Proflight 16.5 arrows
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Proflight 16.5 arrows
Hi, I am a newbie on this forum.
I just bought a box of 6 proflight arrows 16'5 for my Excalibur 360td. These came equipped with the RHINO knocks. I want to use 3 of these arrows to replace the Rhino knock with Lumenok lighted knocks. Does anyone know how to remove the rhino knocks without damaging the arrow and prerare the arrow to receive GTF lumenok insert. ? Thank you
I just bought a box of 6 proflight arrows 16'5 for my Excalibur 360td. These came equipped with the RHINO knocks. I want to use 3 of these arrows to replace the Rhino knock with Lumenok lighted knocks. Does anyone know how to remove the rhino knocks without damaging the arrow and prerare the arrow to receive GTF lumenok insert. ? Thank you
- AJ01
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Re: Proflight 16.5 arrows
I don't know if the nocks are glued in or not on the Pro's. If they are not, then simply take a small brass or steel rod, insert it thru the hole in the front insert (where the broadhead screws in) and drive the nock out that way.
“Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming "Wow, What a Ride!
Re: Proflight 16.5 arrows
Go back to the dealer and trade them in for the factory built Black Eagle Arrows and then just pop the Lumenoks in. It is possible to damage the carbon shaft when you remove the glued in nocks. Some guys heat the nocks a little at a time when pulling on the nocks. You could easily damage the shaft if you overheat. I've read where others have froze them with canned air from the inside and then smacked the nocks. The theory being that the nock shrinks more than the shaft and makes the glue brittle. I'm pretty sure that option number 1 is the best. You'll end up with a heavier brass insert with better FOC and can add additional weight to the back side of the front insert as well.
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Re: Proflight 16.5 arrows
Thank you guys appreciate the feedback
Re: Proflight 16.5 arrows
X2 on buying factory arrows.Boo wrote: ↑Mon Nov 14, 2022 9:44 amGo back to the dealer and trade them in for the factory built Black Eagle Arrows and then just pop the Lumenoks in. It is possible to damage the carbon shaft when you remove the glued in nocks. Some guys heat the nocks a little at a time when pulling on the nocks. You could easily damage the shaft if you overheat. I've read where others have froze them with canned air from the inside and then smacked the nocks. The theory being that the nock shrinks more than the shaft and makes the glue brittle. I'm pretty sure that option number 1 is the best. You'll end up with a heavier brass insert with better FOC and can add additional weight to the back side of the front insert as well.
I have removed nocks from a BE excalibur arrow once, and it was a nightmare. They use a much stronger adhesive than Easton ever did and you will most definatly damage the carbon if you apply heat.
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Re: Proflight 16.5 arrows
I've removed the factory nocks from quite a few Black Eagle arrows, both Zombies and Executioners. None of them have been glued. The long end of a metal coat hanger works well. Just cut the bottom wire from the hanger and (with no tip installed) pop the nock from the inside a couple of times. They have always come right off for me.
axiom
350 SE
350 SE
Re: Proflight 16.5 arrows
Factory black eagle or proflight?grouse wrote: ↑Mon Nov 14, 2022 2:28 pmI've removed the factory nocks from quite a few Black Eagle arrows, both Zombies and Executioners. None of them have been glued. The long end of a metal coat hanger works well. Just cut the bottom wire from the hanger and (with no tip installed) pop the nock from the inside a couple of times. They have always come right off for me.
BE are plastic friction fit, not glued. Every proflight I've ever handled was most definitely glued.
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Re: Proflight 16.5 arrows
I didn't think you were talking about proflights since your post referenced BE Excaliburs, which I assumed were some kind of Black Eagle arrow.janesy wrote: ↑Tue Nov 15, 2022 5:09 pmFactory black eagle or proflight?grouse wrote: ↑Mon Nov 14, 2022 2:28 pmI've removed the factory nocks from quite a few Black Eagle arrows, both Zombies and Executioners. None of them have been glued. The long end of a metal coat hanger works well. Just cut the bottom wire from the hanger and (with no tip installed) pop the nock from the inside a couple of times. They have always come right off for me.
BE are plastic friction fit, not glued. Every proflight I've ever handled was most definitely glued.
axiom
350 SE
350 SE
- AJ01
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Re: Proflight 16.5 arrows
Chris, it's nice to see someone cleared up that fact on the Pro's. I thought they were like others and just a "push fit" not glued. I've never owned any, so I didn't know for sure.janesy wrote: ↑Tue Nov 15, 2022 5:09 pmFactory black eagle or proflight?grouse wrote: ↑Mon Nov 14, 2022 2:28 pmI've removed the factory nocks from quite a few Black Eagle arrows, both Zombies and Executioners. None of them have been glued. The long end of a metal coat hanger works well. Just cut the bottom wire from the hanger and (with no tip installed) pop the nock from the inside a couple of times. They have always come right off for me.
BE are plastic friction fit, not glued. Every proflight I've ever handled was most definitely glued.
Perhaps that will clear up some questions for other Forum members.
Nice job!!
“Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming "Wow, What a Ride!
Re: Proflight 16.5 arrows
Ya I guess I should have called them proflights, my bad. I called them excaliburs just because they have 4 different arrow configurations, now 8 if you count the rhino nock arrows vs the old standard aluminum flat nock as their own, made by Black Eagle.grouse wrote: ↑Tue Nov 15, 2022 9:23 pmI didn't think you were talking about proflights since your post referenced BE Excaliburs, which I assumed were some kind of Black Eagle arrow.janesy wrote: ↑Tue Nov 15, 2022 5:09 pmFactory black eagle or proflight?grouse wrote: ↑Mon Nov 14, 2022 2:28 pmI've removed the factory nocks from quite a few Black Eagle arrows, both Zombies and Executioners. None of them have been glued. The long end of a metal coat hanger works well. Just cut the bottom wire from the hanger and (with no tip installed) pop the nock from the inside a couple of times. They have always come right off for me.
BE are plastic friction fit, not glued. Every proflight I've ever handled was most definitely glued.
Either way, whatever model on black eagle factory excalibur arrow is, in my opinion, not worth removing the nock. It's doable, but not a reliably safe method. Easton, no problem.
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Re: Proflight 16.5 arrows
Andy I have to admit I have never tried to remove a Rhino nock. But given the job they are engineered to do, I'd be dumbfounded if they could be easily removed. If they were not glued, they would pull out all the time and stay in the trigger box. It would literally turn your crossbow a loaded gun.AJ01 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 16, 2022 9:48 amChris, it's nice to see someone cleared up that fact on the Pro's. I thought they were like others and just a "push fit" not glued. I've never owned any, so I didn't know for sure.janesy wrote: ↑Tue Nov 15, 2022 5:09 pmFactory black eagle or proflight?grouse wrote: ↑Mon Nov 14, 2022 2:28 pmI've removed the factory nocks from quite a few Black Eagle arrows, both Zombies and Executioners. None of them have been glued. The long end of a metal coat hanger works well. Just cut the bottom wire from the hanger and (with no tip installed) pop the nock from the inside a couple of times. They have always come right off for me.
BE are plastic friction fit, not glued. Every proflight I've ever handled was most definitely glued.
Perhaps that will clear up some questions for other Forum members.
Nice job!!
Blackout BD-Axe "Hatchet340"
Suppressor 400TD
Assassin 400Extreme
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- AJ01
- Posts: 2499
- Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2017 10:09 am
- Location: Deep in the Heart of the East Texas Piney Woods!
Re: Proflight 16.5 arrows
Good point Chris. I'm sure they are glued and glued very well at that!janesy wrote: ↑Wed Nov 16, 2022 5:31 pmAndy I have to admit I have never tried to remove a Rhino nock. But given the job they are engineered to do, I'd be dumbfounded if they could be easily removed. If they were not glued, they would pull out all the time and stay in the trigger box. It would literally turn your crossbow a loaded gun.
Thank you for the input.
“Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming "Wow, What a Ride!
Re: Proflight 16.5 arrows
Yes, they are certainly glued. I removed the rhino nocks and inserts from the ProFlight arrows that came with my Micro 380 so I could add brass up front and Lumenoks for use on a different bow. I added just enough heat to a field tip to get the glue to budge. It wasn't as hard to do as with some previous arrows I've struggled with, but it could be that I've just had more practice. I agree that the best option would be to NOT remove them because there certainly is the opportunity a mess up a shaft in a number of ways. It's real easy to put a hairline crack in a shaft which could effectively ruin it.
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