Broadhead Analysis

[nchunterkw]

It's only an alluminum broadhead thin one too...it did its job why question it.
I love a straight on shot like that ....I'll go for the throat with a big expandable any day instead of the body .With the ghosblind a straight on shot is very common and the throat shot never fails but in my opinion a whimpy cut 11/8 fixed blade is not a good choice you need any big cut expandable for maximum damage.

But it didn't open and he only got a 1" cut. My 300gr VPA single bevel (1 1/8") likely would have blasted clean through the spine and not stopped = more damage. And it would not be thrown away. Just touched up.. Heck I just touched up the one I buried in a 4" sapling up to the ferrule after a pass thru..

My thought is the tip hit bone, the ferrule bent and the blades couldn't open with just the resistance of the neck meat. Then little blades embedded in the spine. To me those little blades took a lot of damage.

[AJ01]

I've shot a bunch of critters with these broadheads. The black "nose cone" is hardened steel. The barrel that holds the blades is aircraft grade aluminum.

Question?

Was the head "stuck" in the bone, or did you simply pull the arrow out thru the entrance whole?
The wing blade (on the left side in the pic), looks like it has a pretty good crunch to that portion of the cutter.
Did ya happen to check blade alignment before screwing on the head? That little "set screw" can sometimes be too tight, or in some cases too loose.
I check mine before they go in the quiver. and they get a small drop of clear nail polish. (Not mine, the Boss's!!)
I have seen them (the blades, NOT me), "off center" straight out of the package, sticking against the barrel just like in your photos.

Just some things to look at...

But...the broadhead still took the Deer! That's what counts. And Mark you know me, I love these broadheads!! They are my "Go To Head" for deer sized game!!




Just the ramblings of an Old Hillbilly Redneck!!

[flinthead]

I've shot a bunch of critters with these broadheads. The black "nose cone" is hardened steel. The barrel that holds the blades is aircraft grade aluminum.

Question?

Was the head "stuck" in the bone, or did you simply pull the arrow out thru the entrance whole?
The wing blade (on the left side in the pic), looks like it has a pretty good crunch to that portion of the cutter.
Did ya happen to check blade alignment before screwing on the head? That little "set screw" can sometimes be too tight, or in some cases too loose.
I check mine before they go in the quiver. and they get a small drop of clear nail polish. (Not mine, the Boss's!!)
I have seen them (the blades, NOT me), "off center" straight out of the package, sticking against the barrel just like in your photos.

Just some things to look at...

But...the broadhead still took the Deer! That's what counts. And Mark you know me, I love these broadheads!! They are my "Go To Head" for deer sized game!!




Just the ramblings of an Old Hillbilly Redneck!!

It was embedded in the bone AJ... when I tried to pull the arrow out of the deer, the dang insert came out! When I dropped the deer off at the processors, I told the skinning guy to save my broadhead and insert if he found it. A couple of days later I went back to retrieve it, but the owner (A friend of mine) said he hadn't seen it. Fast forward to Wednesday last week when I went to get my deer meat... My buddy hands me my two bags of deer meat then says... oh yeah, I found your broadhead when I was processing your deer... said I had to pull it out of the neck bone. I really wish he had left it in... would have made a cool display!!

[longbow joe]

My point was the throat is a small target with basically no resistance pennitration is a non issue and any giant expandable will do a ton of damage ...way more than a fixed whimpy 1 inch cut fixed.
I have practically decapitated deer with the superfreaks and even the big swat four blades .
I want to note that the broadside shot is the preferred thing but as said the ghosblind seems to just present these strait on scenarios unlike a treestand the deer cannot simple "walk by you " you are stuck with the shot or they literally walk into you.
If l were buffalo hunting the fixed blade would probably be my choice but a deer is not a Buffalo .
I'm not a big fan of the shwacker I think there are better expandables out there but they simply kill deer l have friends that loyally use them for years.
I have seen them kill deer with horrible embarrassing gut shots and other horrible shots but the animal was recovered simple because of the wide cut and wide damage that a little 1 inch cut fixed couldn't come close.
Even though it might not have opened ....he got a 1 inch whimpy cut the same as a fixed wound have done.
I do believe the theory that the broadhead got bent and the blades didn't open but as l said there are better tougher expandables to choose from also that will hold up much better.
For example a swat is short and stout lt dosnt bend because of its design and its four blades divide energy up better than 2 with more cutting happening.

[AJ01]

You're right Mark...the broadhead stuck in the bone would have made for a neat conversational piece for sure!!
Regardless of why or what happened to the broadhead, it did it's job. The deer is in the freezer.

AJ

[flinthead]

You're right Mark...the broadhead stuck in the bone would have made for a neat conversational piece for sure!!
Regardless of why or what happened to the broadhead, it did it's job. The deer is in the freezer.

AJ

All day!!

[janesy]

Dead deer!

[tomcat]

I had the very same circumstances a few years back with a Swhacker 100gr Crossbow(1.75"). They shot so well for me out of my faster bows I decided to use them that season.
Shot doe from high in a tree and hit her spine. She fell on the shot. BH was lodged in vertebrae with Tip broken off, 1 sheared wing blade and the ferrule was bent as well as blade channel was squished shut trapping the blades inside. The other wing blade was twisted almost broken. The hide had about a 3/4" entry slice.
Sure the BH did it's job, but so would've a FP. I went back to using my Steelheads and trying others. My Brother in Law continues to use them and loses several deer each season and also has had several cases on recovered deer of the blades being trapped in the channel when the ferrule contacts ribs or heavier bones leaving < 1" cut in and IF it doesn't contact any more bone exits with another 1" cut.
They are truly a "one time use" head and bend easily into some high density targets.
I did a lot of research on them because they flew so well, stayed shut etc..and found out the reason they are so fragile is the Aluminum Alloy(2024) used is pretty weak compared to other brands using 7075 alloy. In addition to the weaker alloy, you also need to consider the blade channel reduces at least half of the ferrule's material along it's length. Rage's also have a blade channel and same amount of material removed for it's blade channel...HOWEVER using a rear deploying blades the channel bending shut can't trap the blades inside..
Swhacker has tried to market a Steel version to compete with the steel Rage Hypodermic and Titanium Trypan..and I'm confident they would eliminate the issues mentioned, however they just don't seem to have taken off or gathered very many fans...

I've used the Rage's (Hypodermic and Crossbow Extremes)this year across the board for myself, sons and Dad to harvest 8 deer and all performed exceptional.

As a side note..The ONLY deer I had an issue on was using a Ramcat Savage out of my 380. On the shot the blades opened and hit low and back just strafing the paunch. I backed out and recovered it the following morning. FWIW I had thoroughly tested these through paper(and others including Rages)this summer to ensure they weren't prematurely deploying, so my ONLY explanation is the O-ring MUST've been nicked/cracked...To substantiate this, I also found the O-ring split but slid up the shaft on the arrow recovered in the snow/leaves. When shooting these into Targets during testing sighting in, the O-rings would simply slide up the shaft and I of course reused them. It is very possible that I overlooked installing a new O-ring on that specific head prior to putting it in the quiver, or it contacted one of the exposed blade heads I have in my quiver during the early season. IDK. but I'll definitely pay closer attention to that in the future if I run them again next season.

[tomcat]

[flinthead]

Everyone who hunts with archery gear has to pick a broadhead… I like Muzzy… Rocket… and Swhacker. In my case the body of the Swhacker did not bend and trap the blades… they still move freely back in and out. Think about this… what deploys the main blades on broadheads like the Swhacker and Muzzy Shank?? The wing blades… if the body of the broadhead enters bone up to the wing blades but not completely through the bone how can the main blades now deploy… they are encased in bone.

[AJ01]

I don't care WHAT type of broadhead you use, none are designed to penetrate bone on a daily basis! I had a Muzzy fixed blade break on a nice 10 point several years ago. The buck turned as I let the arrow fly, the head hit the shoulder and broke off at the insert. Broadhead's fault? Nope. Mine.
Never did find that buck that day, but I did manage to shoot that same buck 2 years later!! He had one heck of a scar on his left shoulder!!

I normally shoot at least 4 whitetails every year with Swhackers, the GREEN American made ones. (NOT the off-colored Chinese knockoffs). I also manage to shoot Axis, Fallow, Blackbuck, Sika, Javelina and assorted other critters with these same heads every year. I HUNT A Lot! I'm going to go "thin" a group of Blackbuck Does next month!! Oops, I digress.

I have on occasions used these same heads to shoot big nasty Hogs and even an Aoudad or two!! I don't recommend them for such critters!
Those critters are just plain tough!! Kinda like shooting a Waterbuck, Kudu or Nilgia. You better bring your favorite lunch if you're using a bow!!
I use a FIXED for such critters. However... if ALL I had was some 2" cut greens, I would indeed use them to shoot said critters!! But I'd be dang sure of my arrow placement!!
But I haven't because I use fixed for that, but I digress. AGAIN!!

Most of the time on the Swhackers, I simply resharpen the blades, put on a new band, and move on to the "next victim". I keep "extra blades" and change/replace them as I need them. Can't say that I've ever had a blade barrel bend on one. BUT...I'm sure there is a first time for everything. The blades are stainless steel and the barrel is "aircraft grade aluminum" according to the Swhacker website. I guess we need to "ground all flights" because of inferior aluminum.

No broadhead is capable in my humble opinion of reliably penetrating bone on any given day. I don't care if your shooting Rage, Muzzy, Truglo, Swhacker, RamCats, Montecs, Slick Trick, Grim Reaper, NAP's...It don't matter. They ain't a RIFLE ROUND!!
And not picking...but I have shoot stuff with .375 H&H and .416 Remington Magnum rounds and watched them trot off!! And any broadhead except one fired from a 20mm Cannon is a poor excuse compared to those 2 rounds!!

Shoot the critter in the "boiler room" and you'll have success. Don't do that, then you'll have a mess!! Don't blame the broadhead.

[AJ01]

Tech Specs: Blade thickness .031" Stainless Steel, 1 inch wide closed, 1 3/4 inches wide open, Length of head from insert to tip 1.850", Ferrule Dia at insert .350", Ferrule 2024-T4 Aluminum, Tip Hardened Steel hollow ground (threaded on), Screw 4-40 x .250 Grade 8 steel

Specs for the 100g 1.75 inch cut Swhacker off the website. Looks pretty tough to me!!

Be careful folks of what you buy being called something that it ain't!!



Made in America!!!

[AJ01]

2" cut AMERICAN MADE!!

[nchunterkw]

I don't care WHAT type of broadhead you use, none are designed to penetrate bone on a daily basis! I had a Muzzy fixed blade break on a nice 10 point several years ago. The buck turned as I let the arrow fly, the head hit the shoulder and broke off at the insert. Broadhead's fault? Nope. Mine.
Never did find that buck that day, but I did manage to shoot that same buck 2 years later!! He had one heck of a scar on his left shoulder!!

I normally shoot at least 4 whitetails every year with Swhackers, the GREEN American made ones. (NOT the off-colored Chinese knockoffs). I also manage to shoot Axis, Fallow, Blackbuck, Sika, Javelina and assorted other critters with these same heads every year. I HUNT A Lot! I'm going to go "thin" a group of Blackbuck Does next month!! Oops, I digress.

I have on occasions used these same heads to shoot big nasty Hogs and even an Aoudad or two!! I don't recommend them for such critters!
Those critters are just plain tough!! Kinda like shooting a Waterbuck, Kudu or Nilgia. You better bring your favorite lunch if you're using a bow!!
I use a FIXED for such critters. However... if ALL I had was some 2" cut greens, I would indeed use them to shoot said critters!! But I'd be dang sure of my arrow placement!!
But I haven't because I use fixed for that, but I digress. AGAIN!!

Most of the time on the Swhackers, I simply resharpen the blades, put on a new band, and move on to the "next victim". I keep "extra blades" and change/replace them as I need them. Can't say that I've ever had a blade barrel bend on one. BUT...I'm sure there is a first time for everything. The blades are stainless steel and the barrel is "aircraft grade aluminum" according to the Swhacker website. I guess we need to "ground all flights" because of inferior aluminum.

No broadhead is capable in my humble opinion of reliably penetrating bone on any given day. I don't care if your shooting Rage, Muzzy, Truglo, Swhacker, RamCats, Montecs, Slick Trick, Grim Reaper, NAP's...It don't matter. They ain't a RIFLE ROUND!!
And not picking...but I have shoot stuff with .375 H&H and .416 Remington Magnum rounds and watched them trot off!! And any broadhead except one fired from a 20mm Cannon is a poor excuse compared to those 2 rounds!!

Shoot the critter in the "boiler room" and you'll have success. Don't do that, then you'll have a mess!! Don't blame the broadhead.

But there are several things you can do to really up the lethality and penetration of an arrow.....even through bone.

1) Up your arrow weight.....to above 600gr
2) Use a BH that won't sustain any damage. I tried a 200 gr Single Bevel VPA 2 Blade BH this year. It is made of Premium Grade Tool Steel. It passed through a deer on a qtr to shot, and buried itself 1" deep in a 3" tree. I cut it down and dug it out and barely touched the edges to have it shave my arm. This year I plan to give one of their 3 blades a try. Why? Because blood trails can be tricky with a 2 blade and I hunt some very thick cover. But when the deer only go 50-60 yards, even then finding them isn't so bad.

I have no doubt that if Mark made this exact shot with my arrow that he would have had a complete pass through. Does that make the deer more deader? No. But IMHO, all the "The BH did it's job" comments are incorrect. An arrow kills by hemorrhaging. That damage is maximized when the arrow passes through the animal. No pass through, then the max damage not achieved. And if no pass through is because the BH sustained damage and bent or broke....BH FAILURE. Do you need to inflict max damage to kill a deer. Obviously not, but my goal is to get a pass through every time because while it may not be required it certainly won't hurt.

What do you have to lose by shooting a 600gr arrow at a deer, with a solid premium grade tool steel BH on the tip? Nothing
Added benefit...."deer setup" is also good for pigs, bears, elk, etc etc.

www.vparchery.com
100% Made in the USA!

[Normous]

But there are several things you can do to really up the lethality and penetration of an arrow.....even through bone.

1) Up your arrow weight.....to above 600gr

What do you have to lose by shooting a 600gr arrow at a deer, with a solid premium grade tool steel BH on the tip? Nothing
Added benefit...."deer setup" is also good for pigs, bears, elk, etc etc.

Keith, I had a member PM me telling me that my Custom 600 grain plus arrows are OBESE.... I had a good chuckle