Proflight 16.5 arrows

[bowmore]

Hi, I am a newbie on this forum.

I just bought a box of 6 proflight arrows 16'5 for my Excalibur 360td. These came equipped with the RHINO knocks. I want to use 3 of these arrows to replace the Rhino knock with Lumenok lighted knocks. Does anyone know how to remove the rhino knocks without damaging the arrow and prerare the arrow to receive GTF lumenok insert. ? Thank you

[AJ01]

I don't know if the nocks are glued in or not on the Pro's. If they are not, then simply take a small brass or steel rod, insert it thru the hole in the front insert (where the broadhead screws in) and drive the nock out that way.

[Boo]

Go back to the dealer and trade them in for the factory built Black Eagle Arrows and then just pop the Lumenoks in. It is possible to damage the carbon shaft when you remove the glued in nocks. Some guys heat the nocks a little at a time when pulling on the nocks. You could easily damage the shaft if you overheat. I've read where others have froze them with canned air from the inside and then smacked the nocks. The theory being that the nock shrinks more than the shaft and makes the glue brittle. I'm pretty sure that option number 1 is the best. You'll end up with a heavier brass insert with better FOC and can add additional weight to the back side of the front insert as well.

[bowmore]

Thank you guys appreciate the feedback

[janesy]

Go back to the dealer and trade them in for the factory built Black Eagle Arrows and then just pop the Lumenoks in. It is possible to damage the carbon shaft when you remove the glued in nocks. Some guys heat the nocks a little at a time when pulling on the nocks. You could easily damage the shaft if you overheat. I've read where others have froze them with canned air from the inside and then smacked the nocks. The theory being that the nock shrinks more than the shaft and makes the glue brittle. I'm pretty sure that option number 1 is the best. You'll end up with a heavier brass insert with better FOC and can add additional weight to the back side of the front insert as well.

X2 on buying factory arrows.

I have removed nocks from a BE excalibur arrow once, and it was a nightmare. They use a much stronger adhesive than Easton ever did and you will most definatly damage the carbon if you apply heat.

[grouse]

I've removed the factory nocks from quite a few Black Eagle arrows, both Zombies and Executioners. None of them have been glued. The long end of a metal coat hanger works well. Just cut the bottom wire from the hanger and (with no tip installed) pop the nock from the inside a couple of times. They have always come right off for me.

[janesy]

I've removed the factory nocks from quite a few Black Eagle arrows, both Zombies and Executioners. None of them have been glued. The long end of a metal coat hanger works well. Just cut the bottom wire from the hanger and (with no tip installed) pop the nock from the inside a couple of times. They have always come right off for me.

Factory black eagle or proflight?

BE are plastic friction fit, not glued. Every proflight I've ever handled was most definitely glued.

[grouse]

I've removed the factory nocks from quite a few Black Eagle arrows, both Zombies and Executioners. None of them have been glued. The long end of a metal coat hanger works well. Just cut the bottom wire from the hanger and (with no tip installed) pop the nock from the inside a couple of times. They have always come right off for me.

Factory black eagle or proflight?

BE are plastic friction fit, not glued. Every proflight I've ever handled was most definitely glued.

I didn't think you were talking about proflights since your post referenced BE Excaliburs, which I assumed were some kind of Black Eagle arrow.

[AJ01]

I've removed the factory nocks from quite a few Black Eagle arrows, both Zombies and Executioners. None of them have been glued. The long end of a metal coat hanger works well. Just cut the bottom wire from the hanger and (with no tip installed) pop the nock from the inside a couple of times. They have always come right off for me.

Factory black eagle or proflight?

BE are plastic friction fit, not glued. Every proflight I've ever handled was most definitely glued.

Chris, it's nice to see someone cleared up that fact on the Pro's. I thought they were like others and just a "push fit" not glued. I've never owned any, so I didn't know for sure.
Perhaps that will clear up some questions for other Forum members.
Nice job!!

[janesy]

I've removed the factory nocks from quite a few Black Eagle arrows, both Zombies and Executioners. None of them have been glued. The long end of a metal coat hanger works well. Just cut the bottom wire from the hanger and (with no tip installed) pop the nock from the inside a couple of times. They have always come right off for me.

Factory black eagle or proflight?

BE are plastic friction fit, not glued. Every proflight I've ever handled was most definitely glued.

I didn't think you were talking about proflights since your post referenced BE Excaliburs, which I assumed were some kind of Black Eagle arrow.

Ya I guess I should have called them proflights, my bad. I called them excaliburs just because they have 4 different arrow configurations, now 8 if you count the rhino nock arrows vs the old standard aluminum flat nock as their own, made by Black Eagle.

Either way, whatever model on black eagle factory excalibur arrow is, in my opinion, not worth removing the nock. It's doable, but not a reliably safe method. Easton, no problem.

[janesy]

I've removed the factory nocks from quite a few Black Eagle arrows, both Zombies and Executioners. None of them have been glued. The long end of a metal coat hanger works well. Just cut the bottom wire from the hanger and (with no tip installed) pop the nock from the inside a couple of times. They have always come right off for me.

Factory black eagle or proflight?

BE are plastic friction fit, not glued. Every proflight I've ever handled was most definitely glued.

Chris, it's nice to see someone cleared up that fact on the Pro's. I thought they were like others and just a "push fit" not glued. I've never owned any, so I didn't know for sure.
Perhaps that will clear up some questions for other Forum members.
Nice job!!

Andy I have to admit I have never tried to remove a Rhino nock. But given the job they are engineered to do, I'd be dumbfounded if they could be easily removed. If they were not glued, they would pull out all the time and stay in the trigger box. It would literally turn your crossbow a loaded gun.

[AJ01]

Factory black eagle or proflight?

BE are plastic friction fit, not glued. Every proflight I've ever handled was most definitely glued.

Chris, it's nice to see someone cleared up that fact on the Pro's. I thought they were like others and just a "push fit" not glued. I've never owned any, so I didn't know for sure.
Perhaps that will clear up some questions for other Forum members.
Nice job!!

Andy I have to admit I have never tried to remove a Rhino nock. But given the job they are engineered to do, I'd be dumbfounded if they could be easily removed. If they were not glued, they would pull out all the time and stay in the trigger box. It would literally turn your crossbow a loaded gun.

Good point Chris. I'm sure they are glued and glued very well at that!
Thank you for the input.

[DuckHunt]

Yes, they are certainly glued. I removed the rhino nocks and inserts from the ProFlight arrows that came with my Micro 380 so I could add brass up front and Lumenoks for use on a different bow. I added just enough heat to a field tip to get the glue to budge. It wasn't as hard to do as with some previous arrows I've struggled with, but it could be that I've just had more practice. I agree that the best option would be to NOT remove them because there certainly is the opportunity a mess up a shaft in a number of ways. It's real easy to put a hairline crack in a shaft which could effectively ruin it.