2213's and Current Excalibur Models

[10Ring]

I see that the current line up uses 18" or 16.5" arrows, depending on the model; regardless, the spec.'s cal for a minimum 350 grain arrow.

I wanted to see if anyone was using 2213 XX75 shafts, this would be only for target use.

I have checked the components I have either by powder scale of the online Easton chart.

Fletching, 3"Plastic: 27 grains for three

Aluminium Inserts: 50 grains for two

2213's: 9.8 grains/1" from Easton

Approx. calculated assembled weight with 125 grain field points

16.5" 2213 is 359 grains

18" 2213 is 376 grains

These could be increased by 25 grains, by using 150 grain points


If I were to get back into this game, even though I sold my Vixen and Exocet, I still kept a large supply of 20" XX75 2213's

[gerald strine]

I have not shot the 2213 shaft size but I do shoot aluminum shafts out of my Matrix 350 , xx75 ,2219 and my Vintage Craved Tip Excoet came with 2117 aluminum bolts in the right stuff bow package and with a heavy head fly great.
Excalibur was only offering carbon shafts for quite a while but have brought the aluminum bolts back in their offerings see link.

http://www.excaliburcrossbow.com/accessories/arrows-accessories/

The 2213 is a pretty thin wall thickness not to sure if it would be a great choices for the higher poundage bows but I have not actually tried them.

[10Ring]

I did successfully shoot them for 3D off an Exocet 15 years ago.

The Exocet was 200#'s

For targets, I might be looking at a Matrix Grizzly which is listed at the same weight with a shorter power stroke.

[gerald strine]

I think you would be fine have them cut to a length that the bolt almost comes to far end of the stirrup but not past.
The shorter power stroke will increase the force on the bolt to get the same speed as your old bow but the shorter bolt will stiffen the shaft so it most likely will be a wash but let us know your findings.

[wabi]

I have shot Excaliburs for a lot of years. Started with a "black" Vixen and I have always preferred aluminum arrows. I have found the thicker the shaft walls, the better the arrow will hold up. 2213s were loosing accuracy with much less use than 2215s, 2216s, or 2219s. I currently use 2216s and 100 grain points in my Phoenix.
If I had a huge supply of 2213s I'd probably use them, but when one starts loosing accuracy I'd junk it.

[10Ring]

Wabi

Thanks, it has been a long time since I have been here, and seen your posts.

I did have good luck with 2213's off my old Vixen but I am careful with my stuff.

The thin walled 2213's do dent and get damaged more easily.

One advantage is that I still have my real nice Arten Arroset and can check shafts for straightness.

I am not sure where I am going at this point, I was looking for a shooting sport that did not have the ammo expenditure of clay target shooting, for my upcoming retirement.

What I do will depend on local club activity and camaraderie of the membership, if that looks good I will see, looks like I could use my stock of 2213's, though, which is good.

[Farmer]

2213's will probably have insufficient spine . I tried 2216 shafts in my M380 and they were bent after 1 or 2 shots. I would be leery of using a 2213 in the heavier poundage bows

[Ekkie]

2213's will probably have insufficient spine . I tried 2216 shafts in my M380 and they were bent after 1 or 2 shots. I would be leery of using a 2213 in the heavier poundage bows

Wow, I wouldn't have thought a 2216 would bend after only a couple of shots out of a 380. I've got a 380+ (a custom job with a mainframe a fraction of an inch longer than a standard M380) and regularly shoot 2219s. I haven't had problems with them bending or losing accuracy at all; maybe 50-100 shots on my current batch with no issues. Maybe that extra wall thickness makes a bigger difference than I expected?

~E

[10Ring]

I would be looking at a Grizzly which lists at 305 fps.

I don't need a higher velocity for what I want to do.

[wabi]

I might mention I also found (by trial & error) the shafts that lost accuracy were a lot more frequent occurrence when shooting foam and pulling arrows by hand. A "Danny Miller" puller and attention to pulling straight (with a slight twist to break adhesion from heat) really increased the life of an arrow.
The same attention to carefully pulling the arrows from bag targets will increase their life, too.

[Farmer]

2213's will probably have insufficient spine . I tried 2216 shafts in my M380 and they were bent after 1 or 2 shots. I would be leery of using a 2213 in the heavier poundage bows

Wow, I wouldn't have thought a 2216 would bend after only a couple of shots out of a 380. I've got a 380+ (a custom job with a mainframe a fraction of an inch longer than a standard M380) and regularly shoot 2219s. I haven't had problems with them bending or losing accuracy at all; maybe 50-100 shots on my current batch with no issues. Maybe that extra wall thickness makes a bigger difference than I expected?

~E

I have had good luck with 2219 shafts in my 380 as well , my remaining 2216 shafts are now just for my Y25 ,

[SEW]

I’ve been experimenting with AL shafts with 2216 & 2219 s. The Aluminum itself will degrade because of stresses on it. Less point weight, less target impact stress will help preserve the arrows. The AL arrows seem to require less FOC than carbon, offset fletching requires less FOC, arrow release fluid on the arrow helps reduce heating of the arrow and impact stress. Bag targets, Spyderweb targets help also.
My 2216s have held up well but 2219s will likely be the primary arrow. The accuracy differences between well made 2219s and Zombies are marginal at best. I do prefer the 2219 in ways. The carbon arrows don’t degrade as do the AL arrows.
Don’t know yet which I’ll be using this coming hunting season.

[paulaboutform]

Just a suggestion....if you're only using them for target leave them full length and see what you think. If you aren't sitting in a blind with the loaded bow resting on the stirrup the extra arrow length won't matter.

Paul

[Ekkie]

I’ve been experimenting with AL shafts with 2216 & 2219 s. The Aluminum itself will degrade because of stresses on it. Less point weight, less target impact stress will help preserve the arrows. The AL arrows seem to require less FOC than carbon, offset fletching requires less FOC, arrow release fluid on the arrow helps reduce heating of the arrow and impact stress. Bag targets, Spyderweb targets help also.
My 2216s have held up well but 2219s will likely be the primary arrow. The accuracy differences between well made 2219s and Zombies are marginal at best. I do prefer the 2219 in ways. The carbon arrows don’t degrade as do the AL arrows.
Don’t know yet which I’ll be using this coming hunting season.

Awesome... looking forward to hearing what your results are. AL arrows in theory lose their spine with many shots, but I can't remember that being an issue with 2219s yet. I always seem to put them through an animal first (I retire a successful hunting arrow after taking an animal). Or sometimes I get stupid and damage arrows by shooting groups. Heh. Maybe someday I'll learn that it's easy to wreck crossbow arrows even from 50+ yards.

What vanes are you using on your aluminum arrows? I've been busy lately and haven't gotten around to fletching them up yet, but I've picked up a few Goat Tuff Opti-Vane II's to try out. They seem like a pretty nice vane, and I haven't read any negative reviews on them yet. I had Jerry at South Shore fletch me up some SK-300s onto 2219 shafts, but for some reason his fletching technique failed and they pretty much all fell off with just a shot or two. When I fletch my own I use a scotch-brite pad on the shaft and haven't had any adhesion issues.

~E

[SEW]

Im using SK300s in offset and Blazers in offset and helical. For 90+% of us , I think the Zombies with the long inserts and offset SK300s will be best for most of us. Testing isn’t nearly over.
SW