Insert help.

AirForceVet · Post by **AirForceVet** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 9:05 am

Like most of ya know I'm new at this.... I was trying to save money of course, and ordered some GT Lazer II's I found from a guy selling them at $50.00 a dozen (5.00 S&H), I told them I wanted the brass inserts......

well I got the box today, and had what you see in the picture. I guess the brass inserts go on the broadhead end as the broadhead don't fit the aluminum ones. I was not told I had to put them in....I was to dumb to ask , guess that is what a guy gets for assuming.

My question is>>> is there a special glue that is required. or will a HOT GLUE gun (like the wifey's) work. as they seem to slide in shaft fairly loosely.

You help is again appreciated.

GREYWOLF · Post by **GREYWOLF** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 9:38 am

The heavy brass colord ones go in the point end , the alum. ones with the small hole are the flat nocks. Take a .223 wire brush and rough up the inside , ana then use 2 part 5 minute epoxy to glue both inserts in Craig

ecoaster · Post by **ecoaster** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 9:38 am

Use a super glue like Krazy Glue. Put a thin bead around the inside of the shaft and a bit more on the insert. Place the insert in the shaft and then push it on until it is tight. I hold the bolt and push the insert against something solid like a wall stud in your garage or something. Sometimes they are stubborn, so it helps if you can put your weight behind it. Make sure it is all the way in and wipe away any excess glue.

Yes the brass ones should go up front.

Boo · Post by **Boo** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 9:45 am

Don't forget to clean the interior of the shafts with 95% or greater alcohol with a Q-tip before applying glue or your inserts will eventually come out.

Makomachine · Post by **Makomachine** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 9:51 am

Tried 2 part long cure epoxy - lost inserts after a half dozen shots. Never had the problem before and have built up a lot of shafts over the years. Not sure if this is a gold tip carbon issue or not - but couldn't get it to set good.

I now have a bullet proof method that will hold those inserts - two words... GOAT TUFF

GREYWOLF · Post by **GREYWOLF** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 9:52 am

I make about 3 dozen a day now , and I had a problem with inserts pulling out , so about a year ago I called GOLD TIP; EASTON ,and BEAMAN I was told not to use alcohol or acetone as it leave a residue for at least 8 hrs. They said to wire brush and WATER only . I have had none pull out in a very long time now. Just for what its worth from my experiance

Boo · Post by **Boo** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:14 am

GREYWOLF wrote: I make about 3 dozen a day now , and I had a problem with inserts pulling out , so about a year ago I called GOLD TIP; EASTON ,and BEAMAN I was told not to use alcohol or acetone as it leave a residue for at least 8 hrs. They said to wire brush and WATER only . I have had none pull out in a very long time now. Just for what its worth from my experiance

Interesting, since I've been using 99% alcohol I haven't lost an insert since.

GREYWOLF · Post by **GREYWOLF** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:20 am

Well thats great and I am happy it works for you, but I do this for a living at a pro shop and my own CO. and I am just going by what I have been told by the Manufactures and what has been proven to work for all my costomers , But as usual there is more than one way to build something!

Makomachine · Post by **Makomachine** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:32 am

Tried several methods with the epoxy - hot water and brush only, no prep at all, and acetone - none worked on this last batch of arrows. Like I said, never had the problem before until now with the epoxy. The Goat Tuff worked first time out and I stuck a ST in a tree the other day and managed to get it pulled without losing the insert - that's stuck enough in my book...

GREYWOLF · Post by **GREYWOLF** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:37 am

Goat tuff is a great product , but a lot more costly than epoxy , The only epoxy we use is LOCTITE a name well known in many industries for there diverse line of adheaseves and produccts. I have several tubes of goat tuff and use it sometimes for vanes It is great stuff but expensive.

bj · Post by bj » Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:41 am

Makomachine wrote: The Goat Tuff worked first time out and I stuck a ST in a tree the other day and managed to get it pulled without losing the insert - that's stuck enough in my book...

"absolutely!!!"...it's all we will use now...in fact don't make a mistake getting the incorrect insert in the incorrect end

- getting it out will be a nightmare..

Wayne....

Boo · Post by **Boo** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 11:07 am

GREYWOLF wrote:Well thats great and I am happy it works for you, but I do this for a living at a pro shop and my own CO. and I am just going by what I have been told by the Manufactures and what has been proven to work for all my costomers , But as usual there is more than one way to build something!

Sorry if you missunderstood. I was only saying that it worked for me. I was not disputing what you said.

GREYWOLF · Post by **GREYWOLF** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 11:10 am

No problem , There are a lot of products out there and they all work and every one has there favorites

TYE · Post by **TYE** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 11:19 am

bj wrote:
Makomachine wrote: The Goat Tuff worked first time out and I stuck a ST in a tree the other day and managed to get it pulled without losing the insert - that's stuck enough in my book...
"absolutely!!!"...it's all we will use now...in fact don't make a mistake getting the incorrect insert in the incorrect end - getting it out will be a nightmare..

Wayne....

I glued my fingers together with Goat Tuff once when I was working at Saugeen Shafts

It was funny, cuz my fingers got glued together, and the vane and shaft were stuck to my hand too. It was an interesting situation.

AirForceVet · Post by **AirForceVet** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 5:35 pm

Want to THANK everyone for the great advice, I took a little of each from all.

Due to limited market availability in my area, and wanting to get back in the woods asap. I had to go with the Loc-tite route, while ruffing up and cleaning inside with denatured alcohol. I've shoot several times at target with tight insides and so far---no problems.

In my opinion, since i'm already sighted in, and can't use a tree stand, I have only one shot per bolt, hopfully that is all it will take to harvest a big buck.

Therefore as long as the loc-tite epoxy holds it on that one flight, it has done it's job, chances of me finding the bolt to reuse will be luck.