fletching removal

[Square_hammer]

Hi guys, i have a couple bolts i need to refletch. I used the blue top gorilla glue when i fletched them the first time. How do i get the fletches and glue off? Thanks

[xcaliber]

There are a few tools commercially designed to strip vanes, but a sharp knife will work. Be careful not to gouge the shaft! Scrape carefully to the shaft, then use Acetone to clean the area before applying new vanes. Norway makes a pretty good arrow vane stripping tool, and Bohning as well.

[Boo]

The Norway Zip Strip is the best tool I've used. But if you're careful, you can use anything sharp, just don't let the edge of the blade dig into the shaft. I've used Olfa knives but if you aren't really good at controlling the blade, use a dull Olfa knife.
You can follow up with a 3M pad to remove the residual glue and then give it a good scrub with a cotton rag soaked in acetone.

[ThunderXB]

I've also use the zip strip tool and it works pretty good, but if you're careful, like they say above, any sharp edged instrument (knife, etc.) will do.

A 100% COPPER, and copper only, scrub pad works great for taking off additional residue.

What has worked really well for me is get most off with the zip strip and copper pad, then just drop the mostly/partially cleaned shaft (fletch end of course) into a can of acetone and leave it there for about 5-15 minutes while you're working on other arrows.

A quick wipe or final pad scrub and it's squeaky, literally, clean.

[paulaboutform]

I've also use the zip strip tool and it works pretty good, but if you're careful, like they say above, any sharp edged instrument (knife, etc.) will do.

A 100% COPPER, and copper only, scrub pad works great for taking off additional residue.

What has worked really well for me is get most off with the zip strip and copper pad, then just drop the mostly/partially cleaned shaft (fletch end of course) into a can of acetone and leave it there for about 5-15 minutes while you're working on other arrows.

A quick wipe or final pad scrub and it's squeaky, literally, clean.

Yup, same here. I actually keep a jar of acetone dedicated to cleaning inserts and arrows. I no longer scrub but after the initial soak I use paper towel and clean acetone to clean the shaft. Remove your plastic nock before submerging your shaft of course.

Paul

[wapster]

I like my ole trusty stanly knife.....put a new blade in it first. Then one wipe with acetone....

[hankenhunter]

I shave off as much off as I can, then use a bowl acetone with a metal pot scrubber. I think the slight abrasive action of the pot scrubber adds a very slight texture to the arrow that facilitates better vane bonding. I read somewhere that getting acetone inside a carbon arrow is bad for it because it lacks the coating that the outside has. How true this is I don't know but I avoid it just so be safe.
Hank

[paulaboutform]

I shave off as much off as I can, then use a bowl acetone with a metal pot scrubber. I think the slight abrasive action of the pot scrubber adds a very slight texture to the arrow that facilitates better vane bonding. I read somewhere that getting acetone inside a carbon arrow is bad for it because it lacks the coating that the outside has. How true this is I don't know but I avoid it just so be safe.
Hank

I submerge my arrows in the acetone and have found no negative affects.

Paul

[Doe Master]

Back when I was using fletch-tite . All I had to do was put the arrows in the freezer .
I have a dedicated acetone can now .

[OldWolf]

I use Bohning's The Stripper with pretty good results. I'm now using Fletch-Tite Platinum and I'm happy with it. It has a 2 day cure period but it's holding up well, removal is much easier, there's less chance of gouging and there's no need for acetone. JMO

[JeffTWilliams]

Potato/carrot peeler.Works good for vane and glue removal...give it a try!