Slick Tricks shooting wild

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deerman41
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Slick Tricks shooting wild

Post by deerman41 »

Decided to try slicks yesterday,always shot spitfire expandable. Shot field points to check POI, was dead accurate at 40yrds. First shot with slicks was 3" high 3" wide left, next glanced off top of block target, next completely missed right. I don't have a spin tester, can wobble affect flight that much? When I shot field points I started at 20 yards and then to 40yards, made several shots all dead on. So I don't think it's arrows.
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Riflemanz
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Re: Slick Tricks shooting wild

Post by Riflemanz »

I've shot slick tricks out of my 355 with BEE arrows and they flew like darts! What kind of arrows are you shooting?
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Quintehunter
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Re: Slick Tricks shooting wild

Post by Quintehunter »

Basically the answer is YES. Since the blades of a broadhead act as airfoils, if there is any wobble at all it will affect accuracy. Do a quick search and you'll find tons of information on how to make a setup to spin your arrows and broadheads to confirm they are aligned. It only takes a few minutes and pays off huge.
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deerman41
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Re: Slick Tricks shooting wild

Post by deerman41 »

Riflemanz wrote:I've shot slick tricks out of my 355 with BEE arrows and they flew like darts! What kind of arrows are you shooting?
18"spinal tapps 110 gr inserts, 3" blazers, spine indexed from Jerry at South Shore
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deerman41
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Re: Slick Tricks shooting wild

Post by deerman41 »

Quintehunter wrote:Basically the answer is YES. Since the blades of a broadhead act as airfoils, if there is any wobble at all it will affect accuracy. Do a quick search and you'll find tons of information on how to make a setup to spin your arrows and broadheads to confirm they are aligned. It only takes a few minutes and pays off huge.
Thanks Quintehunter, I'm still learning, didn't think it could affect it that much
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jefrohio
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Re: Slick Tricks shooting wild

Post by jefrohio »

Make sure the washer is facing the right way, the rounded edge should be facing forward towards the tip. Hope this helps. Jefro
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MTBighorn
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Re: Slick Tricks shooting wild

Post by MTBighorn »

jefrohio wrote:Make sure the washer is facing the right way, the rounded edge should be facing forward towards the tip. Hope this helps. Jefro
+1 on Jefro's post!... this is the biggest mystery about the ST's, and it's not easy to see,..but it makes all the difference in the world.
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deerman41
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Re: Slick Tricks shooting wild

Post by deerman41 »

jefrohio wrote:Make sure the washer is facing the right way, the rounded edge should be facing forward towards the tip. Hope this helps. Jefro
I didn't know this at all!
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paulaboutform
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Re: Slick Tricks shooting wild

Post by paulaboutform »

Another thing to do is check your brace height. If your limb tiller is out you can still shoot bullseyes with field points but fixed broadheads with expose the truth about what's happening. Are the claw marks on your center serving equal and centered? Do you have odd, uneven ware on your serving from the rail? These are all signs of limb issues that may be present and need to be addressed. Have you run a cotton ball along all your limb edges? Check all your fasteners as well. I can't see the erratic flight you're describing with slick tricks. I've only ever found them to be extremely accurate.

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Re: Slick Tricks shooting wild

Post by SEW »

paulaboutform wrote:Another thing to do is check your brace height. If your limb tiller is out you can still shoot bullseyes with field points but fixed broadheads with expose the truth about what's happening. Are the claw marks on your center serving equal and centered? Do you have odd, uneven ware on your serving from the rail? These are all signs of limb issues that may be present and need to be addressed. Have you run a cotton ball along all your limb edges? Check all your fasteners as well. I can't see the erratic flight you're describing with slick tricks. I've only ever found them to be extremely accurate.

Paul
Agree totally. When fixed blade don't shoot well out of a Xbow but a fp (of the same weight) does, then it's not coming out straight or won't spin test well.
I found that STs do best out of my 380 & 400 indexed at 3,6,9,12. I wouldn't think it'd make much difference out of these bow, but it does.
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deerman41
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Re: Slick Tricks shooting wild

Post by deerman41 »

paulaboutform wrote:Another thing to do is check your brace height. If your limb tiller is out you can still shoot bullseyes with field points but fixed broadheads with expose the truth about what's happening. Are the claw marks on your center serving equal and centered? Do you have odd, uneven ware on your serving from the rail? These are all signs of limb issues that may be present and need to be addressed. Have you run a cotton ball along all your limb edges? Check all your fasteners as well. I can't see the erratic flight you're describing with slick tricks. I've only ever found them to be extremely accurate.

Paul
Thanks, I will check all this, learning more all the time! Brace height is ok, I check it often
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grizzly72
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Re: Slick Tricks shooting wild

Post by grizzly72 »

I just had the same issue, I found it was my own dumb mistake. I had my stirrup wrapped and it was contacting the fletching. Maybe check if you have your stirrup wrapped.
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Re: Slick Tricks shooting wild

Post by Boo »

With broadheads like Slick Tricks that rely on a washer to seat the blades, a slight miss-alignment can make the ferrule tilt. Slick Tricks have made me crazy trying to get them perfectly straight. Go slow when screwing in the broadhead and when it starts to seat, turn the washer to try to seat the blades evenly. Then put the arrow on a spin tester and put the point of the broadhead against a cardboard box and check to make sure the tip cuts a single tiny hole. If it is out of alignment, the tip will not make a pin point hole.
Spin testers don't have to be expensive. Some sold are very reasonable and of course you can make your own. A simple one is to hot glue 2 marbles next to each other and then another two 10" to 14" from the first set. If you're really cheap you can use the first one below.
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Of course all is lost if the face of your front insert isn't square to the axis of the arrow shaft. It's a good idea to square them when they are new and when you switch from target points to broadheads.
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