Rhino Nocks

[lunghit]

Hello, I received some arrows with the Rhino nocks installed and I want to remove them to play around with some insert weights. Are the Rhino nocks glued or pressed in? Thanks in advance.

[Carnivorous]

They be glued...

[lunghit]

They be glued...

Well that explains why I can't get them out lol.

[lunghit]

What would the best way to get them out? I can thread a screw in the back of the nock and try heating that screw up a touch and pulling on them? That might loosen up the glue enough.

[Normous]

Go real slow to prevent fletching glue softening and cursing.

[Boo]

You can warm the nock by screwing in a long field tip and while heating the field tip only, pull and turn. The problem is that the temperature that destroys the integrity of the shaft is close to the temperatures that release the glue that holds the nock. Keep in mind that the arrow is right in your face, so weigh the risk of an arrow self destructing in your face to buying new arrows.
I don't know how long the shank of the nock is but a safer route is the cut the nock off but them you have to refletch.
Something I read on another forum. Someone was spraying canned air into the shaft until liquid came of the can to get the insert and glue super cold cold. He smacked the insert and it came lose. I do not know if it actually works but if you're determined to still take the risk, it seems to me to be a more safe route if it works.

Few of us here use the OE arrows because of the lower FOC(forward weight of center). That lower FOC restricts the use of 100 gr broadheads because of poor accuracy.

[lunghit]

Well that was an expensive mistake because I destroyed 4 Black Eagle Zombie Slayers. I heated up 4 nocks, removed them and everything seemed to be going well. I screwed in some 50 grain weights into the inserts and then went to clean the inside of the shaft to re-glue the nocks. While using my carbon arrow prep tool I heard some creaking and cracking sounds (the distinct noise of carbon breaking) and kind of knew right away I ruined the arrows. I pushed in a Rhino nock and sure enough there were cracks in the shaft .

Boo I wish I read your post before I did all this lol. But at least I caught it and didn't have one explode on me. I will most likely buy 150 grain field points and broadheads because that will take me right to 500 grains I wanted to be at. Live and learn.

[lunghit]

You can warm the nock by screwing in a long field tip and while heating the field tip only, pull and turn. The problem is that the temperature that destroys the integrity of the shaft is close to the temperatures that release the glue that holds the nock. Keep in mind that the arrow is right in your face, so weigh the risk of an arrow self destructing in your face to buying new arrows.
I don't know how long the shank of the nock is but a safer route is the cut the nock off but them you have to refletch.
Something I read on another forum. Someone was spraying canned air into the shaft until liquid came of the can to get the insert and glue super cold cold. He smacked the insert and it came lose. I do not know if it actually works but if you're determined to still take the risk, it seems to me to be a more safe route if it works.

Few of us here use the OE arrows because of the lower FOC(forward weight of center). That lower FOC restricts the use of 100 gr broadheads because of poor accuracy.

Are you saying I'd be better off going with the heavier broadhead?

[wheelsquad]

I have a tool for pulling inserts and flat nocks. Have only been able to successfully use it with the old Easton shaft excalibur arrows. With anything that is Black Eagle shafted...Excal seems to have changed the glue with that switch, or the same glue just holds better. I can get them to come out, but not without ruing the carbon.

I don't bother trying to remove them anymore, cause it is not worth destroying the shaft for it. Sorry I didn't see this soon enough to save you from ruining 4.

[wheelsquad]

[Boo]

You can warm the nock by screwing in a long field tip and while heating the field tip only, pull and turn. The problem is that the temperature that destroys the integrity of the shaft is close to the temperatures that release the glue that holds the nock. Keep in mind that the arrow is right in your face, so weigh the risk of an arrow self destructing in your face to buying new arrows.
I don't know how long the shank of the nock is but a safer route is the cut the nock off but them you have to refletch.
Something I read on another forum. Someone was spraying canned air into the shaft until liquid came of the can to get the insert and glue super cold cold. He smacked the insert and it came lose. I do not know if it actually works but if you're determined to still take the risk, it seems to me to be a more safe route if it works.

Few of us here use the OE arrows because of the lower FOC(forward weight of center). That lower FOC restricts the use of 100 gr broadheads because of poor accuracy.

Are you saying I'd be better off going with the heavier broadhead?

There's a very good chance that accuracy won't be as good as it could be if you stick to a 100 gr broadhead with the factory arrows. It will reach minimum arrow weight and get you speed but most guys who care about accuracy and are using the factory arrows use a 150 gr broadhead. There is a limited choice of 150 gr broadheads.

[lunghit]

You can warm the nock by screwing in a long field tip and while heating the field tip only, pull and turn. The problem is that the temperature that destroys the integrity of the shaft is close to the temperatures that release the glue that holds the nock. Keep in mind that the arrow is right in your face, so weigh the risk of an arrow self destructing in your face to buying new arrows.
I don't know how long the shank of the nock is but a safer route is the cut the nock off but them you have to refletch.
Something I read on another forum. Someone was spraying canned air into the shaft until liquid came of the can to get the insert and glue super cold cold. He smacked the insert and it came lose. I do not know if it actually works but if you're determined to still take the risk, it seems to me to be a more safe route if it works.

Few of us here use the OE arrows because of the lower FOC(forward weight of center). That lower FOC restricts the use of 100 gr broadheads because of poor accuracy.

Are you saying I'd be better off going with the heavier broadhead?

There's a very good chance that accuracy won't be as good as it could be if you stick to a 100 gr broadhead with the factory arrows. It will reach minimum arrow weight and get you speed but most guys who care about accuracy and are using the factory arrows use a 150 gr broadhead. There is a limited choice of 150 gr broadheads.

Great I appreciate the information. I was going to look into the Sevr 150 grain for mechanicals and Iron Will for fixed. I have had excellent luck with the Iron Wills in my vertical bows.

[gerald strine]

For 150 gr fixed I recommend the slick trick x bow 150 grain head , they are very tuff , fly excellent and kill very well.
Or the tooth of the arrow make great heads in heavy weights also.

[janesy]

Darn, I was going to advise against pulling BE components.

Best option asside from custom is just order some w0" black eagle fletched Executioners and cut them to whatever you need and clean and reglue the insert. Not easy, but hard to destroy an arrow.

[Normous]

SWAT broadheads is releasing their 150 gr all steel compact mechanical as we speak. 2" x 1.5" cut.

This new 2023 release head should make a bunch of crossbow users using factory weight arrows happy.