Getting ready to build some bolts with an Arizona EZ-Fletch and was looking for some advice regarding adhesives. What type of adhesive works best and has anybody developed any tricks or techniques for evenly applying it to the vanes without apply too much?
I use Blazer vanes and in the past have used Gorilla blue cap glue, which is impact-modified cyanoacrylate. This glue seems to work very well but I struggle to apply it evenly in small amounts to the mounting face of the vanes.
I would appreciate any tips or advice?
FLETCHING ADVICE NEEDED
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FLETCHING ADVICE NEEDED
Matrix Bulldog 440
BOO Custom Strings
Vortex Crossfire II
18 Inch Zombies with 110 Grain Brass Inserts
125 Grain Slick tricks
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BOO Custom Strings
Vortex Crossfire II
18 Inch Zombies with 110 Grain Brass Inserts
125 Grain Slick tricks
2 Inch Blazer Vanes with Right Helical
Re: FLETCHING ADVICE NEEDED
.....I use what south shore archery uses and that is VibraTite...never had any fletching come off...I also use their pen cleaner....and if it means anything to you...I use the SK-200 for fletching....I sold all my blazers...night and day compared to the blazers in terms of durability.....extremely tough!....finally, after trying just about all lighted nocks I have returned to the Lumenocks.
Anthony
1918 days till reirement
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1918 days till reirement
In a tough situation and wonder where God is; ...the Teacher is always quiet during the test.
Anthony
A360 (l'Assassino)
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Anthony
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A360 (l'Assassino)
AXE 340
Scorpyd DS (w/AeroCrank AD)
GRZ2
G1-NM335(On loan)
ZS,Ex
Spits
Vixenmaster Strings
Re: FLETCHING ADVICE NEEDED
ez fletch and blazers is all i use , glue is bluglue, put a drop on each end and one drop in the middle of the blazer then use a toothpick to spread it is how i do it(advice from members) because its whats easiest for me. others apply glue before putting the vane in the jig. also read on here about a gorilla glue thats available with a brush applicator that works well.......good luckCT.HNTR wrote: ↑Sat Jul 06, 2019 11:32 amGetting ready to build some bolts with an Arizona EZ-Fletch and was looking for some advice regarding adhesives. What type of adhesive works best and has anybody developed any tricks or techniques for evenly applying it to the vanes without apply too much?
I use Blazer vanes and in the past have used Gorilla blue cap glue, which is impact-modified cyanoacrylate. This glue seems to work very well but I struggle to apply it evenly in small amounts to the mounting face of the vanes.
I would appreciate any tips or advice?
IN GOD WE TRUST
Jeff
animals are killed, crops are harvesteD
REVX
matrix 355
BE executioners and zombies, w/110 brass
SWAT BROADHEADS
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Jeff
animals are killed, crops are harvesteD
REVX
matrix 355
BE executioners and zombies, w/110 brass
SWAT BROADHEADS
Boo string
Dagriz knife
Re: FLETCHING ADVICE NEEDED
I use the blue top Gorilla Glue as well. A tooth pick works well. The whole base does not need to be full. Dragging a tooth pick ensures that the little valley is full which is the important part and it also makes sure the whole base has been coated. Some guys use a hypodermic needle with a large tip and you can use a combination of a tooth pick and the hypodermic needle. You'll have to experiment to get it right.
Don't worry about using too much, it's better than too little. Excess glue can be removed by a Q-Tip or a cotton make-up pad by swiping towards the nock end after the glue has set for 15 minutes or so. Follow up with a pad soaked in acetone. Your fletching tool can be easily cleaned by sitting in acetone for a few hours or days. Acetone will not hurt the tool.
Speaking of acetone, clean your shafts in it. Dip the shaft in acetone and use a paper towel to remove it. Squeeze and twist the shaft as you pull. A squeaky noise tells you all foreign material has been cleaned off. Acetone will rip just about any finish off a floor or table, so if you like who your married to, choose where you fletch wisely. Cyanoacrylate glue fumes will filter right through several layers of paper towel and will frost a table top finish.
Are you 100% on installing your front inserts?
Don't worry about using too much, it's better than too little. Excess glue can be removed by a Q-Tip or a cotton make-up pad by swiping towards the nock end after the glue has set for 15 minutes or so. Follow up with a pad soaked in acetone. Your fletching tool can be easily cleaned by sitting in acetone for a few hours or days. Acetone will not hurt the tool.
Speaking of acetone, clean your shafts in it. Dip the shaft in acetone and use a paper towel to remove it. Squeeze and twist the shaft as you pull. A squeaky noise tells you all foreign material has been cleaned off. Acetone will rip just about any finish off a floor or table, so if you like who your married to, choose where you fletch wisely. Cyanoacrylate glue fumes will filter right through several layers of paper towel and will frost a table top finish.
Are you 100% on installing your front inserts?
Some people just like stepping on rakes
Re: FLETCHING ADVICE NEEDED
Thanks for the advice everyone. Yes some advice on the front inserts would also be appreciated. I use the same blue top Gorilla glue. I usually run the glue all along the inside diameter of the shaft a full 360 degrees and then slide the insert down inside. The problem I run into using this method is if I apply too much glue it gets up into the threads of the insert and then I need to clean them out with a tap which is a pain.
Any front insert advice is certainly appreciated!!!
Any front insert advice is certainly appreciated!!!
Matrix Bulldog 440
BOO Custom Strings
Vortex Crossfire II
18 Inch Zombies with 110 Grain Brass Inserts
125 Grain Slick tricks
2 Inch Blazer Vanes with Right Helical
BOO Custom Strings
Vortex Crossfire II
18 Inch Zombies with 110 Grain Brass Inserts
125 Grain Slick tricks
2 Inch Blazer Vanes with Right Helical
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Re: FLETCHING ADVICE NEEDED
Doing inserts is easy I use an arrow Squaring tool on the front and back of the shaft.
https://lumenok.com/products/f-a-s-t-fletched-arrow-squaring-tool
Then I only use low temp hot melt for the inserts put a ring of glue at the bottom end of the insert then twist the insert as you push it in to even out the hot melt then dip in cool water and scrap off the extra hot melt, the hot melt allows removal if the inserts if you need to down the line .
I then square the front and rear inserts .
The rear inserts are normally just pressure fitted in depending on what your set up is but some require adhesive and the low temp hot melt is the way to go their also.
https://lumenok.com/products/f-a-s-t-fletched-arrow-squaring-tool
Then I only use low temp hot melt for the inserts put a ring of glue at the bottom end of the insert then twist the insert as you push it in to even out the hot melt then dip in cool water and scrap off the extra hot melt, the hot melt allows removal if the inserts if you need to down the line .
I then square the front and rear inserts .
The rear inserts are normally just pressure fitted in depending on what your set up is but some require adhesive and the low temp hot melt is the way to go their also.
Hunt eat sleep repeat.
Re: FLETCHING ADVICE NEEDED
I rough up the inserts between 2 axe files (lightly). I let them sit in acetone for a few hours and them dry them on a paper towel. I run a 30 cal bore brush in the shaft (lots of crud comes out). I dunk the shaft in acetone 4" or more and shake out the acetone at least twice. Once anything is washed in acetone, it drys until I can't smell it anymore (usually a few hours) and I don't touch it with my fingers.
I run a bead of glue on the inside mouth of the shaft. With a target tip screwed in to hold the insert, I run a bead on the corner of the end of the insert and then squiggle the glue all over the body of the insert making sure that the grooves are full. I insert the insert with a twist. When inserting if you don't have a bead of glue rolling on the front edge of the shaft, there isn't enough glue. I then smack the insert into a block of wood or plastic to ensure complete seating. Wipe off excess and leave it insert down for at least 12 hours.
Most cyanoacrylate glues take a day to set completely. Some glues like Firenock's AGO600 (for fletchings) are almost instant. You can't use AO600 unless you use a horizontal jig because the glue is so fluid. When the glued vane touches the shaft, it's done.
I run a bead of glue on the inside mouth of the shaft. With a target tip screwed in to hold the insert, I run a bead on the corner of the end of the insert and then squiggle the glue all over the body of the insert making sure that the grooves are full. I insert the insert with a twist. When inserting if you don't have a bead of glue rolling on the front edge of the shaft, there isn't enough glue. I then smack the insert into a block of wood or plastic to ensure complete seating. Wipe off excess and leave it insert down for at least 12 hours.
Most cyanoacrylate glues take a day to set completely. Some glues like Firenock's AGO600 (for fletchings) are almost instant. You can't use AO600 unless you use a horizontal jig because the glue is so fluid. When the glued vane touches the shaft, it's done.
Some people just like stepping on rakes
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Re: FLETCHING ADVICE NEEDED
I use to use Gorilla glue but switched to Loctite Gel in the blue cap. I found out I can apply the Loctite gel very easily. I have found out that cleaning the jig on the Arizona Easy Fletch with some type Acetone cleaner when you're done will make your jig work better in the future when you decide to use it again. Good luck with your arrow building.
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