bolt to spin them a little faster.... 15's" arrows will add un-needed challenge to your situatio

And I like the TactZone scope! It just works!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and I shoot 100 yards+ with it everyday!

[L. E. Carroll]

Considering your bows speed I would order a Nikon Bolt Scope with med. height rings.

One of Munch's black above the rail Munch mounts ( yes I know you mentioned a hip quiver and I have tried those and found they were not for me )... now all of my bows wear Terry's mounts,,

A Flemish string to get the speed up to that of a Grizzly,

A set of Danny Millers baby bumpers,

"Claw Sling" ( they come in black )

BEE's or Zombie slayers with cut to your desired length with "Green" Ignitor nocks, & 92 grain inserts,

Wrap your stirrup with tennis "handle wrap" material to deaden the tuning fork effect it may have due to harmonics ( also comes in Black )

Polish trigger latches if needed ( a TT trigger if you feel you need for it ) and you should have everything you may ever need in a light weight, convenient, accurate and reliable package.

That would be all quality parts with necessary mods. at the cleapest price... & give you a great outcome.

Gene

[paulaboutform]

Welcome to the forum. Here are my gear suggestions:
- Luepold Crossbones scope. I've also heard positive things about the Hawke Pro
- Black Eagle arrows. Either Executioners or Zombie Slayers cut to the appropriate length to fit within your stirrup with a broadhead attached. 92gr or 110gr brass inserts, 2" blazers and plastic flat nocks.
-2" of heat shrink over the front of your arrow retainer spring.
- send your trigger to forum member Boo and get a Boo trigger job. When your trigger is coming back have him send some Boo Strings. They're worth every penny.
- If you want a hip quiver get what fits you best otherwise I'm fine with the factory quiver. My none factory quiver mounts are the Danny Miller over bow quiver mounts and they're awesome.
***As already mentioned, a phone call to Danny Miller at Horizontal Archery will have you fixed right up with whatever your needs are. I can boldly claim, without challenge by anyone on or off this forum, that no one will know more about Excalibur crossbows than Danny.

Paul
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[jefrohio]

I went the same route, I got the cub only. I added the quickie quiver 3, A half dozen black eagle executioners from Jerry at South Shore cut @ 17 1/2 inches so my Brodheads will not stick out past the foot sturip. I then called Danny Miller got his bumpers and his Black and silver Flemish string. I went bow-only because I already had extra quivers, scopes and red dots for crossbows laying around, I dont need to collect anymore. With Danny Miller's 26 strand Flemish string my cub shoots a 426 gr. bee at 283 fps. The little cub with it's all black finish and short length of pull is also great for hunting out of a blind and late-season hunts when wearing heavy clothes. It's a solid little bow, you're gonna love it Jefro

[Deerstalker]

What L.E. Carroll said, Nikon Bolt Xr scope, light, short, rugged, accurate with 3" to 4" eye relief.

Specifications
Model Bolt XR 3x32
Actual Magnification 3x
Objective Diameter (mm) 32
Objective Diameter (in) 1.26
Exit Pupil (mm) 10.7
Exit Pupil (in) 0.42
Eye Relief (mm) 86.4
Eye Relief (in) 3.4
Tube Diameter (mm) 25.4
Tube Diameter (in) 1
Objective Tube Diameter (mm) 39.3
Objective Tube Diameter (in) 1.55
Outside Diameter of Eyepiece (mm) 41
Outside Diameter of Eyepiece (in) 1.61
Adjustment Graduation 1click : 1/4" @ 20yd
Max Internal Adjustment (Elevation & Windage) *(moa) 150
Parallax Setting (m) 18.29
Parallax Setting (yds) 20
Field of View at 100yds (ft) 35.6
Field of View at 100m (m) 11.87
Length (mm) 205
Length (in) 8.1
Weight (g) 285
Weight (oz) 10.1
* moa=minute of angle (in front of 100 yards one moa is nearly equal to one inch.)o 4" eye relief.

[BRASF0311]

Thank you to all for the great information.

I walked in the house last night, and there was a big box on my bed! Just like a kid at Christmas, I tore it open, assembled the the Cub and shot my dad in the foot with it. No, just kidding.

I did put the Cub together, and I really like the balance and light weight of the Cub. I think I'll do just fine with this X-Bow.

First I made sure every bolt was tight, then took the Stirrup off and wrapped it with something like tennis racket handle tape. Bolted the Stirrup back on through the tape and flicked it with my finger. Vibration noise wasn't eliminated, but the sound was definitely deadened some. I waxed the string, and shortened the rope cocking aid that I had in my archery tool box, so it fit's the cub now.

I found that I could cock the X-Bow by hand (if need be), but needed the cocking rope to uncock the X-Bow.

I measured the length of the bolt to where my broad heads could sit the farthest back in the X-Bow, and it would make the bolt with out the tip be 14 1/2".

Anyone ever cut your bolt's that short?
I'd like to try short bolts so I can make a short belt quiver out of 3" plastic tubing that I have. This is mainly an effort to keep as much weight off of the bow as possible. (After many years of abuse and surgeries, I'm left with the shoulder strength of a little girl, with no arms. )

I will definitely get one of the recommended scopes, Danny Millers Bumpers, and a couple flemish strings.
I have noticed the difference in prices from some of the custom string makers and was wondering if the strings that cost twice as much as others actually last twice as long? Not knocking any one or any price, but just curious.

Thanks again for all the great advice.

[L. E. Carroll]

I would never consider cutting my arrows to the lowest possible length... I feel they should be long enough that should you decide to let the bow down before entering a vehicle or at days end, my foot will dislodge an arrow I may have forgotten being on the rail. Can you emagine letting a forgotten "short" broadhead tipped arrow down only to have it pierce your foot...

I set mine up so that the end of the broadhead is protected within the stirrup by about 1", but easily recognizing it's there should my foot be placed in the stirrup.

Gene

[jefrohio]

You can shorten your arrows, just make sure your insert is square, or your Broadheads may wobble and not fly true. My 17 1/2 inch bee with the slick trick on the end sits just behind the foot sturip (18 1/2 overall)
The kwiki kwiver air with Dan millers post over bow mount is about as light as you can go as far as quivers, but if you want to make a homemade hip quiver go for it.
All the string makers on this forum make great strings you can't go wrong with any of them. Some have strings ready made all you need to do is contact and pay and they'll have them in the mail the next day. Jefro

[Patcon]

Before you start shooting check to make sure the vanes on your bolts will clearing your wrapping job on your stirrup. I wrapped my stirrup with some camo gun wrap I had, but discovered that the vanes clip the wrapping. I saw this in another posts somewhere. I had to unwrap the center section in front of the rail to allow the bolt to launch cleanly

[L. E. Carroll]

Before cutting your shafts down, maybe check your states regulations as some have restrictions concerning minimum length allowed.

Some guys actually are forced to sell or use their factory supplied 16 1/2" "Quills" for practice as they don't meet their states min. arrow legth limits.

Gene

[BRASF0311]

Thanks for the info guys.

I'm good to go with short bolts here in Virginia. I'll check the wrap once I get the bolts. I like aluminum over carbon, but I'm finding some good pricing on Excalibur Quills, and they are only 16 1/2" in length. Those might be the easiest way to go.

Does any one have any experience with the Cub and Quills?

[jefrohio]

If you Go with the quills you're going to need some 150 grain broadheads in order to get your best accuracy. I would spend a little extra money and get spine indexed Bees or zombie slayer's with the 110 gr. brass insert. That way you don't have to buy extra broadheads, you can use the ones you already have. Jefrohio