Nock Removal

[chilly_willy]

Hey Guys, thinking about using lighted nocks this year. What's the best way to remove the aluminum nocks. Also any thoughts on what lighted nocks to use. Thanks Bill

[Boo]

I am always afraid of removing glued in nocks because being AR, I am afraid of compromising the shafts. What I would do is leave them in a freezer with a field point in the nock. Then after a day in the freezer, throw them point first into a concrete floor. Putting them in a freezer will make the nock shrink and the carbon won't. The hope is that the bond is weakened. Smacking them on the floor while still frozen may work because a very cold glue should become brittle.
If all else fails, screw in a field tip, heat the tip up with a propane torch and pull. Over heating will definitely compromise the shaft.

[janesy]

One way I have had good luck on the old Easton shafts was to lay a big 150 grain field oint on the stove until it it very hot. Pick it up with pliers and then screw the arrow onto it. Hold the arrow with your bare fingers at the nock or insert and as son as the heat begins to feel hot on your fingers turn the arrow.

That way if it ever gets to hot to hold, the arrow is over heated and you can quickly remove the field point and abandon the removal before you over heat the carbon. Your fingers will burn before the carbon does.

But as mentioned by another member Bill before, set a 8/32 threaded rod into a soldier iron and you can apply direct heat much more controlled. If you thread a nut onto the rod before you screw it into the insert you can effectively double nut against the insert and use that to turn the insert slightly as the heat increases just as you remove it

[AJ01]

I tried the heating up part. You have to wait until the glue almost starts to smoke from the heat. They make a tool that is available online that was designed with this adventure in mind. It's basically a modified soldering tool that screws into the flat nock. A field point or screw that is screwed into the nock and then heated works.
( I think I posted about this subject somewhere on here before).

I tried this on standard Quill arrows for a micro series bow. and it's like Boo and Janesy said, you have to be SUPER careful not to mess up the carbon shaft. If you overheat the shaft, you have an accident looking for a place to happen!!

I finally decided I wasn't talented enough to address this issue. Nor do I have an inclination to say "hold my beer and watch this"!!
I ended up just shooting the standard flat nocks for practice, or hunting big ugly hogs and coyotes. I bought custom BEE's from Dave at Wyvern to do my serious hunting with. Dave will gladly build them YOUR way!!
Been a happy camper ever since!!

And I still have all my body parts intact!!

[GrassyKnoll]

I screw a field point into the back of the aliminum nock and heat the field point only and the nocks, for me come out pretty easy..

[Robinsons Rebel]

I like Lumenoks. I asked the same question awhile back when switching some factory arrows to Lumenoks. What I setteled on was to screw a field point to the nock and dip the field point in boiling water from the microwave. When the field point heated up , I just used a pair of pliers to gently turn and pull. It took a few minutes to heat up but it didn't heat up so quick to damage the carbon shaft. Still shooting them today with no problems.

[flightattendant100]

Wise man told me once(Boo) “ cut and inch off.... nobody will ever know” That doesn’t compromise the carbon and he is right.... no one will ever know

[janesy]

Wise man told me once(Boo) “ cut and inch off.... nobody will ever know” That doesn’t compromise the carbon and he is right.... no one will ever know

That's the best advice yet. No adhesive residue to jamb up the luminock

[curious]

I have several arrows 1" short. It's the safest way. I have used the modified soldering iron with success also but timing is critical, a couple of seconds too much and the shaft is compromised.

[amythntr]

Wise man told me once(Boo) “ cut and inch off.... nobody will ever know” That doesn’t compromise the carbon and he is right.... no one will ever know

That's the best advice yet. No adhesive residue to jamb up the luminock

.....I have been using the 2" screw screwed into the insert. Heat until the screw head glows.....use needlenose pliers to pull....usually takes 2 heatings
each time.....those aluminum inserts in the excalibur (BEA) arras seem like they are a foot and a half long when trying to pull out ....make sure that you pull straight out or you will split the carbon fibers (don't ask me how I know )......

[papa bear1]

I screw a field point into the back of the aliminum nock and heat the field point only and the nocks, for me come out pretty easy..

[curious]

Wise man told me once(Boo) “ cut and inch off.... nobody will ever know” That doesn’t compromise the carbon and he is right.... no one will ever know

That's the best advice yet. No adhesive residue to jamb up the luminock

.....I have been using the 2" screw screwed into the insert. Heat until the screw head glows.....use needlenose pliers to pull....usually takes 2 heatings
each time.....those aluminum inserts in the excalibur (BEA) arras seem like they are a foot and a half long when trying to pull out ....make sure that you pull straight out or you will split the carbon fibers (don't ask me how I know )......

They are long alright


[https://i.postimg.cc/pVqvX3NV/20191217-195906-2016x1134-806x453.jpg][/img]

[curious]

Wrong insert picture is of front insert Lol

[W.Miguire]

A word of caution . When you use a soldering iron to remove a insert to must use a damp cloth or paper towel and wrap it around the shaft and apply the heat to prevent any damage to the shaft. this is the method o use with no problem at at all.
W.M.

[robertyb]

I went to HD and got a 26" 1/8" steel rod. I put the nock end of my arrows in boiling water for a minute or so and insert the rod through the insert and tap the nock loose with a hammer. Works about 90% of the time but I have a few nocks that I swear are welded into place. They are going to have to be cut out I guess.