Received 12 new Quills Plus 3 New Lumenok Quills

[Stepnoutnb]

Well my Micro 355 came with 4 Quills made buy Easton. I ordered 12 new Quills Plus 3 New Lumenok Quills. The lumenok quills are made by Easton but the 12 new regular quills are made by Black Eagle. I suppose they are just built to Excalibur’s specs.
What are your thoughts? Are Black Eagles any better than Easton? Im sure the distance I’ll be shooting I’ll never know the difference. I will say I believe I have one original jEaston Quill that is a flyer. When I have time to go to our pistol range (50 yards banked 12 feet high on 3 sides to rule out wind) I’ll really be able to try each arrow on each vane to make sure all bolts are grouping as should be. I’ll mark the vanes to identify best position on the rail. I’m also thinking of grouping field points and bolts by weight and then buy best groupings.

[janesy]

Your new quills are black eagle Executioners, built to excals specs.
You should see a gain in consistency over the Easton's. In short, The BEE are stiffer and will allow for better flight from your micro.
In my opinion, side by side, the BEE quills are assembled to tighter tolerances.

[Stepnoutnb]

Your new quills are black eagle Executioners, built to excals specs.
You should see a gain in consistency over the Easton's. In short, The BEE are stiffer and will allow for better flight from your micro.
In my opinion, side by side, the BEE quills are assembled to tighter tolerances.

Thank you, you may recall I posted about my original Easton Quills having glue in the inserts and I couldn’t get the field point in. I believe it was your suggestion to use acetone, I used acetone nail polish remover. I noticed there is very sloppy glue on the Easton Quills. I’m wondering if the FNPREMOVER. Will clean up the Extra glue Easton shafts with out damaging the carbon fibre.

[janesy]

I can't say for certain, I don't know what FNPREMOVER is or what chemicals it is blended with.

I would suggest for arrow work you go on over to your local Home Hardware and get straight acetone. It will not damage the carbon and is cheap. It is commonly used in arrow building.

With that said, I use acetone all the time, but I do try to keep the acetone/carbon contact as low as possible just in case there ever where extended contact issues I've never seen. Some people on the board prefer no chemical contact to the carbon, and they may be merit to that as well.